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DD Revup engine build and a Vortech

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Old May 13, 2020 | 10:22 AM
  #41  
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LTH is Long Tube Headers.


Originally Posted by THIRZTY
I'm not sure what you mean by "LTHs" ?

I have a Revup and don't believe I can use the Link G4+ ecu... a tuner I was talking to wanted me to go that route and he checked into it.
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Old May 13, 2020 | 10:50 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
I'm not sure what you mean by "LTHs" ?

I have a Revup and don't believe I can use the Link G4+ ecu... a tuner I was talking to wanted me to go that route and he checked into it.
You can use it, I am and I know another person with a revup running one as well. I’m running a very aggressive setup as well so uprev isn’t an option. (Mostly sick of the client crashing)
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Old May 13, 2020 | 11:25 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 0taku
You can use it, I am and I know another person with a revup running one as well. I’m running a very aggressive setup as well so uprev isn’t an option. (Mostly sick of the client crashing)
Good to know. So my ecu plug is compatible? I sent this picture to the tuner about a year ago and was told it wouldn't work. Maybe something changed or he didn't really know?

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Old May 13, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
I have a Revup and don't believe I can use the Link G4+ ecu... a tuner I was talking to wanted me to go that route and he checked into it.
Originally Posted by 0taku
You can use it, I am and I know another person with a revup running one as well. I’m running a very aggressive setup as well so uprev isn’t an option. (Mostly sick of the client crashing)
I believe you can as well but be very very careful which ECU you use as I believe you are in california? And I highly doubt a standalone will pass smog/emissions testing there.


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Old May 13, 2020 | 11:31 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
LTH is Long Tube Headers.
Gotcha... I should know that lol
I wanted to install headers when I did the engine rebuild but ran out of $ at the time... and that's one of those installs I really don't want to do with the engine in the car.... ****** rip
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Old May 13, 2020 | 11:32 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by bealljk
I believe you can as well but be very very careful which ECU you use as I believe you are in california? And I highly doubt a standalone will pass smog/emissions testing there.
I live in a smog exempt county, so no yearly checks. Only triggers would be sale of vehicle or citation by the commies sending the vehicle for ref inspection.
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Old May 14, 2020 | 07:56 AM
  #47  
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My new cable showed up last night at like 7pm... anyhow connected immediately... imagine that Uprev. Just took it for another drive and log this morning... she wants the green light to go! lol
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Old May 14, 2020 | 10:56 AM
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videos!!!???!!!

happy to hear she's up and running! glad the cable solved it!
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Old May 14, 2020 | 01:24 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by bealljk
videos!!!???!!!

happy to hear she's up and running! glad the cable solved it!
I'll have to put something up when things get more exciting. I don't really do Youtube videos etc very often. I have a short clip but watching myself shift at 4k is pretty boring... lol
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Old May 17, 2020 | 10:54 AM
  #50  
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Been running the car the last few days, about two logs/re-tunes a day. First pull to redline blew a boot at 15psi. Got belt slip around 6,200 on most runs. Car makes a solid 12psi before slipping. I cranked the tension down some more this morning, but tuner only wanted the runs to 5k to start dialing the timing. I really like the linear power of the blower... but I'm not liking how loud the bypass valve is... my car sounds like a street sweeper! lol Anyone got any tricks to quiet it down? I do have one of those small mesh filters on the bypass valve.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 11:29 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
but tuner only wanted the runs to 5k to start dialing the timing.
sign of a good tuner...


Originally Posted by THIRZTY
. I really like the linear power of the blower...
Yea - I ran the ATI Procharger for a few years and it made boost at 1500rpm and climbed strong up to 14psi.

Originally Posted by THIRZTY
bbut I'm not liking how loud the bypass valve is... my car sounds like a street sweeper! lol Anyone got any tricks to quiet it down? I do have one of those small mesh filters on the bypass valve.
is it a recirculating bypass valve?

If you straight pipe right off the headers you will solve the noisy bypass valve
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Old May 17, 2020 | 12:06 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by bealljk
sign of a good tuner...

Yea - I ran the ATI Procharger for a few years and it made boost at 1500rpm and climbed strong up to 14psi.

is it a recirculating bypass valve?

