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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?

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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #21  
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If you're not gonna rebuild the engine it doesn't matter what crap kit you try to boost with. The engine will throw a rod within 500 miles if not on the dyno during the 1st tuning session. And FYI, 'highway pulls' are the hardest thing for the engine. 100kmi is pretty nuts to throw boost onto, 150kmi is just plain retarded unless you just don't give a **** and like to throw money down the drain. My advice to you is rebuild now while you still have a viable core exchange. Otherwise either stick with your 2" lowering springs OR do what you want and don't ask us for advice, but be sure to post pics of the epic fail.

Last edited by djamps; Nov 7, 2013 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by djamps
If you're not gonna rebuild the engine it doesn't matter what crap kit you try to boost with. The engine will throw a rod within 500 miles if not on the dyno during the 1st tuning session.

And 'highway pulls' are the hardest thing for the engine. That's why tuning sessions start in low gears.
So what exactly should I replace in my rebuild?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by djamps
If you're not gonna rebuild the engine it doesn't matter what crap kit you try to boost with. The engine will throw a rod within 500 miles if not on the dyno during the 1st tuning session. And FYI, 'highway pulls' are the hardest thing for the engine. 100kmi is pretty nuts to throw 400whp of boost onto, 150kmi is just plain retarded unless you just don't give a **** and like to throw money down the drain. My advice to you is Rebuild now while you still have a viable core exchange.
Jw is the VQ35DE weak compaired to most engines when it come to boost? I know guys running the old ford turbo 2.3L's like the one in my tbird at 30psi with over 200k on a stock motor, I only run 20psi on mine but its also a cast iron block with forged internals from the factory so I guess thats why we can do that haha.

FYI I'm finding 50-75k motors for $1000-1500 I may just go that route.

Last edited by noboostzcar; Nov 7, 2013 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #24  
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So first you have a Tbird with over 100kmi (first page) now it has over 200kmi? I call BS on this whole thing. I'll put money down that you don't own the Z yet and it's a tossup between selling the crapbird and buying the vette or the Z then turboing it.

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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 07:18 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by djamps
So first you have a Tbird with over 100kmi (first page) now it has over 200kmi? I call BS on this whole thing. I'll put $100 down that you don't own the Z yet and it's a tossup between selling the crapbird and buying the vette or the Z then turboing it.
No I said I know guys who do have over 200k on theirs go check turbotbird.com hell some have over 300k on them its a stout little engine and a solid car so your crapbird comment is uncalled for. Mine has 112,xxx on it to be exact by the way.

I've had my Z for two years so I don't understand where your comming from saying I don't own one? I've had the Vette for four years, I got it as a high school graduation present from my parents. I bought a Caddilac myself a few months later to keep the miles low on the Vette but got tired of the old guy stigma so I bought the Z. Money isn't an issue I could afford to spend 10K on a turbo kit for the Z. But why would I spend that much on a car that isn't prolly worth that much with the mileage I have on it? Why would I go spend 10K on a kit when I could just buy the ebay kit without the turbo and wastegate for under $1000 and then get a rebuilt Holset HX35 and good waste gate for less than 1K??? Spending 10k to make 400whp is a waste I took my Tbird from 130whp(factory) to around 300 whp for around $1500 total and that was with a stock IHI turbo,headers, ebay universal front mount intercooler kit, Mechanical boost controler, 3inch exhast/downpipe and a home made intake the only issue I ever has is that the piping could would come apart under full boost (20psi) so I got tbolt clamps and sprayed hairspray on the insides of the couplers and they never gave me an issue again.My point is you don't have to spend alot of money to make decent RWHP you just gotta know where to spend it and where not to and a turbo is one of those things you gotta dish out for. Its not like I'm a rookie to FI I've been working on turbo cars since I was 16 and I'm 23 now am I an expert? Hell no but I know my way around an engine. I figured the engine was due a rebuild but I'm not that familer with these engines so I thought I'd ask. I saw that the turbo was listed as a "authentic turbonetics turbo" and that the seller has good feedback that the turbo itself might be ok.
By the way where's my money?
Attached Thumbnails What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1150159_509749142436108_1871306362_n.jpg   What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1150867_509748675769488_573887675_n.jpg   What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-533736_509750592435963_928823833_n.jpg   What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1174767_509749145769441_1155956012_n.jpg   What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1236793_509748682436154_1539217430_n.jpg  

