Did you have the unsprung of the sprung larger diameter disk?
Plates were offset during install?

 

The update on my OSGiken twin in my 370z, it held at 671rwhp... obviously still drove like ****.

I took it to the drag strip, and to no surprise I only got 6-7 passes out of it before it was DONE. From what I am beginning to understand, these JDM road racing clutches can handle power, but they cannot handle the abuse of drag race launches. Maybe I am wrong, but between myself and all my friends running these expensive japanese multi-disk clutches, once the power gets up there, they are always drama. Maybe its just our luck.

I doubt I will rebuild the OSG or even upgrade it to a triple... I will probably just toss it and get something american made so that I will have the proper support and communication I need. RPS maybe.

 

^wish i knew. Just drove the Z back with the OS giken and it was a PITA.


Makes me miss my southbend clutch.

 

You do get used to driving on it. I stopped minding it for the most part although starting on steep hills it would annoy me. I would have to use the hand brake to hold the car until I felt the drivetrain load.

The engagement is just so high that I swear you never really get used to that part of it... so lots of ebrake use.

 

^ this can all be fixed with the RJM clutch pedal, yes?

 

I'm trying to adjust rjm but not having much sucess. Engagement is high for sure.

So is it just supposed to be rough? I hated driving it in traffic yesterday. Absolutely sucked. But I guess I'll have to get used to it.

 

^ Mike (XKR) got the OSG after his carbonetics triple failed and he indicated the RJM really improved the driveability...

 

With the RJM Pedal the difference is like night and day.

 

^how do you have yours adjusted?

I wanted a lower engagement point...so here is how i set mine up:

Fulcrum is at the 0% like stock so that I get maximum throw of the MS push rod.
MS push rod is threaded is with at least 4-5 threads showing to lower the friction point relative to the pedal travel location.

All stops setup so that the switches do not bottom out.

 

Like the RJM instructions recommended and never need to readjust.

 

I have the exedy triple carbon and have my rjm pedal set at 85% with the rod almost full threaded out. it made engagement easier and friction point is about 1" off the ground. the rjm helped a lot. making my car pretty much unstreetable in traffic, to being able to drive in traffic; though hill starting still sucks as the clutch is still grabby and light flywheel doesn't help. RJM made a night and day difference though and was definitely worth it.

 

^thats good to hear. How did you set yours up? I want my friction point low like that (i think the way I adjusted got it much lower than before). Need to practice mostly.

I think i have rev2 of the RJM (no indicators, old fork design and a pita to remove and adjust)

Vague much? The instructions are not a end all be all setup..just guidelines.

 

To move your engagement point, you adjust the rod length, not the fulcrum adjustment on the pedal.

 

From your post above stating you have the AFP set to 0% for max throw is exactly the opposite of what you want to lower the engagement and make the clutch more daily drivable in traffic. 0% AFP on the fulcrum adjustment is the same effective feel as the factory pedal with no assist spring so you're not getting any of the positive affects of the altered fulcrum point system right now.

To get the effect of the altered fulcrum point you need to increase it from 0%(stock feel) up to around 75% which is my recommended starting point for customers with a stock clutch. Having an OSG twin you can likely go a little higher like JDM-v35 has to about 85-90%. This will give you a much greater effect from the pedal, reduce the on/off nature to where you can slip it more and will drastically lower your engagement point as others have stated down to about 1" off the floor if you wish. I'd recommend about 1.5" setup using the clutch rod to fine tune height AFTER the AFP is setup higher.

Give that a go getting the AFP into the recommended range and I'm positive your OSG will feel 100x more drivable then it is now.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

 

Sounds like I should have spent more time adjusting mine. I did get it much better, but it still sucked. But I came into it only expecting a mild improvement, so I probably sold myself short by not taking the time.

 

Phunk2, sounds like you should take another crack at it. I know multiple guys who posted reviews in other forums running the OSG Twin or Triple on their 370Z's & G37's who went straight to 100% AFP with their adjustments who claim they drive better then stock that way. So you might want to revisit the tuning section of the 370Z install guide and increase your AFP as well to gain more benefit

 

Thanks for the insight. My next step was to change the fulcrum point. Just to be clear...to increase the % value you reference you have to slide towards the end of the bracket that has two holes on it.




Yeah i have been racking my brain on the setup. The bracket is kinda a ***** to get in and out to adjust. My right side is sore from laying on the floor board. But with the current adjustment i have been more successful at driving...its just first gear that is a pain and the pedal is very very stiff.

 

^I have rev3.3 so its a bit different looking, but that looks correct in your picture. I will say that though it is a significant help, driving with the exedy triple carbon still does suck. there is still a point where it gets very grabby and will shudder due to the lightweight flywheel. IMO the rjm pedal has made driving go from unbearable to bearable, but for me engagement is not "better than stock". it is still much more difficult than my 97 maxima was with a stage 3 clutch and oem flywheel. I would definitely recommend it to anyone with a difficult clutch. Also my pushrod is maxed out and it is still at low engagement, where I would prefer high engagement. if you adjust the fulcrum your engagement point will probably drop as well.

 

Cux350z yes, you got it exactly right in that photo. Setting the AFP higher means moving the AFP slide block closer to the pivot point which increases the pedal leverage. This will not only drop your engagement height a lot it'll also make the pedal much softer as the pedals leverage over the master cylinder increases. To remove for adjustment in the older Rev2 design you can loosen the 1/2" lock nut on the pivot bolt, slide the pivot bolt out to the left side and the arm will drop out giving you more room to work. Loosen the 3 machine screws that hold the AFP slide block, adjust the slider upwards as discussed and retighten the 3 screws Evenly a little at a time. Putting the arm back in just push it back into position so the bolt can be pushed thru and reinstall the lock nut. Should take about 10mins doing it that way and doesn't require complete removal from the car.

As JDM noted the newer R3 version uses a different design (Screw mechanism with a thumb **** and a single lock bolt to hold setting) to accomplish the same thing but ultimately it's the movement of the pivot point for the clevis vs the pivot of the arm that makes such a change in feel. The clutch rod is only for fine tuning the engagement height while the AFP setting makes a much larger change in feel.

JDM- you noted being at the end of the adjustment rod for engagement height. You can thread the rod out on the R3.3 just until the tip of the rod is flush with the rear of the clevis. Beyond that any extra threads sticking thru the rear aren't doing anything to hold the clevis and you may be able to get an extra turn of height from it if you haven't already done that.

 

I will try but I don't think it will matter much anyhow as there is only about 1 thread left. it would probably take 4-5 threads to make a real difference.