It was running super rich from trying to add fuel up top with the old fuel pump. Part throttle acceleration was really bad... but that was quickly adjusted.

 

So I went out to flash a new tune and run the car again last night. Noticed an oil leak... investigate it further and the brass tee for the oil feed/sensor cracked and basically broke off when I touched it. I was super cautious when I installed this, started loose and tightened it in small increments until each fitting stopped leaking. It's been fine for weeks and all of the sudden this... wtf? Fortunately I caught this before going out and running the car hard... that could have been all bad! Anyways, going to get a replacement today hopefully so I can keep logging runs. But is there a better way to tap for an oil feed and oil sensor than this?

 

If the port is BSPT and you're using an NPT adapter, this can be the result.

HTH

 

I don't think it has different threads. That tee fitting came from Vortech... the best I can tell, it was the same thread as the oil pressure sensor and 1/8 npt.

I didn't like that tee when I installed it and was skeptical of it. I searched around and found where others were getting their oil feed from the port above the oil filter. So I cut/drilled/tapped out my oil temp sensor to get oil from there. But I didn't know the car would back timing way off without it so now I've got to relocate my oil temp sensor somewhere... Does anyone know what the thread pitch is on the oil temp sensor? I had to order one and uh ruined mine already.

 

Well... feeling pretty bummed. We've been tuning and running the car hard the last couple days. Got fueling dialed and working on dialing in the timing. My car friggin rips! Just got home and when the engine came down to an idle I had no oil pressure... as in light came on! I literally just changed the oil Friday and I've been checking my oil level before every run. Yesterday it blew oil out the AN fitting on the passenger valve cover because it had loosened up. I tightened that and cleaned everything up. I've got oil all over the passenger valve cover and down again... I dunno wtf. Time to tear into and figure out what's going on... I'm afraid I already know what this means though.

 

how long did you run the car with the oil light on?

Here did oil come spewing out of? AN fitting on the valve cover?

Can you? have you? drained the oil left in the pan?

Any weird engine noises?

ohhhhh boy ...

 

Put it all back together, fill with oil, START and check Oil Pressure. You May be OK. If nor Oil Pressure, Shut down ASAP

 

If the warning light popped on usually you have alittle bit of run time before you cause serious damage... how much run-time? debatable...

but only one way to find out ...

 

Ok, sorry I was mad and just closed up the garage last night to think stuff over.
So I had noticed the oil pressure looked low at idle once the car had been warmed up and driven around... it was still reading oil pressure though with no light. The other day I was doing a run for some logs and noticed oil smell and oil smoke behind the car, immediately chilled out and took it home. Upon inspection I found the fitting I have screwed into the passenger valve cover to run a hose to a catch can had come loose. Tightened it up, cleaned all the oil off the engine/underneath and carried on. Yesterday when I took the car out again for some logs, I again smelled oil and saw oil smoke behind the car... turned around and went home. It had oil pressure the whole time, when I stopped in front of my garage and let the car idle is when I noticed oil pressure dropped to ZERO and the light come on. Shut it off and pushed it in the garage.

Got home from work today, checked the oil level... perfectly full and clean. There is oil spray that all seems to be originating from the passenger valve cover... I think it's blow-by and excessive crank-case pressure? I have both valve covers ran to a baffled catch can, the outlet from the can is tee'd back into the vacuum line off the intake manifold that is also ran to the Vortech bypass valve. So it's a closed system. Did I screw up here? I think the low oil pressure at idle is still bad and probably requires a tear down.

 

Run a line from each Valve cover to the catch can, that's all.

 

OMG my engine seems to be fine! So last night I checked the catch can and found it was completely full of oil. Drained it and vented the outlet to atmosphere and capped off the vent line to the intake I previously had it connected to. Fired the car up and monitored oil pressure at idle for 30mins.
At Startup I have 90psi
After 5 mins I have 58ish psi
At 13 mins I have 28ish psi, engine temp 200* (fans on) oil temp 160*
At 30 mins I have 15psi, engine/oil temp 200ish*
Went for a short and easy test drive, car held 15psi at idle when I returned home.

I'm not sure I understand how the catch can made my oil pressure read wrong... but that appears to have been the issue.

 

did you re-check the catch can? any more oil in it?

 

I did and it wasn't filled up with oil.

 

good good good! happy to hear!

 

Some updates:
I removed my 'Nim-rod' setup and installed a 'Tim-Rod'. Very nice setup and my hood closes properly now! lol
Few days ago my tuner was done with fueling adjustments and we had started on timing. Car had been running great and then during one of my runs the car fell on it's face and I was confused about what was wrong for a min. After some messing around I figured out the car all of the sudden was running lean. Loaded a fat tune back on the car and babied it home. Checking codes and the logs showed bank 1 was lean. Checked for some obvious stuff and determined the issue must be with the injectors. I had just had the oil BS so I was suspicious about oil in the connections creating an issue and I was right it seems. I disassembled the fuel injector connections and cleaned them. I also found a few bare wires and one connector with both wires exposed right next to each other. I repaired everything best I could and ran the car again, all good... wheew. James is sending me another fuel injector harness I'm going to cut and install the injector dynamics connections onto and eliminate my adapter harnesses'. Hopefully that cleans things up for good. Also posed for a couple photos during one of my 'drives'.

 

Picked up a new/never installed bumper cover. It's not exactly what I want.. but it'll work for now.



Still having a lean issue... so I dug in again and cut up the oem harness and installed the Injector Dynamics connectors directly to it and eliminated the need for adapters.



Car was good for a couple hours and then would go lean again... finally threw a bank 1 sensor 1 o2 code... so I replaced that.



Just did a 2hour test drive this morning and no issues... hopefully I've got it resolved now. Going to the dyno on Wednesday!

 

let me know if you need other wire-harness related items ... In for results!

 

Tested out my launch control... pretty cool, once I've got better tires I'm gonna figure out the best rpm to launch at. These tires don't hookup at all lmao

 

Rear bearings have been hummin' for awhile... finally replacing them.



Passenger side was seized to the rotor and would not come off... had to push it out on the press. Bearing had play in it too, the drivers side did not.



Drivers side done



Passenger side installed



Floating car!



One of the sway bar end links came loose and ovaled out the hole... threw a couple farm welds on it.


Lastly my dyno day is cancelled because the new o2 sensor I bought already took a crap. AFR's are all over the place in the logs and my AFR gauge is going crazy. Nobody has oem sensors anywhere near me... I had to order and now I wait... again.

 

Weeks and weeks later... after chasing my tail with this car, I finally figured out what in the hell was going on. One plugged cat and one already burnt out. These were Z1 HFC's I had put on when I got the car running after the engine build. I put about 25k mi (n/a) on them and I never expected them to be the cause of my problems. I punched em out all the way, re-installed and drove the car to confirm. Ordered test pipes to replace them so I don't have to deal with this again. I have a Tanabe exhaust system with the big muffler so rasp shouldn't be an issue.