I'm installing a used Greddy TT kit & the previous owner never sent me the shorter M10 x 35mm studs. I cant find them online.

Any idea what they can be replaced with? The stock ones are touching the manifold and I dont wanna cut them down where they can never be removed.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Mine didnt come with them either. Just cut the stock ones where they hit, there are only a few on either side, thats what I did. You can use a file or die to fix the threads to where a nut can go back on. I had no issues.

 

if you want to order some check out: [url]http://www.mcmaster.com

 

I have no idea what the Greddy ones measure. I might just switch to bolts instead of studs. I ordered M10 x25mm 1.25 today. Hope they work

 

just cut the stockers and be done!

 

Honestly I'm worried if they strip down the road I would have no way of taking them out.

I got bolts based on this thread. M10 x 25mm fine thread 1.25
Torque once, instead of twice. Why not! lol


http://g35driver.com/forums/intake-e...placement.html

 

yeah yeah yeah...don't cut the OEM studs...in fact, remove them and replace them if you can...in reality, you'll be able to remove them but in good practice put fresh hardware on...coat them in antiseize before you reinstall

here are a few things I would do when buying a used turbo kit...

#1 - rebuild both blowers no matter what...it'll cost you $1000 but you'll know that the blowers are good

#2 - replace the diaphram in the blow off valve...the bov is the last check point before the throttle valve and will eliminate many headaches...$50 fix

#3 - be 110% certain that the waste gates function as new...if you are not sure than pay an experienced professional to check and double check them...$300-$500

#4 - make sure your tune is applicable...pay an experienced tuner to give you a 100% fail-safe tune to get from the garage to the dyno...then pay him to give you a 110% fail safe dyno tune...$1000

#5 - have an experienced aftermarket mechanic look over your headers to make sure they are good...if they gotta be rewelded to fix cracks it'll be a huge pain in the ***...$200

#6 - replace your oil feed and oil return lines...oil is your life line - spend the $100 to $200 to ensure you you are feeding and scavenging oil the right way

#7 - add an oil cooler...

 

^^ very nice post sir. Well said. Those are good points.

 

how would they strip? the threads? You can use two nuts to take them out. The start pattern on the end is worthless. When I tried to take mine out that way it stripped off. But I agree, if you can find new hardware go for it, but the stock studs are just fine.

 

+1 for OEM/stock studs, my thing was to replace them if they are in poor condition...

 

The Greddy hardware is nice and pretty but the stainless seizes up and becomes a nightmare for removal after a couple years. When I uninstall, I usually have 1-2 that I have to cut off.

I stopped using it, and switched back to the stock studs. They are much higher quality and stronger and do not seize up.

Shorten whatever studs you need to shorten. I dont know why you are worried about removing them after shortening them... how is it any different than removing the Greddy ones that do not have a star on the end? Google the term "double nut" and then you will stop worrying about how you get them in and out without a star.

The stock nuts are too large diameter in several spots to use on the Greddy manifolds. I lathe them all down to a smaller diameter.

I also cut the Greddy manifold flanges flat/parallel at all the nut locations so that they torque properly. Although this is probably too much for most people at home.

 

I did this for the wastegate hardware landings...

 

Thanks guys. I totally forgot about the double but. Good idea.
However I don't think it's worth my time cutting them for what it cost to replace them
I ended up buying these locally. Cost me 19 bucks for 15 of them. I'm gonna try them today

 

I spent $20 on the first round tonight...good investment..