Cedric Guerin

Hello all,

Long time lurker here. Car building bug has bitten hard and I have two projects on my hands that I sorta fell into.

So I originally bought a G35 aptly named Furiosa... Here she is:


Before and After:





After I bought this car on CL and got her looking decent. I decided to boost and build. This is my backup car from my truck so I only drive her about once a week. It works well because I have five year old twins so I needed the extra seats.

So heres how my build started:
I bought a used built engine (for $800) on FB that apparent threw a bearing....
Come to find out after I broke it all down that one of the pistons was fried. The block was no good and one of the cams and heads was toast. Looked like from oil starvation.

That was a big waste of time but I was able to salvage some good pieces off the engine:

• Sandwich plate
• z1 motor mounts
• z1 flywheel
• ARP head bolts
• All the tubing/piping
• one of the heads
• valve covers etc....
• Lower oil pans (tapped for oil return)
• AC compressor
• HR oil pump
• Rear timing cover

So I guess It was an ok deal. I ended up buying a vq on CL for $200 to cover all my extra parts I would need.
Pieced both engines together and took em to machine shop to have crank balanced and bearing installed. The only part I was really worried about screwing up.

Let the Fresh build begin:




Here is my parts list so far (mostly sourced from months on CL and FB):

• Eagle H beam Rods
• Wosner Pistons
• Cosworth Head Gasket
• ACL race bearings
• Billet Girdle
• Harmonic Balancer Pulley
• Vortech V2 SC (2.87 Pulley)
• Revup 2
• Mishimoto Radiator
• Mishimoto Intercooler
• Oil catch can
• Strup Headers
• Resonated Art Pipes
• z1 Coolant lines
• Big *** Plenum (cant remember brand)
• Cosworth Fuel Rails
• GTR injectors
• Upgraded Fuel pump

Here is my parts list and what I paid for them:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Trying to keep the entire build under 10k

So here is close to where it is.




Now here is where it gets interesting....

By complete coincidence my friend was selling his 350z. It was stuck at a mechanics and he didnt want to deal with it. (They couldnt get it to start)



So I bought it from him for $1500 and had it towed to my house. Figures I could get it running and just abuse it at the track or learn to drift.
Took me weeks to try and get it started... I changed out the gas and all the sensors and wire harness and finally got it running.

20 mins later I found out it has a blown head gasket

So now what to do? I have a dead 350z in my backyard and a running g35 along with an engine about 75% built.

I decided to switch gears and drop the motor in the Z and build a 2j down the road for the G. (she is my first love afterall)

So I got to photoshopping and built out what I want her to look like. I am calling her TheBride (Kill bill reference).
Here is what I hope she turns out to be....




I have a lot of questions still to have answered and figure out. I am running out of steam with this post hehe....

Things I need to figure out (so please any advise would be helpful):

• Stock clutch has a lot of life. Upgrade while I am in? What kind?
• I have a spare cd09 I was going to save for the 2j. Should I just drop it in the Z?
• Guages. Which should I get? Digital or analog?
• Fuel System: I have rails injectors and pump. Worth converting to return while I am at it?

That's all I have for now. Will hopefully be updating frequently.

Next step is getting the z in my garage and pulling the rest of old motor out.




Good times!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Looking good!!

focus on one thing at a time or nothing will get done.

Cedric Guerin

Purchased this today also with the parts for the clutch bleed mod.

Cedric Guerin

Finally was able to get back to work on the car last night. Wrapped and painted the headers.
Started bolting up the SC plate. Installed new plugs.

Cedric Guerin

Quick update:

• Installed JWT Flywheel
• Installed Vortech slip pulley mod.
• Took all the body panels off the Z

I'm concerned with how close the belt is to the cam cover.
Whats a better solve? Moving the jackshaft our a hair with a spacer? Filing down the cam cover? Or spacing the whole SC bracket out with a few washers? Any advice?

On a side note my truck blew up. So that's slowing down my build a bit.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

If these are the same distances then just file down the cover a little. K.I.S.S.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I think Conway had this issue too … I think he ground-down the cover a bit.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

I had to ground down my cover a bit and it still hits a little bit. I haven't have any problems yet but I need trim some more but as far as i know that's all you can do. Once i get home in a few days ill take a pic of mine or hell i may have sent one to Bealljk for guidance that he may still have.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

LOL, No one has asked but here is the story. When i was in High School i had some crazy hair and my Wrestling coach said i looked like Conway Twitty. So from that day forward coach called me conway and 160 was the weight class i wrestled.

bad boyz

iTrader: (1)

Mad photoshop skills!

Cedric Guerin

Thanks for everyones responses!

Here is the latest....

I got the car from out of the backyard and into the driveway!
Managed to pull the motor myself *pat pat* Now I need to clean and paint it all.
I swapped the pulley on the SC with the other one that I wasn't using and it magically cured that gap issue I was having.




