I like this thread and don't want it to die because i'm curious on how everyone with the GTS8555 is doing.

 

Mines still good, getting ready to paint the car so I havent had a chance to do much with it. Hopefully I'll have it painted in the next month or so, then do a handful of track days probably up until the end of the year. If all is well with the engine I'll probably work on finishing the new intake, move to the larger throttle, and possible go E85 and have it re-tuned.

 

Still curious if a larger TB will even do anything without changing the size of the pipe going to it.

 

Getting interested in this thing again. So the 500 is at the crank and the only supporting mods they used are cams and headers.


Hello Michael, Thank you for reaching out to us. Is the product of your question as below?

12001-AN008 GT S/C SYSTEM PRO Z33 VQ35DE VER2 MSRP: $4980.00

https://www.hksusa.com/products/12001/AN008/56

If so, please find our answers below in red.



1.Is the sentence in parenthesis below regarding power at the crank or at the wheels?

It is regarding the power at the crank. However, the power changes depending on which gas you use and how the ECU is tuned. So, please understand that it is just for reference.



2.What components are necessary to achieve over 500hp, be it at the wheels or the crank?

"This kit can achieve over 500hp if the engine is strengthened, and better torque and power than GTS7040 kit with a stock engine."

When we tested, we replaced the piston, connecting rod, head gasket, camshaft, and header.



Since we do not do any direct sales, please contact one of our Authorized Dealers listed in the link below, for your purchase of our products and further assistance.

https://www.hksusa.com/distributors-dealers



Thank you.

HKS USA Support

 

You getting it? I have mine chillin in my basement for the time being. You'll need their headers, cams and a built block of course. Most likely a return system with a pump and injectors too

 

You got it then? Nice.
Not sure but I'm leaning towards it again. It's funny how much time has passed since this thread started. If I do, 110 pulley for me for now as I'll stick with what I've got regarding intake and exhaust on the stock block & more importantly a stock auto trans., both with 110k miles on'em. That trans will start slipping long before the short block gives. Been getting things done on the interior and considering different wheels.

 

Yeah I bought it last year, currently waiting until I gather enough cash for a built block. Never really saw the purpose of running the kit restricted as you still have to go through all the trouble of fuel and tuning. At minimum you want to set up for the most boost to avoid extra work later.
Alternatively if you don't plan on hitting that cap might as well go for the 7040 kit.

 

I understand your point of view but I like the journey. I was going to go FI a few years ago but after having done what I did, I was as fast or faster than guys with stage 4 stillen superchargers, so I've enjoyed that for awhile now. It was such a dramatic difference, from where it is today compared to what it was stock. It's still a lot of fun to drive and believe me when I tell you that I whoop much *** when there's *** to whoop. The best race I had was a late model M2. He won, but it took him to 65+ mph to overcome and pass me.
The next step for me would be the 8555 with the 110 and enjoy that big bump for a bit. I'm not exactly looking forward to building the engine or trans because I cannot handle the job myself, mostly time constrictions, so I'll have to rely on a shop. You know what happens at shops, right? They scratch ****, dent **** and in general, they just beat **** up. My old 2003 FX is in such good condition, I'm just not looking forward to leaving it in the hands of whomever. That and the 1 &1/2 or so second drop in 1/4 mile et's has kept me where I am today.
With the 110 pulley, I can handle everything shy of the tune. After awhile, maybe I'll pull the engine and trans myself and ship'em out, the trans to IPT and the engine, maybe Dynosty? SOHO is really close. Not sure yet. I won't wait as long to build as I have to force feed tho.
The 8555, higher compression, cams and a 150 shot might get me knocking on the 10 second door. 410's would be really nice but not sure about the front diff.
I have done a lot with the interior tho. New leather on the front seats (backs are pristine), dash wrapped, new shifter boot & leather wrapped ****, head unit and all speakers and amps and new tints.
I pulled the pics down. Threads not about my ride.

 

Pretty clean, and believe me I know what you mean about the shops.
Ideally I want to swap the engine, trans and do the fuel system myself but I'm a bit iffy with the return conversion myself. I'm getting old and even tho I'm a mechanic, working and both my cars and wrenching for a living gets tiresome VERY quick and takes a toll on my body. If you want to go that route I'd at least say get the fuel return, pump and injectors set up for the 500hp that way you don't have to do double the work. Nitrous would be a good step in the middle (I've also considered that for my DD) I wouldn't use it on top of boost tho. I'm planning on using Cryo instead, I contemplated doing it in steps but my engine has almost 100k, has a rear crank seal leak, and a decent amount of sludge in the engine. I have no desire to do all that work twice so I'll just wait lol.
My choices for engine builders are Soho and Dynosty as well, my problem is nobody here tunes with uprev. The only thing I could tune with is locally is Haltech. If I go that route it's all good otherwise I have to tow it a very long distance.