If you straight pipe right off the headers you will solve the noisy bypass valve
Good to hear, I'm just doing what he tells me to do as I had absolutely no idea where to start tuning a N/A car switched to F/I.

Mine is making boost 3.5kish, but that's because of the lower compression engine as I understand it.

I have this Vortech bypass valve, that connects to manifold vacuum. You are saying running full straight pipe exhaust right? Yikes, I guess choose my poison then... street sweeper, or raspy eardrum killer.. lol


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Old May 17, 2020 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
You are saying running full straight pipe exhaust right?
jokingly
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Old May 17, 2020 | 02:08 PM
  #54  
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If it's feasible to recirculate it instead of venting the whistle will be a little subdued.

That didn't help much with this setup as someone, in their infinite wisdom, ordered a straight cut T trim instead of a Q(uiet). I, uh, definitely don't recommend it. Although, I never got challenged at a street light on account of the cacophony.



393 Windsor w/Vortech T trim.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 06:31 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Zelduh
If it's feasible to recirculate it instead of venting the whistle will be a little subdued.

That didn't help much with this setup as someone, in their infinite wisdom, ordered a straight cut T trim instead of a Q(uiet). I, uh, definitely don't recommend it. Although, I never got challenged at a street light on account of the cacophony.



393 Windsor w/Vortech T trim.
Nice man. I just sold my old 351w to a friend for his early bronco. It came out of my offroad racer and had been sitting in my garage for way too long. I love ford small block sounds... thought about putting it in the Z... lmao but all that thing ever did was break transmissions every 100mi on the money.
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Old May 17, 2020 | 06:44 PM
  #56  
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Well looks like I'm running out of fuel up top and need to make a decision. More injector or change the pulley? Currently have a 2.87pulley on, 750cc injectors, 340lph fuel pump and CJM fuel system with return. Getting into 100%+ duty cycle starting in the upper 5k range. I was never really out to make max power... but I've also got a built engine and throwing my 3.33 pulley on there seems lame at this point. The car is already pretty rowdy and we're not finished tuning. I'm leaning towards doing a 3.12 pulley and hoping I still have enough fuel... thoughts? ideas?
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Old May 17, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
Well looks like I'm running out of fuel up top and need to make a decision. More injector or change the pulley? Currently have a 2.87pulley on, 750cc injectors, 340lph fuel pump and CJM fuel system with return. Getting into 100%+ duty cycle starting in the upper 5k range. I was never really out to make max power... but I've also got a built engine and throwing my 3.33 pulley on there seems lame at this point. The car is already pretty rowdy and we're not finished tuning. I'm leaning towards doing a 3.12 pulley and hoping I still have enough fuel... thoughts? ideas?
The old-adage is that you shouldnt be above 85% duty cycle...so if you are hitting 100% at 5k RPM its down hill from there. You'll have pretty-good resale value on those 750s and I would get 1000cc to 1300cc. Upgrade the injectors and maximize/optimize the build. You wont regret it.
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Old May 18, 2020 | 06:44 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by bealljk
The old-adage is that you shouldnt be above 85% duty cycle...so if you are hitting 100% at 5k RPM its down hill from there. You'll have pretty-good resale value on those 750s and I would get 1000cc to 1300cc. Upgrade the injectors and maximize/optimize the build. You wont regret it.
yOu'Re A bAd InFlUeNcE! lol
I was looking for the easy way out, which isn't always the right way. I'm in this sooo deep right now... I guess if I up size injectors, it keeps my options open.
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Old May 18, 2020 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by THIRZTY
I was looking for the easy way out, which isn't always the right way. I'm in this sooo deep right now... I guess if I up size injectors, it keeps my options open.
Easy gets you a lean condition at the worst possible time and you detonate and destroy the engine.

do it nice or do it twice!

I think you'll be able to sell your 750cc for $200 to $300 and 1000cc are in the neighborhood of $700 … it could be worse!
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Old May 18, 2020 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bealljk
Easy gets you a lean condition at the worst possible time and you detonate and destroy the engine.

do it nice or do it twice!

I think you'll be able to sell your 750cc for $200 to $300 and 1000cc are in the neighborhood of $700 … it could be worse!
Yeah I know you're right... I'm always saying "do it right, or do it twice"... and welp, here I am... ****** rip. My tuning guy wants me to get ID1050x injectors.
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