Well it has been a while since I have posted here. I am looking for some advice maybe another option to my current setup. I have had the powerlab kit going on three and a half years now running the utech. Needless to say ive been unhappy with its performance from day one. The transition between emc and utech is too noticable. I know a good tuner could work out the kinks bit I just don't trust the people I've come into contact with so far to tu e it.

What options are there? or do you think I should stick with the utec.

 

I'm using ProEFI for my powerlab kit. The install wasn't hard, and it has a lot of great features. I know a few guys in my area that use or have used ProEFI on their Z's, with great success. Granted, ProEFI is local to me...so, that always helps. If they have a dealer near you, you should check them out. Plus, there is a great deal on a used Pro 128 setup in the marketplace of the forum.

 

There is also UpRev. It's a reflash and a lot of owners use it as well.

www.uprev.com

There is also Haltech Standalone or the Haltech ECU.

www.haltech.com

Anyone of the above mentioned EMS's will get you where you need to go. It's all a matter of cost and options...i.e. gauges...etc.

 

An experienced UTEC tuner can work out most of the kinks. Both of my UTEC's only have a slight kink coming OUT of boost, but no noticeable transition going into boost so it's hardly an issue. Uprev is good but you need an experienced Uprev FI tuner to get it running well... it's not straight forward like the common standalones like Haltech. Haltech would be your 'best' option IMO.

 

Looks like I'm back to square one. I need to find a good tuner. Any ideas for tuners in south florida?

 

I'm here in SFL... PM me your info and we can talk about your options... you can even see how my car is setup and running after being tuned correctly.

BP Kit running with UpRev tuned by John @ Z1 Motorsport. Would't tune with anyone local no matter what route you decide to take.

 

IMO, UpRev custom tune. I would spend the extra effort and money to take it to a reputable Z tuner. S and R Performance located in Tampa is a certified UpRev tuner and they do GREAT work. Even have their own turbo kit for the 350Z. I'd contact them.

 

MAF tunes are simply not the best for turbo applications... They're fine for NA and S/C, just like Alpha N... Speed Density/MAP based tuning is always preferred for a reason on turbo cars.

OP go with the new full replacement Haltech. Or a Pro Efi 128.

 

^^ His existing UTEC is speed density/MAP. I still think he should just get that properly tuned. I had a UTEC on the G (caused random codes so I switched to Uprev) and currently have one on the Z (125k total, 70k boosted with the UTEC so far) and it actually works great - no codes, tune issues, or anything.

 

I seriously considered running the UTEC at one point, but decided to just go for the 'real thing' right out the gate and not waste any time lol. I think it's probably the most underrated option. What's weird is years ago it was one of the best options below the haltech price wise. I don't remember all these problems with it back then... But then again maybe I missed those threads?

Definitely worth trying to get a good tune on the UTEC. Should be pretty easy to get correct.

 

Given my own build and the number of other similar turbo setups that have been optimally tuned by TopSpeed / Z1Motorsports and National Speed through UpRev, I'm going to say I have to disagree. (I know your a Dynosty fan so I understand your POV.) I've heard good things of Haltech. But there isn't one instance I've heard of someone being unhappy with a UpRev custom tune with their FI setup. Maf has the ability to adjust itself to the conditions. I'm under the impression the SD is a fixed setting, so any change in environmental conditions is going to change the amount of air going into the motor. Ipso facto, you take your car to a different elevation, you better be careful because your wideband may be F'ed. I don't see how an UpRev Osiris custom tune, customize by a creditable tuner, tuned specifically for your goals and setup could be not preferred.

 

Uprev is not an appropriate choice for a boosted factory NA car. Any EMS can be used when the car is running properly. Heck you can just run a rising rate FMU and not even touch the tune and be ok. Something goes wrong (overboost, fuel pressure drop, lean condition, oil pressure drop, coolant overheat, bad gas, etc etc) there is nothing that Uprev will do to save your motor.

There are more than a few cars that have popped while on a Uprev tune because the lack of failsafes.

I cant even fathom how someone can justify a 7000$ turbo kit, $2000 in fuel and other supporting mods, couple grand in wheels/tires and other worthless crap, and consider a $2000 EMS unnecessary.

The ECU replacement Haltech is the best option on the market today. Tuners are easy to come by, they have good technical support, huge user base, their tuning software is very well laid out.

That said, I also started with a UTEC, found it a very user friendly ems with alot of features. It was simple to tune and with very good results. I'd say 95% of the time it felt like stock and it has critical failsafes.

You have some of the best tuners in the world to chose from in Florida. Alpha from Induction Performance, Errol from TPS, Darin D from Titan are just 3 off the top of my head that people ship cars from all over the country to. Any of those guys could sort out your UTEC perfectly.

