Max, looks like I will have to wait another week to give you EGT readings. I am out of town until Feb 3rd and the car is still in the shop. I will get them to you as soon as I get back.

 

This is just what I was looking for, great answers to my questions. Now, if the turbo is intercooled, there will be far less heat issues. Also, even though the SC would cause less strain cause it is at max boost for a lot shorter period of time, it should be noted that the turbo is making a lot more HP.

Like you said, SVT, you can't get anyway with a whole lot more psi with an SC over a turbo, but it does seem like you should be able to get away with 1-2 more psi. I think of it like a car speaker, it can handle more power at the peak, but it can only handle a lot less on a constant basis.

I know what denotation is, but what does it sound like?? Also, when you decrease timing, what is really going on in the power and exhaust stroke in the combustion chamber??

 

Boost is Boost. If a blower is making 9psi and a turbo is making 9psi, the only one that will be making more power is the one that has the cooler discharge temp. Example my buddies Turbo car makes about 28psi of boost. It has a water to air intercooler. He was wondering why his car didn't go any fast when he went from 24psi to 28 psi. After a lot of debate I asked him if he ever took a discharge temp reading. He said no, so we decided to do so. At 24psi the temp comming into the intercooler was about 200 degrees cooler then at 28psi. The compressor was sooooo out of it's range it was just pumping loads of heat into the motor. Thank goodness he had the air to water intercooler.

Quote:

I know what denotation is, but what does it sound like??

They call it "Pinging" for a reason. That is a good way to describe it.

Quote:

Also, when you decrease timing, what is really going on in the power and exhaust stroke in the combustion chamber??

This one will take a long time to describe. But basically since RPM is increasing the parts are moving up and down faster, and faster and faster. Well Gas only burns so fast, not matter what you do to it. So there becomes a point where parts are going so fast. If the spark was to happen at 7000 RPM as it did at 1000 RPM. The piston would already be on it's way down before all the fuel was burned. So what you are trying to do is get the spark to happen earlier so that the fuel can burn as much as possible durring the correct point of the power cycle. But if you get it to early, it trys to shove the piston back the direction it came from. The rest of the pistons won't let that happen, so something has to give right. That is when you here the PING or RATTLE or whatever you wanna call it.

That is it all in a nutshell, or something.
EA

PS: and yes as Elektric has pointed out, becarfull of the voltage ratings of pumps. They are there for a reason, but like the matrix says. "Rules can be bent"

 

Yes, I know boost is boost, but the point I was making is that the power curve is totally different for an SC to a turbo. The turbo is at max boost at like 3-4K rpms, while the SC doesn't get there til redline. This leads to more power under the power curve of a turbo.

28 psi?!?!?!?! Wow.

 

I bet the oil would get hotter and the engine in general on a turbo. I had a turbo it was a Mitsubishi (Mitsubishi makes GReddy) and you were supposed to let it cool off a couple minutes before shutting the engine down (old school) the Turbo burned out pretty quick but I bought the car used.

I think cold air coming in would have to be a cooler setup (SCer) but then again I am biased and at a high boost level.

 

sorry it took so long... here is a screenshot of a moderately hard run... took off easy in first, then got on it starting on second... boosted all the way to about 4000 in fourth.

boost was around 8lbs, egts never got to 600 C.

michael

 

the highest line values for EGTs are 588 and 592... which are the max values reached, as these graphs are scaled.

and i meant 4000rpm in 6th!!!! doh!

 

SKiDaZZLe,

What is the highest fuel pressure you've seen?

Also, what system is that?

Thanks.

 

That's some awesome sotware, I see 300=400 around town and 700 when on it not even as high as just before 800 but the alarm is set for 825 and hasn't went off since dropping to 9 PSI and the probe is post header pre car driver side bank on a stocjk fuel pump for now. My A/F on a WOT Duno run was from 11.2 to 12 max at 6600 rpm's.

 

yo 12sec...........soon I will be needing one of those nice avatars you have.........

 

i NEeD a NEW KEY BOARD .. **

LOL

I hate reading my posts later and seeing the typos but hey that's me a quart low ;-)

 

That's the software from the Techedge Wideband O2 sensor. Not only is it a wideband O2 sensor, but it can graph and log lots of other different things. SKiDaZZLe put together a group buy on the kit here on my350z.com. I've been running that unit and software for about 6 months now. Nothing but good stuff to say about it.

 

How much?

 

7057 Kits (need to get 7057 sensor from 1stvwparts.com or other place):
With display, no sensor:
2.6m = $390
4.0m = $400
Without display, no sensor:
2.6m = $270
4.0m = $280

I got the kit for the 7057 sensor with the 2.6meter cable. It's the one for $390. The group buy will knock 5%/10%/15% off of that, depending on how many people participate.

I paid $38 for my sensor at the local VW/Audi dealership because I didn't want to wait for shipping from 1stvwparts.com


So, that's

$390 minus whatever percentage on the group buy.
$35 shipping
~$30 for the sensor

Techedge Wideband O2 group buy

It really is the most bang for your buck wideband kit available. It'll be pretty hard to beat that price for any wideband.

 

Interested in the logging unit.
Question, I have an EGT Bung pre cat. Will this bung become useless and need to be converted to an 02 simulator or can the port header pree bung EGT probe be used with this?

This would make me buy it if so because the bung is already in place. Borla headers into 02 sensored car pipe (RT) yha goes to a GReddy EGT. I can sell the guage but woulkd worry about redoing the bung.

 

You can use your existing EGT thermocouple with this, as long as it is a K-type which I'm sure it probably is. I would suggest having another O2 bung welded into the precat pipe for the wideband sensor. You can remove one of the stock O2 sensors and replace it with a wideband sensor, but it's much easier just to have another bung welded in.

 

Like a narrow and wide simmulation?

 

You guys need to always consider the fact that EGTs are lowered by advanced ignition timing. A car with a NA timing map, like ours, should show pretty low EGT readings due to the greater ammount of timing advance. Having the lowest EGT is not the goal. Having a correct one that is balanced from timing and air/fuel is the goal.

 

My timing has been retarded not advanced and my A/F is perfect I just want to monitor it as a precaution not tune it ; it's already tuned "correct."

Thanks!