Cooling vq35de FI: "pathfinder" mod or hr head gaskets and mod the block?
This will sound harsh... Don't be so naive to think that a possible second thermostat failing is a bigger issue than having to do extra machining to fit a headgaskets and tty bolt combo that a good majority would advise is not the best on the market. You would be better off IMHO, not running the cooling mod and running the hks/l19 combo.
I'm going with ARP head studs (non L19 ones). These aren't TTY, right?
sealing the heads properly is one of the biggest concerns building these motors. the cooling mods you are discussing are not as important
you want the strongest studs you can buy, if L19's are available, you would be foolish not to get them. TTY are bolts, not studs, so if you are buying ARP head studs, no they are not.
sealing the heads properly is one of the biggest concerns building these motors. the cooling mods you are discussing are not as important
sealing the heads properly is one of the biggest concerns building these motors. the cooling mods you are discussing are not as important
HR mod requires shaving down diverting walls in the block because the coolant flow is changed: it goes to the block and then enters the head right near exhaust valves (the hottest part of the head). Doing that also increases coolant flow going to the block and cooling cylinders.
I'm not sure doing both mods is a good idea: when secondary thermostat opens less coolant goes to the head. Not sure how big the chagne in the flow though.
i am getting the pathfinder mod done and i have the HR mod done so ill let you guys now if its better or worse. If room i wonder if a valve on the line that allows it to be flow to thepathfinder t-stat or not flow is a good idea. would the pressure blow the pipe if its not allowed to flow through into the T-stat?
Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 27, 2016 at 10:00 PM.
Pathfinder mod diverts coolant flow to aid with block cooling, so more coolant cools the block and less goes to the head.
HR mod requires shaving down diverting walls in the block because the coolant flow is changed: it goes to the block and then enters the head right near exhaust valves (the hottest part of the head). Doing that also increases coolant flow going to the block and cooling cylinders.
I'm not sure doing both mods is a good idea: when secondary thermostat opens less coolant goes to the head. Not sure how big the chagne in the flow though.
HR mod requires shaving down diverting walls in the block because the coolant flow is changed: it goes to the block and then enters the head right near exhaust valves (the hottest part of the head). Doing that also increases coolant flow going to the block and cooling cylinders.
I'm not sure doing both mods is a good idea: when secondary thermostat opens less coolant goes to the head. Not sure how big the chagne in the flow though.
You should really get L19 bolts if your HP goal is more than 500WHP. ARP 2000 head bolts doesn't have enough clamping force, that's a well known and proven fact.
Thanks! Did you do anything else to your cooling system? How much HP are you pushing? Is your car SC or turbocharged?
L19 head studs are already on my shopping list. Going with ARP L19 head studs & ARP main studs.
L19 head studs are already on my shopping list. Going with ARP L19 head studs & ARP main studs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jonnyidfw
Engine
3
Jan 25, 2016 07:11 AM
EnjukuRacing
Engine
0
Jan 20, 2016 10:24 AM