 

Guys the input has been great. I've come to the conclusion that a competant tuner is a must I think what ever platform that person is most comfortable working with would he best. I want to keep this within budget haltech is pretty pricey I'm seeing that upwards of 2700 including the tuning. he car is going to stay in Florida so elevation really is not an issue but I see your point about the MAF being able to adjust itself. Utec seems like it can still be a viable option. I am going to focus on find a tuner for now..ill update you guys with results. Initially the car put down 426 @ 9 psi on the original tune and that was.40k miles ago with the utec. Thanks again for Tue input

 

40,000 miles with 426 whp at 9psi on a DE??? Sounds f-ing stout to me. Sounds like your just getting greedy now.

I'd be afraid to go over 400 on a DE, there just seems like too many variables with those engines. What's your torque number?

 

DEs are good for 450-475rwhp all day, just have to tune it right

 

Except Speed Density automatically adjusts to any boost level and concurrently any kind of air situation BETTER than MAF under manifold pressure. Speed density takes a quarter the time of MAF to tune.

MAF has some serious downfalls. Mainly in the safety of a boosted car. The stock ecu has no safety features that I feel are necessary for a boosted car. For example (a more advanced example), I have an AEM water meth failsafe device in my car. I'm going to wire that gauge/device to the haltech and use the signal warning ground to trigger ignition retardation/a basic style limp mode if the water meth device see's low water pressure and high flow, AND low flow high pressure.
Next things like boost by speed are great tuning features to help keep your torque band smooth and flat. As you yourself stated, your power comes on like an on/off switch. Part of the downfall of this is that you don't get traction easily (on some cars even when you pedal), but the greater issue that you can tackle is a smoother torque curve will help your engine last longer. Especially on a stock block where your rods are not the strongest.
Here's a video I recommend you watch to better understand how speed density/volumetric efficiency works.


PS: The red box haltechs should be selling fairly cheap. Not THAT much more than going with up rev.

 

Good info. I will look into it. Here's a question for ya'll staying on topic with tuning. I noticed this afternoon my wideband was only in the high 10s in full boost. It was tuned to run at high 11s. Temperature is only 82 degrees. Could the temps be causing it to pull timing or retard ignition. Not sure the dynamics of that, but the car was tuned in a shop that had 100+ temps in the shop bay so I wouldn't think that'd affect it. Any ideas? This is the first I've seen it in the 10s. And there's been hotter days.

Edit: Did another pull a little later. Was sitting in the low 11s. Temperature was a little lower around 77. Not sure if there is any correlation. Was told there would be a little fluctuation.

 

Not sure why this isn't ever mentioned but another viable option is AEM Series 2.

There is a reason why I'm not mentioning the latest Infinity Standalone... lets just say the original engineer and programmer of the older versions left the company hens why this new incarnation isn't doing so well. I hope this wasn't suppose to be a secret down at AEM... if so Oops... LMAO

Back to topic, depending on your power goal and budget... there's many great ways to manage your FI setup but hands down the most important of all is the Tuner.

On the topic of power delivery... my car is Tuned by John @ Z1 Motorsport (UpRev) and the power delivery is stout and smooth as butter. Granted I am running an Electronic Boost Controller. (my opinion... a must have with UpRev Setup)

Almost forgot: About price differences... the UpRev Tune license is anywhere from $100.00 to $150.00 if that's all you want plus typical 2 hour minimum Tuning most shops require for first tune which can run anywhere from $200.00 to $300.00.

The $500.00 for UpRev is for the Cable that allows you to Diagnose your car and make minor adjustments yourself.
The $700.00 for UpRev is for the cable that allows you to do everything yourself.

Tuning shops can tune your car with Uprev by just selling you a License hens why UpRev is a great option for those on a budget not to mention it's got some great features as well. For those of you miss informed.

 

^ What features and misinformation are you talking about?

Nobody is saying that boosted UpRev cars don't run well or smoothly when properly tuned. The critical shortcoming of UpRev is that it lacks the appropriate failsafes for boosted VQ applications when something malfunctions that is not related to the tune. The truth is that UpRev is not really a great or prudent option for turbo applications on a VQ, whether "on a budget" or otherwise. It's a falsehood that unfortunately has been perpetuated by shops and vendors that offer UpRev. It's also perpetuated by satisfied yet uninformed/unknowledgable UpRev customers whose cars run "great", but haven't yet experienced (or correctly diagnosed/comprehended) a non tune related motor failure that could have otherwise been prevented or mitigated by other EMS options that adequate failsafes for boosted applications.

+1 to what Rich said about guys who don't want to pay for a proven standalone EMS like Haltech or ProEFI but don't think twice about spending over $2K on wheels/tires and cosmetic mods. I can't fathom why or how guys can justify skimping on an EMS to help protect their 5-figure FI investment.

 

So, are you saying, for example, a boost error caused by a vacuum line coming unplugged, would somehow be prevented by a Haltech? Can someone gives some more details on the failsafes and how they are prevented. I'm not one of those guys saying its a waste of money. I've just seen so many sucess stories and so many shops promote the UpRev with an FI build. That and the ease of the setup is the reason I went that route.