I have a Quaife LSD and it's great, but if you are already laying rubber with both tires, a Quaife isn't going to help much.

I have driven a lot of Z's with worn out stock VLSD's. Those cars will benefit from a switch, but primarily because they are comparing non-working LSD to working LSD.

The most powerful 350 I have driven was an APS TT with ~600 whp. Not even 315 NT-01's and a clutch-type LSD could put all the power down on course.

 

Traction will be dictated by tires, contact patch (camber), and weight over the rear wheels. To get to zero or near zero camber, I believe you will need SPL midlinks and toe rods with eccentric bolt delete.

 

 

the top three ways to get more traction is increase the sidewall, get a softer tire, and suspension setup. more sidewall is how outlaw cars hook with over 2000 whp with only a 275 drag radial and the best bet for traction in a IRS car. Another way is SPL bushing to limit deflection of the wheels but the cars going to be less comfortable being a solid suspension. deflection from bushings will make the tires act like a spring and kill traction. dropping down to a 17 inch wheel with the same height tire will give you the best traction.

 

If its warm out I can hook 605hp/540tq in second gear.

295 KDW2 and -1.1 camber. Going from -2 to this setup made a massive difference straight line but also hindered the cornering slightly. I also run a 3.3FD though.

Best thing to learn how to be really good at is just peddle the car.

 

+1 Couldn't agree more...

 

This is the only way to get low camber. I have everything upgraded in the rear except the mid links (which require changing to a coil over setup as well) and the most I can get is -1.2* camber. If I try to take out more the toe gets way out of spec. So I was limited to that camber. I would like to run mine 0 camber but the cost of the midlinks and going to a coil over setup to fit them was around 2 grand. For the amount I drive the car it isn't worth the cost.

Yes

This as well.


I'm running considerably more power but when I was s/c at just around 500hp the M/T drag radials 305/35/18 hooked dead solid. I also have falken 452 275 wide tires for street tires and they are garbage. I could light them up in first gear before my car was boosted.

As for non-drag tires I think the recommendations of others that use street based tires would probably be the best choices. I have no experience with those tires but others say they get good results.