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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 02:42 AM
  #1  
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Default Just starting out, Newbie questions

So I got my flame suit on and I apologize in advance if I am asking redundant questions. Understand Please that I am a newbie and have learned everything I know about the VQ35DE in the past few weeks, other than the fact it's a 3.5. I drive an 04 350z Touring MT with 78k. I went over all the forums and got a lot of great insight but still have a few questions on my specific build that I 'think' I would like to do. Please correct me along the way if I'm saying something wrong like vtec or something.
First off I have bassani exhaust, injen cai, and a moterdyne 3/8" plenum spacer. I know I'm probably pushing stock numbers still my goal is to go above 600rwhp even if I dyno it at 600.1hp I know this will cost money and time but I still want to get into it.

First thing, obviously I need to get forged internals, arias pistons I believe are the best for our cars? Now if I eventually want to go to a F/I TT setup I need to change the compression ratio to either 8.5:1 or 9.0:1. Also I would get the Darton sleeves which can be bored anywhere from the stock size of 95.5mm to a large 100mm bore. Now I talked to Elmer at Arias and he said they can custom make the pistons to 100mm and still keep the stock stroke. Then I would just get eagle or BC rods and keep the stock crank since its forged from the factory. But is boreing the engine to a VQ38 the best thing to do? And can I run this F/I compression ratio on my car N/A while I'm waiting to get turbos? Assuming I don't care about gas mileage. Also even If I get those sleeves, will the block be fine? What am I overlooking?

Now this next part is where I got confused the most. Cams, I want to go with the BC stage 3 272° cams. Now I understand that I'll have to get upgraded springs and a tune, but do I need other things for that aggressive of a cam? And with that compression ratio would I need different valves or valve lengths? That whole part was confusing for me. Upgraded oil pump maybe? Still trying to run this before F/I setup

Can I run larger injectors like 750cc before it's F/I ?
Can I put a duel fuel pump in before?
I'll do fuel return with the turbos

Stand alone EMS is way to exspensive, plus I think those only apply to quad digit hp cars, so I want to eventually go with the greddy EManage Ultimate. Or can I get away with just a Ecu tune even after turbos?

As far as I am in this idea I have is there some things Iv missed that would be necessary? Otherwise than like the ARP bolts and gaskets and stuff.
I know it's very vague but I'm just starting to get my head wrapped around this whole VQ35DE idea and I love it. Any suggestions or comments?
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:14 AM
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This is NA section, probably should ask this in FI section. You will lose power running low compression on a non-FI car. Oversized bore might make up for it though some, but probably still be slow. If you go 100mm, then yes sleeve it for sure. I think you'll be running out of cylinder wall thickness if you ever need to re-bore/hone the engine though. Sleeves are a must for that size I am pretty sure. Also, 100mm is probably unnecessary for 600whp.

JWT cams, are probably your best bet for this motor. They also offer a spring/shim kit. C8s (272dur/12.01mm lift) are as high as you can go without head work for can lobes. Kelford makes good cams I've heard too, but no experience there.

750cc NA I think will be too much, OEM is 290cc (330cc at our fuel px). GTR injectors are direct drop in 570cc, and some people run them on NA 370z's, so I am sure it would work NA on a 350z too. Dual fuel pump? Sounds unnecessary.

You will definitely need a tune to get any of this running well NA. I know people use uprev/Osiris/ECU re-flash on some FI setups, but I'm sure it has it's drawbacks/limits, and for your goals sounds like it won't be ideal. You can't afford a standalone? What's your budget for all of this?

Last edited by mcarther101; Oct 24, 2013 at 03:16 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mcarther101
This is NA section, probably should ask this in FI section. You will lose power running low compression on a non-FI car. Oversized bore might make up for it though some, but probably still be slow. If you go 100mm, then yes sleeve it for sure. I think you'll be running out of cylinder wall thickness if you ever need to re-bore/hone the engine though. Sleeves are a must for that size I am pretty sure. Also, 100mm is probably unnecessary for 600whp.

JWT cams, are probably your best bet for this motor. They also offer a spring/shim kit. C8s (272dur/12.01mm lift) are as high as you can go without head work for can lobes. Kelford makes good cams I've heard too, but no experience there.

750cc NA I think will be too much, OEM is 290cc (330cc at our fuel px). GTR injectors are direct drop in 570cc, and some people run them on NA 370z's, so I am sure it would work NA on a 350z too. Dual fuel pump? Sounds unnecessary.

You will definitely need a tune to get any of this running well NA. I know people use uprev/Osiris/ECU re-flash on some FI setups, but I'm sure it has it's drawbacks/limits, and for your goals sounds like it won't be ideal. You can't afford a standalone? What's your budget for all of this?
With the compression, that's fine if I lose power, I'm building it up anyway, and I know 100mm is a bit excessive, but the way I see it is, while I'm down there, why not.
I did also look at those JWT 272° cams, so all I would need is that spring and shim kit as well?
Injectors, alright I'll go lower until I actually do F/I, and the fuel pump is unnecessary but can I do it n/a cause remember I'm trying to build up to F/I
And with this project I don't really have a limit, it's just save and buy as I go. I make about 4k a month, so after bills maybe 3 so really how fast I do this is dependent on how much alcohol I decide to cut back on lol. Stand alone just seems to much, or is it necessary to hit my 600 goal?
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Blainerie
So I got my flame suit on and I apologize in advance if I am asking redundant questions. Understand Please that I am a newbie and have learned everything I know about the VQ35DE in the past few weeks, other than the fact it's a 3.5. I drive an 04 350z Touring MT with 78k. I went over all the forums and got a lot of great insight but still have a few questions on my specific build that I 'think' I would like to do. Please correct me along the way if I'm saying something wrong like vtec or something.
First off I have bassani exhaust, injen cai, and a moterdyne 3/8" plenum spacer. I know I'm probably pushing stock numbers still my goal is to go above 600rwhp even if I dyno it at 600.1hp I know this will cost money and time but I still want to get into it.

