Id consider ID 1300s if the price jump isn't too that much more...nothing would be worse than being 100ccs away from your peak output.

For what it's worth … at 14psi, 100% throttle, around 4500-5000rpm, Im running a 39% duty cycle on my ID1000s.

I think superchargers are going to make less power for the same amount of fuel flow compared to a turbo...

 

Ya know it's better to have and not need than the inverse.

 

They’re just so freaking thirsty.

I keep changing my mind on power goals that 2200cc seemed necessary. Glad I did too.

So +1 on the ID1300

 

I think the amount of power required to spin the charger setup robs the crank of power...

Nothing against your build, 0Taku, but I think you'll be robbing the crank of so much power by the time you spin the blower how fast it needs to spin to see your boost level that it's not worth the losses. You'll be making 1000hp to see 700hp … just my 2cents and I hope I'm wildly wrong and want nothing but the best for your build!

 

I'm talking with my tuner of going a different route.

I'd rather not give details until I start buying and piecing it together, but I'm sure it'll throw people off.

 

electric supercharger! I knew it!

keep us posted - I think you do good stuff

 

Well I went with the ID1050x's sorry lol, 1300's were almost $600 more. Anyhow, tuner said the 1050's would work, I even asked him again before I purchased them. I don't want to **** my guy off so I'm sticking with what he's telling me to run. Injectors are here... but the harness' to hook them up with out cutting are coming separately so I can't do anything yet.

 

Don't apologize to us, apologize to your blower that is working soooooo hard and doesn't get the fuel it needs!

Its wise to listen to your tuner and I'm sure you'll be fine!

Let us know how it turns out!

 

LOL yeah I've learned there's a few specialists you just do what they say... like engine machinists and transmission builders for example... life is much better that way.

I can't wait to see what it's got... our plans are to get it pretty close with street tuning and then I'll schedule a dyno day. I originally went this route because the closest dyno is over an hour away and I don't have a way to tow my car. That shop is Subaru specialists but check out what they posted yesterday...

 

Seems a lot of people are cautious and going low compression. I’m trying to boost to hell on 11:1.

 

LOL well I'm low comp because I was going to do turbo. Found a deal (aka headache of a vortech kit) and didn't know the trend was to go high comp with a SC. Anyhow, I'm ok with it.

Got the ID1050's installed, but the car is being pissy at startup/idle. Did some live remote tuning this morning and my guy said we're probably going to have to rebuild the file from scratch.

 

start-up and idle is a struggle (generally speaking) while tuning a VQ.

 

That's what my tuner at Z1 told me for my V3. They have a solid rep.

 

Off and running now... did another remote login/live tune and got the startup/idle worked out. Back to doing run/log revise, repeat. Car definitely moves...

 

Welp... spoke too damn soon. Seems my fuel issues are actually lack of fuel pump, the dw 340lph isn't enough. Just setup my gopro under the hood and took the car for a run. Drops to 20psi at WOT at about 3.5k rpms.

So I just read your thread bealljk and saw this post about upgraded wiring/relay https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...l#post10972956 This is pretty straight forward, something I can definitely handle and I've done stuff like this on my old race car.
What pump should I go with that's going to fit in the oem basket? Walbro 450 I assume. Looking on CJM right now..

 

them superchargers get hungry!!

what post number are you refering to on my build(top right corner of the post has a number)? It only takes me to page 22

It's not hard, just use caution when you're removing the basket and be careful disconnecting clips/hoses/wires as the plastic is brittle.

You will also need to hard-wire your pump to the battery via a relay. I think I outlined it well (or well enough) in my thread but dont hesitate to reach out.

Your options are a 450lph or a 525lph hellcat - either will swap in just fine and theyre both around $120 to $150

 

Yeah... guess I should have kept my 'THIRZTY' license plates... all the car wants is oil,gas&*** lol

post 636, I bookmarked the direct link... guess the forum doesn't like it. It's the post with the relay diagram, I did quite a bit of relay work like this on my old racecar because I didn't want high load wires in certain places. Unfortunately fires taught me the hard way to be more cautious.

I've already had the basket apart myself installing the 340 pump and return setup... but yeah it seemed pretty fragile. The 450 and 525 look the same externally... looks like they're secured with a hose clamp because of the larger base?

 

Gotcha ... hat-tip to the guys that helped me with that install. she's thirsty!!!!

I would highly recommend that you buy a relay-holder ... initially I just used spade connectors and heat shrink but I definitely shorted out the 12volt battery wire a few times. I also made sure to relocated the relay away from the tank enclosure - but you probably know better (and if theres a better way please post it ... Ill copy your idea!)

Yea, I did the 450lph install and then ran the car for a few weeks (spun a bearing) and sold my fuel kit. I subsequently installed a 525 and they were all the same.

 

So I found a Walbro 525 new from a seller on ebay. Ordered the wiring from CJM. I started the wiring install last night and finished with installing the fuel pump this morning. I tried to get pics of everything... hope I did this right. Fitting that Walbro in there was kinda tedious but it's done. Took it for a test drive and the old tune was fawked... We just revised the tune and I just did another test drive and it's way better. wheew. I'm gonna need some new tires soon... is my car supposed to spin the tires in 3rd at 50mph+??? lmao

 

iffffffffff it was me ... I would locate your relay outside and multiple layers away from your fuel tank ... mine is located up near the passenger side seatbelt top-bolt ... I dont know much but I know that gas fumes and high voltages/high amperage relays dont mix ... well.

But otherwise looks good!

why was your tune so messed up after the pump install?