I have comfortablly landed at 9-10 lbs maximum on stock internals and the car runs great. Brought it all the way back from LA (400 miles) at 11 pounds then changed the smaller pulley and landed at 9 pounds. My timing and A/F are perfect bu the fule pump is maxed out on the fuel it can provide to the 380cc injectors above 6k rpm's.

I can keep it at 7-8 or even 5 depending how I drive but a WOT from a roll is 9-10 pounds and a WOT from a dead stop is now 8-9 lbs.

I was all over the boost yesterday at different levels up to 10 lbs and felt very comfortable.

My EGT has never been over 750 even at 10 lbs but if I stay at 9 lbs it's about 700 after numerous runs.

Any idea what your EGT temps might be on your car after a long romp on the boost and then hitting 8-9 lbs?

I am trying to decide if I want to spend,
$260 Fuel Pump
$260 FPR
$150 Labor and hose/wiring

Anyone else have EGT Temps for above 8 PSI they can post?

Thanks

 

"then changed the smaller pulley"

Eh? Your turbo right?

750C is 1382F, I'm not sure about the VQ yet but that seems like a very acceptible temp. This is why I want to install my EGT before I install the greddy kit, this way I could monitor temps and try to tune my fuel to that temp once boosted. 1600F is the highest I ever go in my eclipse, it's got a cast block and aluminum head.


Anyone NA running an egt gauge?

 

Hi,

I have a supercharger. I think it is in " acceptible temp" limits too but I sure would like to see others temps at 8 or 9 pounds or even 10 pounds just to be sure as my goal as stated above is to get to the bottom of our fuel pump limits and the need for an after market FPR or better yet (hopefully) a hack that just tells our dumb stock FPR to flow more fuel when needed!

 

Max,
I talked to Skidazzle on Saturday at Jotech. He is running a 5lb mode and a 7lb mode. He is waiting to see what stock internals will handle and has decided not to be the guinea pig. My guess is, when he sees this post, he will be turning up the boost. Congrats on the success, and buy the fuel pump. You know you want it!

 

I just got back from a 9 lb ROMP! Car runs great 700 celcius!

Looking at the FSM diagram I want to change the capictor to change the speed of the motor to retain the stock pump and stock FPR but of course if someone has 600 lying around yeah I want it...

 

Then again the engines were blowing up from the timing { piston up compression down } **SNAP**


It was never a matter of PSI but one of A/F and timing. If you can get your A/F and timing down keep everything cool I think you could run 9 pounds at thr track all day and then through the week have a daily driver, heck I am living proof of that.

My engine blew BANG at 6.2 PSI pathetic in hindsite now it's fine at 10 PSI?

Timing is everything it seems but I really would like toknow if Skidazzle has an EGT and if so what his readings were at 9 10 lbs when he was running that setup for test purposes.

Tell him I made 11 PSI at Technosquare on 5 tests runs and the timing was perfect I was just lean to 13 after 5-6k so dropped it down to 9 lbs but I can make 10 if I want too!

I will follow this thread and see.

 

Max, Skidazzle does not have his EGT hooked up yet. We talked about it, and he wants to get this done soon.

I am running Skidazzle's set up, but with Greddy TT and IC instead of Garrett turbos. I will have the EGT's wired, and addressing timing via same TS flash as Skidazzle.

Car should be ready by Saturday...hopefully, as I am out of town for the week following. I will post EGT's teps at 8lbs. for you.

If I am running 700 degrees on the EGT's, we may be cranking up the boost! I have to get a TS refalsh via mail, so hopefully my timing will be good, though not as good as yours - tuned at TS. I am not ready for Fisher Speed to crack my ECU yet. Maybe after they have done a few other FI's.

 

You want a hack to make your stock pump flow more? If it dosen't have a built in voltage regulator find a low power inverter what will make ~13.5VDC into say ~18VCD, a variable one would be good so that you can tweak it to what you want. The higher the voltage the faster the pump will run, but it may also wear out quicker.

 

Couldn't you just change the value of the inline capicitor because the FPR is built in?

P.S. Thanks t32gzz I will watch for your posts!

 

I think this is a horrible idea personally.....feeding voltage that varies is the quickest way to kill an electric motor. If you want to hel the pump flow more, hardwire it, via a 30 amp elay, to the battery...this will ensure it gets ~14.6 volts as long as the car is running and should help flow a bit.

 

i agree with Adam.....increasing the voltage to the pump is definitely not the answer

it appears that changing the capacitor on the motor won't work either......after looking closer, that capacitor appears be only there to dampen the electrical noise of the motor, so changing it won't do too much

 

Moot point anyway after my talk with TS, uneeded.

Thanks guys.

 

I too would recommend hardwiring the fuel pump as well. That can help put a lot especially if the fuel pump is only getting a little over 13 Volts at high RPMs. It is a common modification in Grand Nationals since they have a 14 ga. wire running ot the fuel pump when it really needs a 12 or 10.