Here is where I need some advice:
I am trying to figure out what to do with my fuel setup.
I picked up a used cosworth fuel rail set with a fuel pressure guage. I have GTR injectors. I also have a Walbro fuel pump that I need to drop in.
I am wondering if I should go return or not. I guess I would need lines, regulator and some fittings? Is it worth the money or is it pretty much mandatory if I am shooting for 450hp.
Basically is it worth it? Could i do regular and upgrade later or would I need a retune? I'd rather handle it now since I still have things apart.





On a side note I replaced my truck with this FJ. Just didn't feel like rebuilding it.

I am also looking into ordering some gauges. Can someone recommend the best bang for your buck on em?
- AF ratio
- Oil Pressure/Temp
- Coolant Temp

Anything else I should add? Is there like a tablet interface with all the guages anybody running. That would be sweet to have it all on one screen.

I'll have more updates soon as I have had more time to get after it.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Do it nice or do it twice...I would go return system with a fuel pressure regulator if you are gonna be using a larger fuel pump and running anything more than a few psi of boost

450hp is gonna be 10psi - you'll have 52psi pressure pushing through the injectors and 10psi of boost pressure pushing again them ... net result is 42 psi of fuel pressure at peak boost.

813_350Z

Clearwater, huh? Nice! I'm right across the bridge in Tampa. Can't wait to see how these turn out! It would be awesome to see them on the road.

Cedric Guerin

Ok. Consider me convinced

So I was thinking of a few options:

1. Just buy this kit. - $450
https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-s...de-p-9004.html

2. Create my own kit (using what i have so far) but buy these:
Venturi tube ($90)
https://conceptzperformance.com/cj-m...00_p_32612.php
Lines ($70): Regulator ($145): Misc fittings ($50)

I'll probably save $100 but not worth the hassle crimping all my lines. etc...
Just thought i'd share. Thanks.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I'd go with option #1 … Retrofitting the OEM basket isn't hard and you'll be in it anyways replacing the pump. Comes with everything you'll need, will compliment your fuel rails very nicely, and will be a complete solutions.

Cedric Guerin

Hey everyone. Quick update.

• I painted the engine bay with some "titanium" enamel. Love the color.
• Took out the clutch fork and slave cylinder (was rusted and leaking)
• ordered an aftermarket fork
• got my throwout bearing pressed at my machine shop

While I was there I had an interesting conversation with him (he builds race engines). I told him how i torqued the head studs to OEM specs despite being ARP. He said to NOT go back in and tighten them. He said what I did was pretty close to 90ft lb and that since ARPs don't stretch I probably torqued them to more that OEM spec. Tbh I had to put my shoulder into it so it definitely felt like more than 80 based on doing 75 for flywheel bolts. So I am gonna roll the dice and not go back in.

I however decided to redo my pilot bushing as I am paranoid that I marred the surface using a press.





As far as the Fuel system goes... Is the connection above an OK angle for the connecting hose. I have seen several different setups including 190 degree fitting sending two hoses back or through the front.
What is ideal here?



In this picture this is where the oil bung was welded in on the lower I bought. I know Vortech recommends putting it a a bit higher. Am I cool with it here for the SC oil tube?



I have some friends in town so my progress will be limited this weekend. Also can't finish engine or trans till my parts get here.

Thanks in advance.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I would probably be ok listening to that mechanic seeing that you aren't shooting for the stars. If it was me I would go back and tighten them to 95ft-lbs … in reality, if the mating surfaces are flush w/each other than you are probably ok. And if you have the heads off / engine apart you can always torque them to 95ft-lbs.

I would run your fuel line how CJM or other fuel setups are run and not how you have it pictured.

With your high capacity oil pan I think it's fine where it's at.

Cedric Guerin

Hello.

Quick update:

• Clutch fork and slave cylinder installed
• Redid pilot bushing and slapped on pressure plate
• Installed Willwood clutch bleed reservoir
• Cut some holes in the hood :P
• Cleaned and tested injectors
• installed fuel rails
• Ordered oil cooler
• Engine is ready to go in.

I took the fuel pump apart to install CJM bits and noticed that it was an STI fuel pump so probably rated around 145. I went ahead and ordered a Walbro 255 to pop in and need to resolder the connections.

Im looking at guages now and I am struggling. There isnt much variety out there and the ones I am finding are pretty damn expensive.

This little thing looks interesting:
I am leaning towards getting They do pressure and temp so I'd get oil and . Is coolant pressure even a valuable stat?
I was also gonna get an AF meter. Any advice here?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Send the 255lph back and get a 320lph at a minimum ... they are the same body and will install the same way an OEM does.

As far as gauges go (and much of life) you get what you pay for. The 4 in 1 setup looks fine but it doesnt pass my sniff test. At $22 it might be worth the gamble. I would not rely on it if you intend to tune off of it or if you rely on any of it's signals. I find it funny that they mis-labelled the sensors...

my 2cents