MAX did..His post was directed towards me not knowing what I was talking about and trying to be a sales man....Maybee I interpeted it the wrong way but I felt it was aimed at me and the ECU I am having installed..I am only trying to help with a simple and effective solution so people stop poping their blocks!!!The unit I am having installed will control everything you need it to and have the flexibility to tune it yourself as you add mods...Think of it as a TS reflash and J&S timing box all in one...Well I am tired of MAX talking **** that his car is a BEAST..Where are the DYNO sheets???

 

just a couple of things --

1. if it's not a race car, why on earth do you want to run so much boost? bragging rights? at 20 psi, your car will no longer be fun to drive, I can assure you.

2. You can count some of the gauges out no matter what. With 1000cc injectors and possibly another ECU running the car, your MPG and DTE readings will be garbage. I guess the stopwatch and elapsed time functions will still work. Running a new ECU isn't a simple task and usually requires sacrifices of some sort.

3. Every car you mentioned (Supra, EVO, Eclipse) runs boost from the factory. That's one big reason why it's easy to tune them compared to the Z. The stock ECU knows how to handle the airflow from a turbo. Additionally, they've all been around for years, and they are well-understood. The Z has been around since mid '03.

sorry if this post comes off rude.. I don't intend it to.. just trying to figure out where you're coming from. I don't know anyone running 20psi on a formerly high-compression N/A motor who had a breeze setting up their car. It's a tough task -- and the tools to do it properly on this car are not yet available.

 

They exist...https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=58572

 

Not rude at all, I am perfectly aware of what you are saying regarding those other cars. Have you driven an 800hp Viper?? Thats fun.......and a street car, come on, properly driven and tuned its no big deal, I drive a 500hp Cobra everyday. The point about those cars was in response to question about why one would have so much boost anyway, not about engine management

The whole idea here is to try and figure out how to make the car run properly, smoothly, with all the accs. working right(gauges, AC etc, I don't really give a **** about the MPG meter on the NAV sys)

It would not be much fun or entertainment if all one had to do is drop a big chunk of $$$ and drive away with a fast car. Half the fun is figuring it out. The other half is driving it

One way or the other I have almost everything in place to make this work(motor is now 8:1 cr) except the engine management which is the last peice of the puzzle. There are options out there, none I have found fit the bill perfectly right now, hence the post to try and get some input.

Robin

as to bragging rights...i don't have to compensate forl ***** size....the beauty of being a woman!!!!!

 

Hey Azrel glad to know we are on the same page. Though honestly it really isn't that bad to "over lay" a stand alone onto a car as complicated as a 350Z. Me and a friend have done a Accel GenVII onto a C5 Z06 Corvette, and still retained every aspect of the car as it came from the factory. One of my cars runs on a FAST system to run the 1100cc injectors, and all tuning dutys, and the factory ECU controls the ABS and HVAC controls, dash board, signal to fire fuel pump relays, etc. Even in the event of a crash the factory impact sensor still cuts the power to the relay that fires the TWIN Product Engineering Fuel pumps. (Nice to know incase of a collison) Airbags still work, ect.

When you over lay a stand alone into the 350Z you will be unpugging injectors and a few other sensors. The Crank trigger in most cases can be tapped into and still hooked to the factory ECU. That (in most cases) runs the trigger to allow the AC to run, and the TACH and a few other things. (It needs to know the car is running to fire the AC compressor clutch, they won't run if they think they are in a parking lot shut off with the key in the on postion.) You will need to find a Tuner that can get into the ECU (Techno Square) and see if they can just "turn off" most of the things that will throw MIL codes, and Check engine lights. As far as the computer is concernd the car is still running, but it doens't have an injector load anymore. That will make the computer run cooler since it isn't fireing injector drivers, and no heat is being created. (like running a stereo without the amp being on) With some good educated guessing, I think the only major freak out the car will have is having the Throttle body motor unplugged. But if the computer is ignoring that, it won't matter. Even if it has issues it won't be running the injectors, timming, or TB so it won't matter. The Stand alone in most cases only has a few sensors, and most don't interfer with factory stuff. Air temp sensor, water temp sensor, Throttle position sensor, and MAP sensor, and crank trigger. The trick is also to have a tuner, or yourself to take the time to make all the wiring look really really nice. The way I do it is to mock up all the wires myself, then I take it to a buddy that does custom car stereo installs. And I have him work his majic with all connections, hiding of the wires, looming, etc. It costs some money, but then you have no idea it's there.

my.02
EA

PS: 20psi or more is fun on the street. No matter what you are driving, it will be well worth the wait.

 

There are several ecu's that can control drive by wire on many cars (BMW for example)..we are in process of doing on onto our E46 Speed Cup car right now (TECIII), and it runs the drive by wire just fine (with ITB's as well), as well as using nearly all the stock sensors in the car.

Granted, such options come at a price, but given the amount already invested in the car from the sounds of it, nothing that one would consider inappropriate - all comes down to what exactly you are looking to do, and how complex you want to go.

For example, the stock Z uses high impedance injectors....far from ideal from a control standpoint. Many of the ecu's out they have their own injector and ignition drivers - as such, they don't care if you have low or high impedance injectors in there..it will happily run either (low is far easier to control, as it allows for much lower IPW numbers, making it much easier to get large injectors to idle). The better once have very good scalability, and can map a car a multitude of ways if you so desire (based on MAP alone, MAP + TPS, etc etc.)...not all ecu's can allow for this. Datalogging is a given with any good ecu out there, though some charge extra for it (Motec for example, though its not too much and its well worth it). Software and technical support tends to be the biggest deal out there....some are non existent, others are more than you could ever ask for. Most importan thing is to talk to whomever you have tuning the car (if its someone other than yourself) and see what THEY like.....any ecu out there can be made to work - you are best off using one that your tuner is used to using.

Adam

 

Hi Robin

Sorry for getting your name wrong. I was seriuos about the rear end work after all that power is done.

As for the personal attacks directed at me I will leave that up to the board Admin.

Somewhere along the line I became the focal point of ones anger based on the perception I was talking about them when I was simply trying to help you with advice with what has worked for me. Keep us updated it sounds like a great project, I am going to keep your thread on track by ignoring the jabs about me. I have no desire to be the fastest or have the highest dyno, I simply enjoy bracket racing and sharing with others what has worked well for me, and some times what hasn't. Nothing more nothing less, no bragging, all on my nickel.

 

the rear end will be a concern.......if road races can break down the viscous LSD, then surely 20 pounds of boost can also

 

Going to use a Nismo L/S

Robin