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So I figured I would start this because other threads I have started were for certain things. Things just keep popping up and I figured I would put into one. So as I made the decision to pull motor for a greddy manifold that cracked I wanted to address the head gasket leak that I had ever since day one I started the motor after assembled. As I dug into the disassembly I removed all necessary things to pull heads. When I took cam caps off this is what I noticed
So after I calmed down and pulled the rest apart I realized something went wrong. After asking on here and taking to machine shop it was determined that my head was shot and I needed a new one. I searched down a head from a core supplier took it to shop to determine where I was going to go with the head work. Since I am running the Jim wolf s7 cams with the heavy duty springs it now just seeing what shop say can be done.
Today I drive down to my garage to get my intake and a few other things and was going over my block and once again I notice another issue. THIS::
I'm not a professional but I do know this isn't right. U run your finger over it and no you can't really feel it but like I said I know it's not right. So now I'm going to be taking the whole block to shop and see what's gotta be done to make this right.
My motor is built. Wisco pistons, eagle h-beam rods everything is ARP,
Even tho I wasn't expecting all this the question now is to upgrade the Pistons and go for a better rod since I got this whole thing apart? My plan was to make more power 650 to 700ish rwhp. When it rains it's pours!!!!
It might help us to make some suggestions based on what your Z's history is. Looking back through your threads, it doesn't look like you provided any details on it. Did you purchase the car already built? How many miles are on it and how many before it started exhibiting all these problems? Do you know who built this motor in the first place?
It might help us to make some suggestions based on what your Z's history is. Looking back through your threads, it doesn't look like you provided any details on it. Did you purchase the car already built? How many miles are on it and how many before it started exhibiting all these problems? Do you know who built this motor in the first place?
I had the motor built probably 4 years ago. Car sat for bot 2 1/2 yrs. motor only has bout 12,000 miles maybe. And 5 of it was no boost. I would rather not put out who built it right now. Still trying to work out what has happened. Also the gentleman has been very not only helpful but available to. There was no signs at all of anything possibly happening. Like I said this all started from a cracked manifold one thing led to another and here I am.
When you say you had the engine "built", there's a lot of questions right there. Did you start by having the VQ shortblock rebuilt with balanced/blueprinted components like the crank, forged rods and pistons? If so, I'd wonder about how that much damage could show up at the top of the cylinder wall. And the damage to the cam end cap and cam was from either poor maintenance, abusing the engine or a problem with the build itself. I leave it to you to work with the engine shop and figure it out, but you need to figure out what happened FIRST, before moving on to building another engine.
I mentioned all that above. Full build. Bore .20 over Bearings ,rods, Pistons heads runners polished with cams springs and 5 angle valve job. As far as poor maintenance, not a chance. I kept up with thing more then most people probably would have. Either way like I said motor doesn't have many miles in it and bottom line never should have happened. Of course I'm going to get to the bottom of it. Who wouldn't just a matter of finding out what needs to be done to fix it and fix it right so it don't happen again!
Need to figure out what caused this so as of right now I need to pull bottom end apart and see what's going on. Examine everything and determine what caused this. This is why I say if anyone has any suggestions as to what to look for or do. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks. I'm not oblivious to what needs to be done just looking for input on what other guys have experienced and what they did
You need a pro opinion, not an amateur's but I believe bearing wear could have been secondary to all the metal debris floating around from scoring of the cylinder wall. Looks like the piston ring is not installed correctly to score like that or possibly detonation but I do not see evidence of that on the piston surface (from what is pictured). What were your leakdown #s? Do you think there is a chance you mechanically over-rev'd the engine?
I had a piston ring installed upside down and it lasted for 20k miles.
By the way, I'd say you have metal shavings everywhere so everything needs to be redone. Sorry man.
Near a pro opinion, not an amateur's but I believe bearing wear could have been secondary to all the metal debris floating around from scoring of the cylinder wall. Looks like the piston ring is not installed correctly to score like that or possibly detonation but I do not see evidence of that on the piston surface (from what is pictured). What were your leakdown #s? Do you think there is a chance you mechanically over-rev'd the engine?