First thing, obviously I need to get forged internals, arias pistons I believe are the best for our cars? Now if I eventually want to go to a F/I TT setup I need to change the compression ratio to either 8.5:1 or 9.0:1. Also I would get the Darton sleeves which can be bored anywhere from the stock size of 95.5mm to a large 100mm bore. Now I talked to Elmer at Arias and he said they can custom make the pistons to 100mm and still keep the stock stroke. Then I would just get eagle or BC rods and keep the stock crank since its forged from the factory. But is boreing the engine to a VQ38 the best thing to do? And can I run this F/I compression ratio on my car N/A while I'm waiting to get turbos? Assuming I don't care about gas mileage. Also even If I get those sleeves, will the block be fine? What am I overlooking?

Now this next part is where I got confused the most. Cams, I want to go with the BC stage 3 272° cams. Now I understand that I'll have to get upgraded springs and a tune, but do I need other things for that aggressive of a cam? And with that compression ratio would I need different valves or valve lengths? That whole part was confusing for me. Upgraded oil pump maybe? Still trying to run this before F/I setup

Can I run larger injectors like 750cc before it's F/I ?
Can I put a duel fuel pump in before?
I'll do fuel return with the turbos

Stand alone EMS is way to exspensive, plus I think those only apply to quad digit hp cars, so I want to eventually go with the greddy EManage Ultimate. Or can I get away with just a Ecu tune even after turbos?

As far as I am in this idea I have is there some things Iv missed that would be necessary? Otherwise than like the ARP bolts and gaskets and stuff.
I know it's very vague but I'm just starting to get my head wrapped around this whole VQ35DE idea and I love it. Any suggestions or comments?
I wont flame you but you gotta search ...

600.1 hp will cost you $25k in just an engine/fuel management/ignition, another $10k in turbos, $3k in ECU, another $5k in supporting mods, since you don't know how to do this on your own it'll be another $15k in labor.

so you are going to drop $55k into a $10k car...makes no sense...and this car will not be nearly as reliable as it is now...it'll be in the shop more than it's on the road.

if you want that kind of power and have that kind of cash (cash, not credit) than go buy a GTR...
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bealljk
I wont flame you but you gotta search ...

600.1 hp will cost you $25k in just an engine/fuel management/ignition, another $10k in turbos, $3k in ECU, another $5k in supporting mods, since you don't know how to do this on your own it'll be another $15k in labor.

so you are going to drop $55k into a $10k car...makes no sense...and this car will not be nearly as reliable as it is now...it'll be in the shop more than it's on the road.

if you want that kind of power and have that kind of cash (cash, not credit) than go buy a GTR...
Not really. I just spent ~$5k in parts/labor for my built SOHO Motorsports shortblock installed. I could throw water/meth injection on it for under $1,000. A used vortech supercharger installed with 11:1 compression for $4,000. That's $10,000 for 600 reliable whp. I'm staying NA though, broke because $5k is a lot for me. At that point there'd maybe be a few unseen costs like oil coolers, radiator, and little things though too, but definitely not $25k in parts.

And yes, JWT cams just need spring/shim kit. Anything above C8 will require machine shop head work for cam lobe clearance. I have heard valve-piston clearance is fine until somewhere in the mid 12:1 area. Anything above 12:1 I personally would look into machining the pistons for additional clearance.

Also, at 289whp I am at 94% injector duty cycle... so if you are planning on over boring, and cams - you're going to need to upgrade your injectors. 290 (330cc) injectors cap out at ~300whp. RC440's can be found cheap (less than $200). GTR 570cc injectors can be found for less than $300.

Last edited by mcarther101; Oct 26, 2013 at 01:51 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 10:43 AM
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Wrong thread...

Last edited by thatv35guy; Feb 13, 2020 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 01:39 AM
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Lmfao

Last edited by DarkZ03; Feb 15, 2020 at 01:40 AM.
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:12 AM
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PSA. There's a lil time stamp upper left corner. This thred is 6 years old ; )
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mcarther101
That's $10,000 for 600 reliable whp
I'm intentionally bumping this old thread to shed light on what's needed for 600+ ... flame me or add to (NFG)

Block $5k - could be about right ... I'd like to see that build sheet - probably disassembled the bottom end and didnt touch the heads.
WMI $1k - yea, probably buy two setups for $1k
Vortec for $4k is reasonable
^^^You aint getting 600hp with only these adds...

Things you forgot...
probably need cams & headwork - call it $2k for cams/valves/springs/shims? and $2k for work/assembly?
1000cc injectors or better another $1k
Return Fuel System/Pump/Basket $2k
Clutch/Flywheel setup $1k
Standalone ECU and supports $2k
Cooling upgrades (radiator & oil cooler) $1k
Tuning $1k
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