so just said F it and bought brand new DW1000s for 609 shipped. if anyone has a stage1-2 fuel return system they wanna let go of ill take it :-) thats all thats left. Also if anyone wants some DW600s with less that 2k miles on em hit me up. cheap also have a walbro 255 installed in basket for sale :-)

 

just make your own return system. comes out to be the same price and everything can be routed exactly to your car.

very easy to assemble.

 

+1
Racer parts wholesale. Aeroquip socketless hose/fittings. Fpr of your choice. A bit of drilling and you're done. Just look up fuel return for rsx or something on google... Tons of guys out there have made fuel return systems for various oem buckets (with upgraded pump). You can see the various ways they seal up the tank again.

 

so it looks like i made a cardinal mistake. installed the rear main seal on engine stand. go into garage and check under car. oil. get under car. oil right where the tranny meets the motor. do some research n sounds like most first time engine builders have ran into same issue? pulling motor back out this weekend to replace it or see if i lipped it or what the deal is.. any tips from you pros? also looks like i didnt use enough rtv from what i read you really gotta coat it. so live and learn. motor will be back out n in hopefully this weekend. in good news i did put her first 60 city miles on the motor already :-)

 

ill look into this. my knowledge of the return system are slim. it already has a AAM basic return system with the FPR a small line back to the tank (i think) then a SS line from the FPR to the drivers fuel rail. not sure how much more is required i know the feed line is a big deal also the fuel pump and basket i just got from 006 has the return line h/w on the basket i believe ill look into this more before throwing 1k at CJM

 

Any updates? Did you swap the motor back in?

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/9163472406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/9163472406/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/j-franco/, on Flickr

sure did second time around was cake work :-) 2 hrs to get motor fully out the car. got her a new nissan rear main properly sealed and seated correctly sealed up and back in car. already back on the road and driving great

if you have instagram follow me @JFrancophotography and check out my lil video i make of her while i burped coolant. can really hear the idle lope

 

question: for those of you who are also running a oil pan spacer and and fairly large oil cooler. how many qts of oil did you/do you use? went with 6.3 qts as of now( 5 quarts stock+ 1 quart pan spacer+.3 qts cooler) i think to get her to the fill line i will need a little more (its impossible to see oil on dipstick. it is literally clear but it appears to be just slightly over half way up the dipstick. im thinking 6.6 ish should be good. anyone else? i figure some is always in the cooler some always in the blower and some always creaping around motor.

 

Nice Shot, Car Look Good.......

 

thanks man!

 

That's a badass picture!

How much longer until you get to the break in point? I am antsy to get ya tuned up and see what you are putting down... I know you can't get your foot into it yet but how does she 'feel'?

 

Thanks man, it feels good, strong. The blower somehow sounds slightly diff with the diff impeller (that or its been so long since I heard it last) it feels like it wants to go when I get to 3k and shift and as far as how much longer, I am about 100 miles into my 750 mile break in

 

I'm sure the blower may sound a bit different with the more fins and different configuration, which pulley are you running with it, 3.12?

I keep looking at that SSV and remembering her, thinking.... she used to be in my car! (lol) ... Getting all nostalgic.

 

2.87 pulley. And thanks again man sure does pop out under the hood w the polished/black look

 

You should be able to replace the RMS if you remove the transmission, and clutch. IMHO, it's easier as you don't need a cherry picker.

 

true. i just pulled motor out and swaped it out then back in.

 

update: motor has 300 miles on her now and no more rear main seal leak or any other issue

dropped oil once again at 300 for ***** n giggles and everything looks great.

still havent got an answer on how much oil is ok. seems like with such a large oil cooler i can hold around 6.5-7 qts. and still be below the full line. is this ok? over working the oil pump ( just asking have no idea about this) will having this much oil moving threw the system be a bad thing? anyways. everything is well

 

Use the Stock Dip Stick, and fill it to the middle or top of the except able Level Area on the Stick.

It dose not matter how much oil, 6 qts, or 10 qts, it's the Level of the Oil. That's why you should use the Stock Level.

The Idea is with an Oil Cooler, you get additional cooling with the Cooler and with the extra Volume of oil. It's a 2 fold win/ win.

If you add a deep pan you inhanse the cooling even more, and protect the motor from ever sucking air.

Do you have a Deep Pan?

I'm not speculating, I'm giving you the Right Answer.........

 

What I wanted To hear thanks Man! I have a large oil cooler and a pan spacer.

 

How's it running after a few weeks now?