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New (Sema Nov 2013) Vortech V2 Ti-Trim Blower

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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Threads
I think OldManZ was posting discounted YSi prices. Obviously, the YSi is going to be more expensive.
gotchaa
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #62  
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i wonder if these other places are selling the Ti already.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:56 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Colombo
i wonder if these other places are selling the Ti already.
Why wouldn't they? They're not actually carrying the part in stock, they're just the middle man for payment. It still ships directly from Vortech. If Vortech has it in stock, you should be able to buy it from any Vortech dealer.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Colombo
i wonder if these other places are selling the Ti already.
I believe you can get them from Z1, i was going to get a tuner kit with this blower.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 06:12 AM
  #65  
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how to destroy a Vortech supercharger.... watch and learn haha. Just do happen to have the gopro videos of when she let go. Listen close to the last video at the top of 2nd gear.


bye bye blower
www.youtube.com
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #66  
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That sucks! Sounded good before it went tho, looks like alot of fun.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #67  
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At least it was a noticeable sound and you didn't keep running it risking your motor.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #68  
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anyone have a guess at what psi this thing should see with the 3.12....what were the t-trim guys getting? also any updates on the blower threads?
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 01:11 PM
  #69  
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got good info about mine they actually credited me much more then expected for my blown blower and it should ship at the end of next week hopefully..
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #70  
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Merry Christmas!!! You have a new blower!
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #71  
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Sounds good Johnattan…..

Looking forward to your Dyno Numbers.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Colombo
anyone have a guess at what psi this thing should see with the 3.12....what were the t-trim guys getting? also any updates on the blower threads?
I've put about 100 miles on the new blower, and I've been slowly working on the tune. I've gotten the car up to about ~4400rpms at WOT and I've seen 7psi. As OldManZ pointed out, I have belt slip. I hear the belt squeal when backing out my driveway. Once I get the car back on the stands, I'll take care of that.

Overall the car drives well. The blower is very quiet. I'm almost tempted to say that it's more quiet than my V3. When I idle around ~750rpms, I don't even hear the "clunking" sound that my V3 made with that low of the idle.

However, I've come across one issue so far. I've noticed that only under certain conditions, one bank will differ from the other bank by a significant amount. For instance, at idle, Bank 1 will read ~12.7afr and Bank 2 will read 11.0afr. I'll probably start debugging the issue with fresh spark plugs, and I'll be sending the injectors for inspection/cleaning at DW.

Last edited by Threads; Dec 13, 2013 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 04:35 AM
  #73  
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At 7 psi, how did it feel compared to your old blower?
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #74  
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How old are your injector? Why would you need to have them inspected at this point?

You Idle @ 12.7afr and 11.0afr? Should be 14.afr

What are you reading AFR's with? Logging it?

You Tune should not have changed much at all (if any) in Vacuum, under light throttle.

Tighten up that Dam Belt….

Originally Posted by Threads
I've put about 100 miles on the new blower, and I've been slowly working on the tune. I've gotten the car up to about ~4400rpms at WOT and I've seen 7psi. As OldManZ pointed out, I have belt slip. I hear the belt squeal when backing out my driveway. Once I get the car back on the stands, I'll take care of that.

Overall the car drives well. The blower is very quiet. I'm almost tempted to say that it's more quiet than my V3. When I idle around ~750rpms, I don't even hear the "clunking" sound that my V3 made with that low of the idle.

However, I've come across one issue so far. I've noticed that only under certain conditions, one bank will differ from the other bank by a significant amount. For instance, at idle, Bank 1 will read ~12.7afr and Bank 2 will read 11.0afr. I'll probably start debugging the issue with fresh spark plugs, and I'll be sending the injectors for inspection/cleaning at DW.

Last edited by OldManZ350; Dec 14, 2013 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by OldManZ350
How old are your injector? Why would you need to have them inspected at this point?

