Thanks James. I ordered a different fuel pump and returned the old one.
I also started looking into this: http://realdash.net/index.php

I think I am going to get an android tablet instead of like 4-5 guages. Will give me a lot more data and less wiring to do.

Things the ecu would report via OB:

• Coolant temp
• Oil pressure
• Vaccum
• Voltage
• A/F ratio (is this different from what a aftermarket wideband sensor would do?)

I am not sure if the stock ECU reports oil temps.

 

was the 320 about the same price as the 255?

I ran a 320 and I maxed it out at 568hp so you'll have plenty of pump for the distant future!

I'm not exactly sure if the OEM signal would support a wideband AF ratio read out. If you intend to tune off the aforemention AF signal I would get a dedicated sensor for the signal that your ECU is going to process and use to closed loop fuel control.

Tell me again - what are you tuning with?

 

The pump was only 15$ more.
Im using Osiris. Forgive my ignorance I know nothing about AFR and tuning.

 

cool cool

Only way is up from here(6 free lessons of the basics explained):
https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/ba...ng-fuel-tuning

 

Big weekend!

• Got engine back in
• Installed wire harness
• Installed test pipes
• Removed platstidip from body of car. (gasoline works a treat)
• took out door handles, mirrors, and door panels
• Installed new starter
• Gapped plugs
• Cut holes in hood for vents

This week plan to:

• Finishing up fuel system and pressure testing
• Some small paint items
• Vinyl wrapping the hood

 

Nice! great progress!

just curious - what did you gap your plugs to?

whats the plan with the hood vents? I think this is the best way to significantly reduce engine bay temps!!

 

Thanks! Im running NGK cold iridium. Gapped em to .25.
I bought some vents off of amazon that are stainless steel and made for a boat. They are long and skinnny (kinda 280z inspired) and thought they were pretty unique. Also sit right above the headers so hopefully will help. I plan on ducting the front bumper as well.

 

right on - sounds about right

nice on the vents … I've found that as you drive the airflow over your hood will pull hot air out of your bay. I'm interested to see how they look. I looked forever to find a set and couldn't find what I wanted and then just had my cut by a guy who owned a plasma-table.

 

.025" ? Way too Tight...... How to you get to that Gap? How much Boost are you running, 35PSI? 40PSI? MORE?

I'm at .032" @ 19-20psi

You want the very biggest gap you can run without spark blowout.

hope this helps

TimRod

 

The guy that was helping me said that's what I should put them to based on his build. But to be fair he's running a turbo. What would you recommend oldman? I am gonna be running the 2.87 pulley vortech V2 fully built motor with return fuel. The kit I have has the stock "waste gate". How many PSI should I go for?

 

**** was this me? Did I say put them at .025"?

I'm not as knowledgeable on the vortech as others but I think your limiting factor will be your injectors. I think theyre rated at/around 550cc?

So you are looking at/around 400hp-450hp? 450hp will be in the neighborhood of 10 to 12psi.

Are these one step cooler than OEM?

Maybe you gap them to .035 to .040" … I'd see what other Vortech guys are doing … just my 2cents

 

My 725's have me limited to ~550. For a blower I would suggest 1k's.

 

I always ran mine at .26-.28 on the gap. Never had an issue In all the years I’ve had this engine.

 

Got to give me more info about you're motor, CR?, Cams, Heads? Vortech Trim?, other pullies?

what does "Fully Built Motor Mean?"

what are you going to do with the car?

Fuel System? Type Fuel?

I'd like to help, but I have nothing to go by.

Plug gap is more or less related to Cylinder Pressure

 

That's one big'a gap 1/4=.25" lol

 

I'm building a track/drift car so I'm more concerned with reliability than huge horsepower numbers. But the more I can safely make the better. Pump gas, wossner heads, eagle hbeam rods, arp studs, billet girdle, stock compression, stock heads and cams but I did redo the valves. Return fuel system with gtr injectors (550?). Large plenum. Only aftermarket pulley is harmonic balancer crank pulley. V2 vortech with 2.95 pulley and large intercooler. That cover everything?

 

Hehe no it was my buddy Robert. They were the ones vortech folks recommended not sure how much cooler.

 

cool cool ... I bet they are one step colder (6AIX) which I think is the right move for anything under 20psi.

 

I might of missed a zero in there lol

 

Quick update.

• The Jig is up! The city gave me a warning about having a non functional/inoperable vehicle in my driveway. So I cleared out the garage and moved her in.
• Finished fuel system and tested. No leaks!
• Put on Plenum
• Ran rear coolant tubes and added bleeder valve
• Ordered a new AC condenser and mounted to a Mishi radiator I bought.
• Im tapping the sandwich plate for the SC oil but the line is literally like an inch short. Am I good here? See below. Else I was thinking to add an eblow.
• Im going to run 6an as an oil dump for SC. This is big enough correct?

Here are some pics. (really digging the mixed metal look).






*pics won't upload. I'll try again later.