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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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Default Precision 6466

I am getting a mid mount Twin scroll setup being fabricated.

6466 Gen2 CEA T4 with S port cover and 1.15 rear housing.
Will have 3.5" dump and dual 3" exhaust all custom.

I have read with BB they dont like more than 60psi oil pressure.
My idle start oil pressure is around 70-90 and WOT can be upto 100psi.

Should a .60 or .65 restrictor be used to stop excessive oil going past the seals and rings?

what oil supply line is recommended for this turbo. -3an or -4an.

I have read alot of trouble can be linked to oil contamination so i am wanting to use a small inline oil filter but the smallest i can find one is -4an so if im running a restrictor is the -4an ok ?

Thanks






-4an

Last edited by R6n350GT; Jan 24, 2016 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:32 PM
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-4AN line and you don't need a restrictor. BB turbos have them built in at the oil inlet.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
-4AN line and you don't need a restrictor. BB turbos have them built in at the oil inlet.
Thanks. Do you know what size they use and have they always used it?

so -4an with filter to turbo no restrictor

turbo dump -6 to the scavenge pump and then -6an from pump back to sump ?

Is it worth putting a filter on the oil inlet scavenge pump as it comes from the turbo? i have been looking to see what kind of fitting to use but cant find anything..
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
Thanks. Do you know what size they use and have they always used it?

so -4an with filter to turbo no restrictor

turbo dump -6 to the scavenge pump and then -6an from pump back to sump ?

Is it worth putting a filter on the oil inlet scavenge pump as it comes from the turbo? i have been looking to see what kind of fitting to use but cant find anything..
No I do not know the size, no restricotor needed.

You should have an oil reservoir, -8AN to scavenge pump, which should have a strainer on the inlet, and then -8AN to oil pan. It does not need to be above oil line level in the pan.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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I have a forced performance turbo inlet filter (with a pressure gauge afterwards). I have never heard of a filter on the way back to the sump - curious why that is recommended Sasha?

EDIT: So the scavenge pump does not get jammed with debris in the event of a motor or turbo failure?
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
No I do not know the size, no restricotor needed.

You should have an oil reservoir, -8AN to scavenge pump, which should have a strainer on the inlet, and then -8AN to oil pan. It does not need to be above oil line level in the pan.
I spoke to Precision and they are built in as you said. They also said the feed line should be filtered but not using a in line filter but a remote oil bracket and filter. but then wouldnt all the oil of the engine be running through this ??

Did you make the oil reservoir sasha or buy them? why didnt you go with -10an to the pump and then back to sump? As for the strainer where can i buy one of those or what do i search for when looking for one.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
I have a forced performance turbo inlet filter (with a pressure gauge afterwards). I have never heard of a filter on the way back to the sump - curious why that is recommended Sasha?

EDIT: So the scavenge pump does not get jammed with debris in the event of a motor or turbo failure?

yeah that is why i want to do it like that
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 01:19 PM
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will this work?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Moroso-23...4AAOSwT5tWQt6X


So OEM oil filter location will have two sandwhich plates.
One will go to oil cooler (-10AN)
One will go to the remote plate IN (-10AN) and the OUT (-10AN) will go back to the sandwhich plate. Then the top port will be filtered ? And supply -4AN line to the turbo supply line with one way valve on it.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
I have a forced performance turbo inlet filter (with a pressure gauge afterwards). I have never heard of a filter on the way back to the sump - curious why that is recommended Sasha?

EDIT: So the scavenge pump does not get jammed with debris in the event of a motor or turbo failure?
I have had 3 thrust washer failures with PTE's JB turbos (out of about 150 sold), causing the small piece of debris to jam the scavenge pump....so smoking...etc. Precision claims oil contaminations...and so on.



Originally Posted by R6n350GT
I spoke to Precision and they are built in as you said. They also said the feed line should be filtered but not using a in line filter but a remote oil bracket and filter. but then wouldnt all the oil of the engine be running through this ??

Did you make the oil reservoir sasha or buy them? why didnt you go with -10an to the pump and then back to sump? As for the strainer where can i buy one of those or what do i search for when looking for one.

Yes, I make the oil reservoirs. There is no need to go to -10, the pump is moving the oil, not gravity. The strainers are available with the Exa pump.

http://www.turbowerx.com/page8/page8.html
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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What kind of boost is required to get a 6466 1.15 TS to
500hp
600hp
700hp

Trying to decide what MAP sensor to get as haltech only can handle 20psi
Is it worth just getting a 4 bar
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by R6n350GT
What kind of boost is required to get a 6466 1.15 TS to
500hp
600hp
700hp

Trying to decide what MAP sensor to get as haltech only can handle 20psi
Is it worth just getting a 4 bar
On a built engine you should not be going with a 1.15 a/r housing. 1.32 a/r is the only way to go.

My customers are consistently getting 600whp to 650whp with a 6266 on 93 pump gas at around 18-19psi with simple short block builds. To go beyond that you will need Ethanol or equivalent.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
On a built engine you should not be going with a 1.15 a/r housing. 1.32 a/r is the only way to go.

My customers are consistently getting 600whp to 650whp with a 6266 on 93 pump gas at around 18-19psi with simple short block builds. To go beyond that you will need Ethanol or equivalent.
I would be happy with 650, id be worried for my eagle rods and wiesco pistons to push any further. Plus stock axles breaking. And im not using a billet girdle.

Im also running E85 so what kind of psi do you think will max out the 1.15 and what power would you expect it to be at.

Edit: do you have dynos for 6466 or know what psi/power/a/r you customers got and if it was 350/370. how much more power does the 3.7L make at the same boost/turbo anyway

Last edited by R6n350GT; Feb 13, 2016 at 10:25 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2016 | 06:52 AM
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For reference, here is a 370z on Ethanol, 6266 T4 1.15 a/r:







The kit makes power effortlessly, and the tuner said the GTX BB TT kits when ovelayed on this chart are identical. He was very surprised, as he has never see a ST kit do that.
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Old Feb 14, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
For reference, here is a 370z on Ethanol, 6266 T4 1.15 a/r:







The kit makes power effortlessly, and the tuner said the GTX BB TT kits when ovelayed on this chart are identical. He was very surprised, as he has never see a ST kit do that.
Thanks for that. And if that exact setup was used on a 350z how much less power does the 3.5L make. Is that built that 370?
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