All really good points ... I appreciate your opinions & thoughts Otaku

It may not be - I dont have any significant data that say it is. But when you look at the JZ engine, the LS, and the HR/VHR all have very stout bottom ends ... much more fortified that what the DE has. For $300 you can fortify the DE's bottom end is worth it to me.

You can download their software for free and poke around in the software. The downside to Link vs. Haltech is the software is much more complicated (from my point of view, I havent seen any new / newer Haltech Management Software) but it took me a little time to get used to it. But they have top notch customer support and the 'help' menu in the Link is absolutely hands down amazing ...

I hit 568 on my DW 320lph, I subsequently put a 525lph in my OEM basket (althought its flowing throught the OEM 5mm connection) ... it sounds like OP already has this basket though.

All valid statements ... If would keep the low comp pistons and run gasoline.

agreed ... many people use E85 with uprev but I think they it's a gamble and a compromise.

Ok good! I was gonna worry - If you can swing it, put Kinugawa turbos in the car ... Alot of subaru guys, S13/S14 guys, and myself included used them and they are pretty good. Solely in my opinion, Its a massive PITA to remove twins if/when something goes wrong. And pushing the blowers to 16psi to 18psi, something will go wrong ... I think a .63 AR is about right - I'm no expert but see if you can reference what a greddy/mitsubishi 18g or 20g blower is equivilent to? I believe the 18g is a .49AR - from here:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm#tn

if you can confirm this I might consider dropping each blower down to .5 to .55 as the greddy/mitsubishi are fully capable of hitting 600.

always a smart move ... I clean/flow test each time I take my block down ... a faulty injector can ruin your weekend.

$1100 sounds like a good deal for a standalone...do you have emissions requirements?

Cool - it's not hard but it is time consuming ... while the engine is out, look into solid engine mounts and a poly transmission mount.
Also factor in a transfluid change (you probably already factored this in)

I always go with OEM ... in reality, no head gasket is going to save you from a bad tune or detonation ... I also have my heads machined, cleaned, and spark plug threads chased when the heads come off.

It looks good...I like that nothing on the car is extreme, love the RPF1s and spoiler too! you did good. And thanks ... I've bleeding the coolant system now and if I can build this turbo setup for a buddy's G35 I'll take that cash and use it for my tune.

well see how the turbo setup performs ... when I sold my greddy twins, I made a point to eliminate as much exhaust pipe volume and intake volume(to reduce compression lag) and get a legit ball-bearing turbo. It just made sense to do a front mount/reversed header setup. The major downside is that I'm very front-heavy ... I think I'm lighter than the greddy setup but my 'center of mass' is infront of the engine (which I dont like).

 

Still it's pretty unique that it's got its own boost a pump system. Damn thing goes up to 620lph for a single pump that requires no modifications.

 

I definitely know theres better options now. At the time I really should have done more research before buying the twin pump basket. However I did get a good deal on it for sure.

I don't have emissions, and a buddy of mine does my inspections so I stay catless, with heavy window tint, and dump my pvc to atmosphere lol.

I didn't mean head gaskets, I meant exhaust header/manifold gaskets. I already have an hks head gasket in the block right now.

Perhaps you can make multiple kits like that, maybe one of these days I'll switch to your single setup to try to make big power.

I see what you mean with weight distribution, maybe put your battery and radiator in the back.

 

It's all good and the twin pump basket is the 'right' way to do it ... so keep it and run with it.

OEM gaskets are fine...

I couldnt replicate the headers as they are very specific to my application. Power steering delete, no AC, heavily modified radiator/shroud setup, no structural bumper, etc ...

If someone really really really wanted this engine/turbo/header/exhaust setup, I'd sell it but it would come with a clean title, gutted 350z.

I ran a battery in the trunk and it didnt work well for me ... I think I lost charge due to the length of wire between the battery and the fuse block. Further, it's an 11lb battery mounted in the passenger side footwell.

radiator to the trunk??? Hmmmmmm...has potential

 

I knew you probably had to remove ps pump but didn't remember that ac condenser is in the way too, for a daily I need my ac lol. Still impressive the amount of work that has gone into your z, I really love it.

Why did you make the switch from haltech to link?

 

I removed AC a long time ago ... Im much better with extreme heat than I am extreme cold - just wired that way. Further, this isnt a daily, so its not a big deal...I hear ya though!

I was running a platinum piggy back and it had a few inherent issues picking up the camshaft sensor signal and it'd turn VTC off (which was a 80 to 100ft-lbs loss as it happened on the dyno a few times). I'm sure theyve corrected this by now. But my older haltech didnt have the newer features that modern standalones have. Link also has 5 or 6 sensor inputs that can safeguard the engine in the case of a given parameter falling out of tolerance - meaning if fuel or oil pressure suddenly falls, or if coolant pressure spikes (although if this happens it's already too late). So I can setup tables to restrict the engine speed if something goes unexpected.

A fellow member recommended the link and I used the same tuner and had a pretty good experience. Also price point, I sold my circa 2009 haltech, wideband controllers, and other goodies for $1200 or so? maybe $1300?(I dont remember) and the Link with a semicustom base map was $1300. I purchase some nice AEM pressure sensors, used my AEM UEGO for wideband fuel control, and an autometer fuel pressure sensor.

It should be stated that Im comparing apples to oranges ... Im comparing an ECU from 2009 to an ECU from 2017 ... I'm sure haltech has some if not all the newer features but I cant find anyone that runs their higher-end ECUs (say, the Elite and above). To that point, I'm sure the Elite does have similar features but is also three times the price...so??

do your research, talk to people that have real world experience with either.

 

I'm continuing my research, and after playing around with the software link seems to be what I'm leaning towards, you're converting me lol. But because it's not used as much the haltech it's harder to find vq specific info, and it definitely seems complex, especially to a complete tuning newbie like me.
Do you run boost by gear?

Also, yes I have poly trans and engine mounts as well. Hopefully the vibrations aren't too bad.