What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1173892_509750662435956_745503453_n.jpg   What yal think of this kit? and safe to turbo at 150k miles?-1234219_509748932436129_1354227834_n.jpg  

Last edited by noboostzcar; Nov 7, 2013 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:43 PM
  #26  
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the vq has some of the best flowing heads on any car, are retarded strong crank, damn strong sleeves for being a open deck block, great combustion chambers, and a good amount of displacement for a v6. it has weak rods, thats it we still havnt seen a broken piston outside of severe detonation so how does that make it weak? stock ls rods are pretty damn weak too minus the 5.3L and the factory boosted cars they just have 2 more to spread the load out to.
Originally Posted by noboostzcar
Jw is the VQ35DE weak compaired to most engines when it come to boost? I know guys running the old ford turbo 2.3L's like the one in my tbird at 30psi with over 200k on a stock motor, I only run 20psi on mine but its also a cast iron block with forged internals from the factory so I guess thats why we can do that haha.

FYI I'm finding 50-75k motors for $1000-1500 I may just go that route.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
the vq has some of the best flowing heads on any car, are retarded strong crank, damn strong sleeves for being a open deck block, great combustion chambers, and a good amount of displacement for a v6. it has weak rods, thats it we still havnt seen a broken piston outside of severe detonation so how does that make it weak? stock ls rods are pretty damn weak too minus the 5.3L and the factory boosted cars they just have 2 more to spread the load out to.
Hmmm guess I'll get some new rods. What would you recommend for new rods. As the way I drive it the engine and tranny will be at 170k by the time I start this build so I might aswell rebuild the engine.Though I baby my cars (which is shown by my factory clutch having 150k miles on it and its still goin strong) but the last thing I want is a rod going through my block so I'm fine with rebuilding the engine. Also would a tranny rebuild be in order?

Last edited by noboostzcar; Nov 7, 2013 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #28  
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why modify anything since apparently you have 0 interest in the hobby. people who dropped 100k into their cars or even supras arnt worth near that when they are done. same with any other car, your mods add damn near 0 you dont do it for a investment period if you are then you havnt done much with cars
Originally Posted by noboostzcar
No I said I know guys who do have over 200k on theirs go check turbotbird.com hell some have over 300k on them its a stout little engine and a solid car so your crapbird comment is uncalled for. Mine has 112,xxx on it to be exact by the way.

I've had my Z for two years so I don't understand where your comming from saying I don't own one? I've had the Vette for four years, I got it as a high school graduation present from my parents. I bought a Caddilac myself a few months later to keep the miles low on the Vette but got tired of the old guy stigma so I bought the Z. Money isn't an issue I could afford to spend 10K on a turbo kit for the Z. But why would I spend that much on a car that isn't prolly worth that much with the mileage I have on it? Why would I go spend 10K on a kit when I could just buy the ebay kit without the turbo and wastegate for under $1000 and then get a rebuilt Holset HX35 and good waste gate for less than 1K??? Spending 10k to make 400whp is a waste I took my Tbird from 130whp(factory) to around 300 whp for around $1500 total and that was with a stock IHI turbo,headers, ebay universal front mount intercooler kit, Mechanical boost controler, 3inch exhast/downpipe and a home made intake the only issue I ever has is that the piping could would come apart under full boost (20psi) so I got tbolt clamps and sprayed hairspray on the insides of the couplers and they never gave me an issue again.My point is you don't have to spend alot of money to make decent RWHP you just gotta know where to spend it and where not to and a turbo is one of those things you gotta dish out for. Its not like I'm a rookie to FI I've been working on turbo cars since I was 16 and I'm 23 now am I an expert? Hell no but I know my way around an engine. I figured the engine was due a rebuild but I'm not that familer with these engines so I thought I'd ask. I saw that the turbo was listed as a "authentic turbonetics turbo" and that the seller has good feedback that the turbo itself might be ok.
By the way where's my money?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:57 PM
  #29  
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Why not boost the vette?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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carillo, eagle, pauter. eagles are all most people need. if you want to run anything more then 500 get low compression pistons too or if you have e85 can run stock just no one knows where they will last to since no one has broken one from power.
Originally Posted by noboostzcar
Hmmm guess I'll get some new rods. What would you recommend for new rods. As the way I drive it the engine and tranny will be at 170k by the time I start this build so I might aswell rebuild the engine.Though I baby my cars (which is shown by my factory clutch having 150k miles on it and its still goin strong) but the last thing I want is a rod going through my block so I'm fine with rebuilding the engine. Also would a tranny rebuild be in order?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
carillo, eagle, pauter. eagles are all most people need. if you want to run anything more then 500 get low compression pistons too or if you have e85 can run stock just no one knows where they will last to since no one has broken one from power.
I love the hobby and at some point I will invest alot in the car but right now comming out of college I just can't justify spending 10k on a turbo kit when my power goals are pretty average.