 

If you're feeling run down, it's time to change your diet. I did. The thread I started about covid then got taken over by a bunch of illiterate gullibles, I refer to mercola.com, that's one of my better sources for health information. It's golden.
That is the plan regarding pump and injectors but you think a return system is needed? I know HKS doesn't write anything about that.
The use of nitrous is to attempt to baby the weak auto trans. It would be dialed in to hit after gear change to reduce the chance of destroying the clutch pack. It's use would be primarily to attempt to get a sub 10 second timeslip with the original nissan drivetrain. Not something I'd use on the regular. I could swap in a chevy engine and make that timeslip much easier to achieve but I want to keep all wheel drive, I want to keep it Nissan and I don't care for Cheverolet at all.
I should end up with a slightly favorable power to weight ratio vs a stock GTR, so I think it's doable.
I'd still like to spray water pre-compressor and completely delete the intercooler. That reduction of **** (cooler, piping, bends) that's elongating the tract, restricting air from the compressor to the intake is robbing power just as it does when naturally aspirated and adds to the heating of the air. If I can get creative and find a way to get air to the superchargers inlet from outside the engine bay then the intercooler delete will be that much more realistic.

 

I keep trying to but I have to try harder, it's not so much that I feel bad, it's more that I work on the concrete floor at the house. If I had a lift things would be much easier.
I was talking to several people and they recommended the return system for that level of power, so I guess it's needed.
​​​​​100% against swaps myself, now I imagine things will be slightly different for you but the layout of this kit is pretty slick. The piping goes straight to the intercooler, comes out the same side and then straight to the TB, also the intake is in the fender well behind the headlight.
At the kits max power I'd definitely want to run the intercooler and spray the intercooler itself with c02 if anything.

 

My crank and alt. pulleys are under driven. Do I go with the 100mm pulley & get the rev limit lowered during the tune? Gotta figure this out.

- HKS GTS8555 SUPERCHARGER
- BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
- 1 STEP COOLER PLUGS LFR6AIX-11
- WALBRO 255lph PUMP
- 600cc INJECTORS

A 255 pump & 600cc injectors should be good for the maximum power this little blower has to offer. Not sure what HKS was thinking about when they designed their system. Might have something to do with their fcon management.

 

When I talked to Bealljk he said go with 300or340/1000 you don't want to run out of fuel and the price difference is negligible. Make sure to add the return system to that list too. As far as the drive, go back to stock there isn't much to gain and from what I hear these things are very sensitive to RPM. The cammed setup I posted made max power at 6800 so you want those revs.

 

I think that’s overkill. Z1 Motorsports sells their version of the kit. They sell it in a similar way as the vortec unit. 255 and 600 and no return fuel is needed.

 

I think you are going to hit fuel limits before you hit blower limits.

Personally I would do 340 lph pump and at least 750 injectors. Remember you want to keep your injector duty cycle <85%.

 

Exactly, personally I don't trust Z1 on the matter. Most if not all the boosted guy with 500hp capability will run a return system there isn't a real overkill when it comes to fuel. You run lean at the wrong time and engine goes bye bye. Plus superchargers tend to be thirsty little devils.

 

I'm not arguing with y'all. Last time I did, DarkZ03 handed my *** to me.

Z1 sells their Vortec v3 and HKS kits with a 255 and 1000cc which is interesting. It's been awhile but I know they had 600cc previously for both. I got the 600cc from my old notes I gathered when researching 3 years ago.
They recommend 600 for the 110 and 1000 for the 100 now.
Still, I'm not coming across use of a return fuel system recommended for either. I don't recall the need for this back when I did all my research.
I am going to figure out where I'd be at using the underdrive crank pulley. I've also deleted the center pulley and bracket. Can't remember what that pulley is called. I prefer not to use that so I'd have to measure for the right size belt.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-s...rs-p-3165.html
"We recommend using injectors about 20% larger than your HP goals (ex. 500hp use 600cc)."

 

Z1 also recommends 1000cc for the higher boost pulley.

 

I know CJ is working on a surge tank, maybe that'll eliminate the need for a return? I'm always going to say go for the max you need for a given kit. The price between buying 600 & 1000 is negligible, same with the pumps. So in my eyes it not even a question get the higher ones even if it is "overkill". It better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. Message Beall and Tim, I'm sure both will confirm the need for a return system, tho they might just say go Vortech lol.

 

this is from the Vortech FAQ on here.