I had a piston ring installed upside down and it lasted for 20k miles.
By the way, I'd say you have metal shavings everywhere so everything needs to be redone. Sorry man.
Thanks for the input. As far as over reving it I don't think I did but anything is possible. Motor was built to handle high reving. As far as checking the bearings that's my next step when I go back down to shop. Now things are starting to make some sort of sense. Ever since the motor was built when I did oil changes I noticed some fine metal substance on the magnetic drain bolt. And I was alway concerned with this. I looked at it tho like ok the motor was just built and with all the assembly lube and what not maybe it's just working its way out. Idk. The motor is pretty fresh so that's why I was saying that. It has to get broken all the way down and determine what the cause was so I will be updating and posting more pics as I go on. Thanks again for the responding
If the cylinder wall score won't clean up or the wall becomes too thin, you can always dry sleeve them like SFR did to mine after the GTM fiasco/dyno blowup (I didn't want to go wet sleeves).
If the cylinder wall score won't clean up or the wall becomes too thin, you can always dry sleeve them like SFR did to mine after the GTM fiasco/dyno blowup (I didn't want to go wet sleeves).
Thank man. Not sure what's going on yet, haven't been to my garage holidays plus work but I have a feeling I'm gonna have to sleeve it. Sry for the ignorance but, what do you mean by wet and dry sleeves?
Earlier, people used darton "wet" sleeves which had the water jacket built around the sleeve as well (occupying the space where the stock water jacket was). Many people had issues with the sleeves dropping out the bottom and having to rebuild the engine. The stock sleeves must be almost fully bored out to accept the wet sleeves.
I had never seen dry sleeves either until Tim at SFR mentioned them and I research them-still made by darton but the only fill the bore with an overhang to catch the top part of the stock sleeve so they can't drop.
On some bikes, it seems the deeper you bore the softer the metal, or at least I've been told..Looks like you are into a soft area with that scratch.
Regardless, the new dry sleeves give a stronger iron bore when oversized pistons are used.
I may have gotten some of this wrong but that's what I have been told and know at this point. Maybe the more experienced guys can fill you in better.
these are brian crowers dry sleeves which I am using.
Earlier, people used darton "wet" sleeves which had the water jacket built around the sleeve as well (occupying the space where the stock water jacket was). Many people had issues with the sleeves dropping out the bottom and having to rebuild the engine. The stock sleeves must be almost fully bored out to accept the wet sleeves.
I had never seen dry sleeves either until Tim at SFR mentioned them and I research them-still made by darton but the only fill the bore with an overhang to catch the top part of the stock sleeve so they can't drop.
On some bikes, it seems the deeper you bore the softer the metal, or at least I've been told..Looks like you are into a soft area with that scratch.
Regardless, the new dry sleeves give a stronger iron bore when oversized pistons are used.
I may have gotten some of this wrong but that's what I have been told and know at this point. Maybe the more experienced guys can fill you in better.
these are brian crowers dry sleeves which I am using.
Well it is what it is!!! After Christmas I'm going down to break lower end apart and I'll go from there. My buddy mentioned to just get a new block from my core guy that is stock and have it honed out and just run obviously upgraded Pistons but stock size. I can get a core dirt cheap. Idk. So many ways to go
core is cheap way but it is still an AL bore not iron...I doubt sleeves ar 432 each....have to investigate Z specific cost..I think mine were like less than 200 each.......
Ok so little update. Took bottom end apart to find there definitely was a oil issue. Bearing have signs of wear with scoring as well. Motor only has 12k maybe on it. Crank also has some scoring as well. Needless to say motor is apart and getting dropped off at machine shop tomorrow morning to see what next step is. Pics are the better of the bearings for some reason the others didn't get saved on my phone. I'll get pics of others
All signs of a full build again
