fluidz

Hello...........I am getting the Procharger and CompTech USA is doing the install and tuning.........I will not change anything from the factory specs. Pulley will remain 7 pounds..........I will be adding NGK Iridium one step colder plugs..........What shall I expect to see at the wheels as far as Horsepower. Right now with all motor I am 256rwhp..........Should I get a Technosquare ECU flash? Will that take care of the timing issues up top? Any imput would be greatly appreciated as I want my car to run top notch always and be reliable...........very important to me. I think the ATI kit when tuned properly is the best centrifical unit available.

ravaz

iTrader: (1)

Buy a J&S Safeguard to take care of the timing.

spazpilot

iTrader: (2)

I would get the TS ecu If I were you. Its been proven to work very well

ravaz

iTrader: (1)

Well what if you get some knock? Is the TS going to help you then? I'd get the J&S just for the extra protection, plus you can fine tune it if you ever decide to up the boost or whatever. Just my opinion, it's what I use with my ATI.

daking350

My car is currently getting the Perfect Power SMT6 installed on it I will let you know how it goes by WED..

Jax350z

...and the Perfect Power SMT6 is....?

daking350

Complete control bro...Complete control...

fluidz

so any clues what my rwhp will be with the ATI out of the box......im at 256rwhp right now all motor? I'm just curious

daking350

350-370whp tuned..

jawbone

werent you gonna pass on the smt6? I thought it was setting ses lights.

daking350

I am sacraficing in the name of science..it may just be that Jays car was F'ed up to begin with..Either way Bob will figure it out he has over 40 years tuning experience and knows his stuff..He specialises in turning carberated cars to fuel injected cars and has worked on custom cars for ford and bmw mini..So we will see..

12SecZ

Yo Fluidz,

I will give you a ride in my car, you will get 5 different answers on tuning from 5 different kits in 5 different states.

Take a ride in mine, you are 30 minutes away.

With TS reflash expect 365 minimum and you won't have knock or detonation they have done several. Just buy the tuner kit, the complete kit is CRAP for California's with cheap 91 octane, trust me on this.... Put that extra 800 towards TS ECU and GUAGES and you are good to go out of the box.

You can add the J&S or MSD for insurance but it tells you you just got detonation, TS stops it before it occurs. Both have proven to work well but the TS cars seem to get higher numbers.

I hope this doesn't turn into a 5 page debate on tuning, I am simply letting you know you can drive my TS Tuned car as be the judge, seeing as how we have already met.

BTW, PM me that Dyno info you talked about at the show like phone number price Model etc, I am ready to do mine at 9 lbs.

fluidz

Will I get detonation with the 7lb pulley and the A/F ratios tuned correctly...........?

daking350

It is always a possibility...Bad gas..Extreme temt change...
Max is right..You ask 5 people you will get 5 different answers...This thread is going to confuse you and probably wont be conducive to your tuning at all.Your best option is to read up on supercharging,and when I mean read up I dont mean internet forums..There is usually too much BS and not enough factual stuff in here....
You have several options that seem to be the popular..
Aeromotive DFMU By itself- not highly reccomended
Aeromotive DFMU+J&S safeguard -seems to be the popular choice but like 12secZ said it stops knock once it starts by retarding timing,but it also takes out a certain amount of timing to avoid the knock in the first place..
ECU Reflash/Injectors/Pump- Seems to work but I dont like the idea of not having the ability to tune for future mods unless you reflash it...
DFMU and Perfect Power SMT6- we will see the outcome of this by late Monday..This unit gives you full tuning capabilities over fuel and timing..Very similar to the Xede unit..

The bottom line is that no matter what method you choose to tune your car it all comes down to the skill and knowledge of the tuner doing it..Good luck and happy readings..

mprowe350

Fluidz,
I currently have the 8 pound set-up using DFMU/pump. According to the tuner (who has lots of experience) my car is not lean detonating but rather rich detonating. From 5200 rpm to 6100 rpm the air/fuel drops below 11 and runs very rich. Towards redline it starts to lean and the air/fuel reaches 11.6 or so at redline. It is very easy to lean detonate the motor if you try to lean the mixture through the mid 5k to low 6k rpms due to the steep timing curve. Most of my power is lost in these rpm ranges because i have to be safe until my timing is reduced. I am planning on getting the J and S unit to reduce the timing curve myself and highly recommend it to you. Then it is possible to run slightly leaner before redline which is where the motor makes most of its of power. Also, if you are planning on using the DFMU/pump combo then I recommend a fuel pressure gauge to monitor its performance. Getting the colder plugs will help but they only help when gapped smaller than factory settings. My plugs are at .030" which is where Eric at ATI told me to gap even if the manual says .035".

ravaz

iTrader: (1)

The problem I see with the TS flash for timing is who knows how much timing they are taking out anyway, it could be way more then needed, it seems to be a very good option so far. My opinion, I figured which was the best ammount to take out of my car, if it's not enough, well then the J&S will do it's thing and take out the rest, then you can fine tune it like that, the J&S will tell you how much additional timing it's taking out. I'm all for safety, no doubt. But I also want to be able to control and change my settings whenever I want to, not rely on overnighting a package and having to toss out money everytime I need something changed. Just my 2cent.

fluidz

could I have ATI just send me a 6 lb pulley like the G's use to reduce the chance of a problem........sounds safe to me??? am i missing something?

12SecZ

Well Fluids the timing is what is killing the engines on our cars, you must address that and you must stay between 11.5 and 12.5 while under 800C EGT. The closer to 11.5 the better with this kit.

So Daking said it best, tuning tuning tuning.

As you can see, some want more control. My car is done so I do not worry about adding anything.

If you are unsure like say order a 6 lb pulley and later want to go to 7 lbs then self tuning as Bill described is your best bet too not TS.

The problem is there is no guarantee how much boost your car will make, it is unique, you have to trial and error.

You are not guaranteed 6 pounds in the mail with X # of pulleys I am on my 3rd set of pulleys and second flash to get where I want to be. You have been bitten by the speed bug, keep asking questions or that itch will become infected

fluidz

so lets say i get the kit and install it right out of the box and have it dynoed and my air fuel is at 11.5.............is everything fine, no need to do any timing things? Is the reason peeps are screwing with timing because there a/f ratios are ubove 12.5?

12SecZ

No your engine will blow with that setup unless you reduce timing, it's 28 DTDc and you MUST reduce that number, plus I think you can drop all the way to 11.0 on fuel but that makes less power on my car.