Im thinking of switching to E85 when I turbo the car. I've googled it but can't find much for our cars on whats needed to switch to E85 beside a tune.

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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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the exact same thing as every other car retune and larger fuel system
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 07:28 AM
  #33  
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Apologies for my sarcastic comment about vehicle ownership but I wasn't making sense out of your posts, my BS flag was going up.

SO... if you're going to crack open the block there's no point in doing just rods, 90% of the labor is just getting it open. Unless ur gonna do the whole rebuild yourself (e.g. you've built many racing engines), just grab a longblock from IPP and toss it in. However the VQ is the last engine you want to learn on or test your luck on. Even experienced builders have had issues getting tolerances correct on these engines.

The other option is throwing a used stock longblock with <75k mi on it. Should be had for $1500 or so not including swap labor. But decent OEM longblocks are getting harder to find as more and more kids are blowing them up as used Z prices drop.

Last edited by djamps; Nov 8, 2013 at 07:32 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:55 AM
  #34  
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I wanna spend about $4k for a turbo kit, E85 conversion, tune, and some of the installation. plz halp wat do
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by HanoverZ
I wanna spend about $4k for a turbo kit, E85 conversion, tune, and some of the installation. plz halp wat do
What you can do is change that $4k to a $25k and you're about there
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 05:22 PM
  #36  
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if you where to buy a engine i definitely wouldnt do ipp, ive said how i feel a dozen times or more and have no problem saying it again dynosty is within a few hundred bucks and you get better pistons AND they have never had a single problem ever reported anywhere.

even if ipp only had a single engine(which they have had more just reported on this one forum and if you go on the facebook groups you will find dozens more) thats still 1 more then dynosty and means your gambling at least a little bit.

pay $2600 and play the lottery and mayby have to do it again as well as every other system attached to it. or spend 3k ish(my quote was 4900 but that included sleeves and bored/honed to 100mm) and never have to worry about it.
Originally Posted by djamps
Apologies for my sarcastic comment about vehicle ownership but I wasn't making sense out of your posts, my BS flag was going up.

SO... if you're going to crack open the block there's no point in doing just rods, 90% of the labor is just getting it open. Unless ur gonna do the whole rebuild yourself (e.g. you've built many racing engines), just grab a longblock from IPP and toss it in. However the VQ is the last engine you want to learn on or test your luck on. Even experienced builders have had issues getting tolerances correct on these engines.

The other option is throwing a used stock longblock with <75k mi on it. Should be had for $1500 or so not including swap labor. But decent OEM longblocks are getting harder to find as more and more kids are blowing them up as used Z prices drop.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:21 AM
  #37  
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Nice pics of the PPW.

If you have a good shop or know what you're doing, then build up that engine and install the kit. As long as the parts are quality or not used/broken, then build the engine carefully and methodically to get what you want. Just remember that you'll need to invest in good brakes with all that power.


Oh, and let's keep the constructive comments up and the troll comments down. If half of you guys with experience and knowledge can impart your wisdom and help someone out, now's the time to do it.

Last edited by SmoothZ; Nov 10, 2013 at 04:22 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SmoothZ
Nice pics of the PPW.

If you have a good shop or know what you're doing, then build up that engine and install the kit. As long as the parts are quality or not used/broken, then build the engine carefully and methodically to get what you want. Just remember that you'll need to invest in good brakes with all that power.


Oh, and let's keep the constructive comments up and the troll comments down. If half of you guys with experience and knowledge can impart your wisdom and help someone out, now's the time to do it.
^ Therein lies the problem. The OP is interested in the Godspeed kit, but everything about that kit is absolute garbage.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
^ Therein lies the problem. The OP is interested in the Godspeed kit, but everything about that kit is absolute garbage.
I know.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HarleyDobbs
What you can do is change that $4k to a $25k and you're about there
In case you thought I was serious, I was not lol. I've spent ~$22k on my setup and it's not even done yet (though it is close).
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