You Idle @ 12.7afr and 11.0afr? Should be 14.afr

What are you reading AFR's with? Logging it?

You Tune should not have changed much at all (if any) in Vacuum, under light throttle.

Tighten up that Dam Belt….
I would say they are about 3 years old, however, my car was down for half that time. Getting them inspected won't be my first option, but it's on my radar. I had gas sitting in the car for a while with Stabil, but I have a inclining that bad gas could be playing a part in this.

Right now, keeping it rich is the only way it'll consistently hold an idle. It's a quick fix until I can get some time to dive deeper into what's not allowing it to idle at a leaner afr.

I have a Haltech w/ dual widebands. You would think my old tune would have fired right up, but for some reason, with the new motor, the old tune was really rough, wouldn't start/idle, etc. It was just easier for me initially to start with a fresh basemap.

The only other thing I added was a fuel damper from CJM that replaces the OEM damper that their return kit deletes to help with "random" lean spots in the map. I don't believe CJM advertises those, but he went ahead and CNC'd a few of them and shipped me one.

And yes, I'll tighten the damn belt!
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 02:05 PM
  #76  
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Turns out my issues with my wideband readings were because the sensors needed to be re-calibrated. I also noticed that I forgot to move over my decel cut settings. Bringing over my old settings, the car now catches the idle without needing to be so rich. I'm now between 14-15afr at idle on both banks.

While I had the car on the stands, I went ahead and attempted to tighten the drive belt. I've maxed out the idler pulley, and I can still twist the belt with two fingers more than what I'd like to. I'm going to order a slightly smaller green-stripe belt, asap. Once I get the belt in, I should be ready to get some quality WOT pulls in. I'm really interested to see where/when I'll max out the stock fuel delivery system.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #77  
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stock fuel delivery system What?

I forgot, what is your Fuel Setup?

Originally Posted by Threads
Turns out my issues with my wideband readings were because the sensors needed to be re-calibrated. I also noticed that I forgot to move over my decel cut settings. Bringing over my old settings, the car now catches the idle without needing to be so rich. I'm now between 14-15afr at idle on both banks.

While I had the car on the stands, I went ahead and attempted to tighten the drive belt. I've maxed out the idler pulley, and I can still twist the belt with two fingers more than what I'd like to. I'm going to order a slightly smaller green-stripe belt, asap. Once I get the belt in, I should be ready to get some quality WOT pulls in. I'm really interested to see where/when I'll max out the stock fuel delivery system.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by OldManZ350
stock fuel delivery system What?

I forgot, what is your Fuel Setup?
Eh, I didn't express that right. My fuel setup is DW300, ID1000s, and CJM Stage 0. From my understanding, the DW300 and the stock fuel delivery lines and rails won't cut it for this setup.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 02:48 PM
  #79  
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You are Right!

You need a CJM Stage 2, just do it……

Charle will make you up a kit to make your stage 0 into a stage 2

You'll need to step up to a larger fuel pump too. A least a Walbro 400

So, you tryed the YSi with stage 0 and DW300 ? (YSi need Twins)



Originally Posted by Threads
Eh, I didn't express that right. My fuel setup is DW300, ID1000s, and CJM Stage 0. From my understanding, the DW300 and the stock fuel delivery lines and rails won't cut it for this setup.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 02:58 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by OldManZ350
You are Right!

You need a CJM Stage 2, just do it……

Charle will make you up a kit to make your stage 0 into a stage 2

You'll need to step up to a larger fuel pump too. A least a Walbro 400

So, you tryed the YSi with stage 0 and DW300 ? (YSi need Twins)
CJM Stage 2 has been on the radar since before the YSi build. I understood that my current fuel setup wouldn't take me where I want to go. However, I wanted to get the car running first. It's been down for too long. I was going to purchase the Stage 2 soon, but now I'll have to hold out a little longer since I used the money that would go towards the Stage 2 on the Ti... Who knows, maybe Santa will come through. lol
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