 

Raising the voltage to a FP is not the end of the world. There is pretty much no harm in it, and I have yet to hear of anyone PROVE that is what caused a FP failure.

Reason why when you raise the voltage to a FP in a returnless system, you have decreased the duty cycle of the pump. This is pretty much the same concept as FMU's vs. Reflash with larger injectors, In a werid way.

Since you have decreased the pumps Duty Cycle you have actaully made the pump last longer. Since you would raise the voltage only when boost is "seen" it's only going to be changing the voltage like 2% of the time you are driving. (unless you are one big lead foot)

Here here is a link to a site that already make such a device, and it works wonders. There is a "how it works" at the bottom of the page. Many people have made these devices for years and years, though this company is one of the only ones to market it, package it, and put it in a gift wrapped box so to speak. The only failures I have ever heard of these boxes is usually realted to a poor install


*NOTE* I state this info as a educated guess that the FP regualtor in the tank of the 350Z works just like that in a Mustang, or Corvette, and other cars. It may not, though this is still worth looking into.

Well anyways Enjoy the read.
http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm


my .02,
EA

 

Max, you should PM skidazzle.

 

Will do Mike, SVT thanks for the link.

I remember something about my SARD in the paperwork (Japanese) stating the pump could run all the way up to 16 volts for 600 HP or something. I was just wondering if our fixed FPR could be hacked to flow more but then I found out my car was flashed for 9 lbs and 9 lbs is where I want to be, I also know Tadishi tends to stay on the rich side so if he says 9 is safe then I think I just need to drop one pound of boost (pulley swap) I am currently at 10 pounds.

 

Well, I have a couple of questions. In theory, since the SC doesn't get to max boost til redline and the turbo can be at max boost at 3K rpm, won't the turbo put your engine under more stress at that max boost rating?? Meaning, that running 10psi of boost on a turbo from 3-6.6K is a lot different than 10psi at the redline for an SC, so could you run the SC at a higher boost level cause it is there for so much of a shorter period of time?? Say, running a turbo at 8psi while an SC at 10psi could be similar on the engine. Again, dusting off that engineering degree, but seems like this shouldn't be too farfetched.

Also, with all of this talk of decreasing timing and such, doesn't that decrease power?? Even if it does(which I assume it does), being able to run more boost increases power well beyond any lost in power from the timing decrease. Man, I hope this means that we can run high boost levels in the future with only a timing change. Now that would be great, and really make this engine something to deal with HP wise in the aftermarket.

 

Sounds like you have everything right as far as Turbo Vs. SCer to me! Timing yeah you wouldn't retard it on N/A you would advance it and gain power but if you advance it on FI BOOM so we retard it like you said 58% gain above my highest N/A Dyno plus it's safer.

As for max boost at redline, Mine just drops in at WOT, I have never been near my redline, but I have made 10 lbs at 5k.

I have an A5T though, I think it's how you drive in an A5T, I can creep it up or just instant on depending on the throttle.

They say it's not good to "fether the throttle" and after boost guage watching for awhile I understand now. If you go back and reread some of that original ATI letter it has good info in it about timing and fuel and driving, I read it yesterday and most of it is good info turns out.

 

just be careful to not exceed the maximum voltage and maximum current ratings for the pump

 

yes a turbo does put a lot more strain on a motor, durring peak TQ. And since the TQ curve is a bit flatter, and longer then a SC it is harder. That doesn't mean it is bad, but it does create more heat in the combustion chamber for a longer period of time.

Quote:

Meaning, that running 10psi of boost on a turbo from 3-6.6K is a lot different than 10psi at the redline for an SC, so could you run the SC at a higher boost level cause it is there for so much of a shorter period of time?? Say, running a turbo at 8psi while an SC at 10psi could be similar on the engine.

You still have factors of Compression ratio, fuel delievery, and timing. So that isn't really possible. techincally speaking since the temps in the combustion chamber are less, you might get away with a bit more....buuuuuuuuut it isn't like multiple pounds. Though that is more related also to compressor efficiencies in regards to intake temp per psi of boost. The lesser temp the more timing, the safer, the more power.

Quote:

Also, with all of this talk of decreasing timing and such, doesn't that decrease power??

Yes and no. If a car detonating that means the combustion is happening on the upstroke of the piston. The is SLOWing the piston down, thus drastically decreasing HP. Not all detonation is audiable to the ear, some you can't ever hear. So there are times when you take a few degrees of timing out of a car, and pick up like 15-20Hp. reason why is because there was just a touch of detonation that you didn't even know about, and now the piston is traveling freely up the bore.

Quote:

Even if it does(which I assume it does), being able to run more boost increases power well beyond any lost in power from the timing decrease.

It's all about finding that happy medium.

my .02
EA