SFR TT kit, running pte 5858's with 3 inch downpipes
Built bottom end, 8.5cr w/ stock bore
Stock nonrev heads/cams
Greddy 3 inch dual exhaust
Uprev
Pump 93
Twin pump 255 w/ fuel return
Id1050x

I know these questions get annoying, but I want to know if I need to upgrade to a stand alone and run e85 to reach 600whp. I realize the stock cams are definitely my limiting factor right now, but I can pick up a used haltech and run a flex fuel sensor for the price it takes to upgrade to cams. My longblock is already completed too, and I'm too lazy to wanna take it apart again lol.

 

Heads and injector combo are your limiting factors. With stock heads you need more boost. More boost means more fuel. IMHO you will be over 600 but your injectors will be at 75-80%

 

I agree with Conway but on a different direction. I think the heads will flow enough but your cams may be the limit. I wouldn't go and change them out quite yet.

I think 1050cc are ok for gasoline but if you want 600hp and E85 you'll need more injector … easily 1500 / 1700 / 2000 to be safe.

Built bottom end?? Define this better? Does this include L19 headstuds and ARP2k main studs? what bearings are you running? do you know your oil clearances? I would add dynosty main girdle too.

run an oil cooler

Yes, you will want a stand alone to do e85 right...Uprev is fine for mid builds on gasoline. E85, done right, will be outside of the realm of Uprev. You'll want something that monitors ethanol content and you'll want something that tunes off MAP (as opposed to MAF). You'll also want engine safe-guards, closed loop fuel control, better ignition control that basic Uprev can't offer.

 

I'm not a pro on engine building, but isn't that CR unnecessary? Someone with 600whp want to comment?

 

that makes two of us … Probably not … I run 9.1 : 1 … from my perspective, a lower CR just means your blowers have to work a little bit harder and/or your boost controller has a bigger role in the power you put down. I would probably favor a lower compression ratio (on a bigger HP build) and allow the boost controller to dictate boost levels which dictate power output.

At the end of the day, it's just a matter of how much air you shove in the cylinder and how much it's compressed

 

I would've done a higher cr for sure, but I purchased this block used with 10k miles on it lol. It has Arias pistons, pauter rods, and acl bearings. Arp mainstuds, and l19 headstuds. I don't know what girdle he used, but I figured the stock main girdle is going to be fine for 600's. The previous owner claimed he made 650whp with meth and greddy 20g turbos. And thanks for all the input y'all, i'm getting id2000's now. I'm on the hunt for a used haltech as well.

 

Is this a block from Import Parts Pro?

Who's the previous owner of this block / Greddy Kit?

consider a Link G4+ … it may be the same cost as a used haltech (and nothing wrong with Haltech) and may have just as many, if not more, features...I jumped from Haltech to Link and am happy with their ECU on the 350z.

 

The previous owner lives in Canada, his name is Tommy Gendron. He purchased a new vq35de from nissan and used it for the engine build. Never really looked into link ecu's, I'll do more research on them. Main reason I wanted to go with the haltech is because that's what everyone down at soho is familiar with. I'm sure they could work with it though. Honestly as long as it can work with flex fuel and boost by gear I'm sold.

 

You'd be okay with running 1000cc injectors and making 600whp on E85, you'll need a new fuel pump though, I'd run a Walbro/TI 525 pump and a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump. That pump will let you crank up your base fuel pressure to around 60 psi.
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Edit: I just noticed you've got dual 255's... can't really increase the fuel pressure with those since they've got a much lower pressure relief valve.

 

I should have been a little more specific, I meant cams not full on heads.

As for everything else i 100% agree with Beallijk said.

 

I'm already running a rev9 st as my daily, I have a thermostatic oil cooler and aem failsafe wideband with uprev. I'm hoping to be able to stay with pump gas and stock cams and uprev and make 600whp, lol but I'm prolly just dreaming. The sfr TT kit being tubular supposedly makes it easier to get hp, and having the 3 inch dual exhaust will help. Staying with uprev would be cheapest, but worse case scenario I discover I don't break 600's and I need to go with a different ECU to run e85. I found some used id2000's I'm trying to snag right now though, so that'll give me room for the future.

 

Can I ask a few questions -

Is the Rev9 kit a single turbo kit? front mount? rear mount? mid mount?

Do you own the SFR twin kit now?

is the built block installed in your car now?

Do you have the Greddy 3" dual exhaust on the car now?

what injectors do you have in the car now?

 

The rev9 kit is a copy of the turbonetics/treadstone kits, but I have a tial wastegate and pte 6266. These kits don't allow for any good hp numbers because of the up pipe being 2" and the downpipe being 2.5". I almost paid someone to fabricate a 2.5 inch up pipe and 3 inch downpipe but realized it would be easier to sell my kit and buy this used SFR kit, and I'd make more power with it. Found it used and getting it shipped to me. I'm tempted to run $100 ebay turbos, some people swear by them and I've seen really positive reviews on amazon. Worse case scenario I lose $200 lol. I don't have the exhaust on the car now. I have an isr single exit and 550cc injectors on my car rn. I have a stock block in the car right now, with 20k boosted miles and 112k total. I'm really not nice to it, I'm surprised it's still kicking. I thought 400whp would be enough for me but wasn't lol, I'm hoping 600whp isn't the same for me, but i'd prefer to be able to have the same mpg as I do now because it will hopefully still be a daily. I have an exedy twin disk clutch, probably overkill for my hp goals but I got it for extremely cheap. I follow you on instagram btw, mine is yag_de

 

I would start a build thread and do alot of research of what other members have done to achieve 600hp - no need to reinvent the wheel ... either this thread or start a new one

CX Racing and Kinugawa make really good budget turbos ... they wont last forever but you can push them to 14psi to 16psi to hit 600hp.

thank you for the follow - I'll get you back.

You need to answer and plan out the follow - I'll help as much as I can.

Do your best not to hurt your current engine ... you will need it to rebuild or at least a core deposit.

Goal:
600hp from a twin turbo setup

Need to buy:
-SFR Turbo Kit ($3k)
-Budget Turbos ($1k)
-1000cc injectors ($700)
-Return fuel system ($1k)
-Exhaust($1k)
-Oil cooler($200)
-Aftermarker ECU ($2k)
-Clutch / Flywheel Package ($1k)
-Built Block ($8k to $15k)


Need to sell:
-Rev9 Kit ($500)
-ISIS Exhaust($100)
-550cc injectors($200)

Other things to consider:
Tuning ($500 to $1k)
Install ($0 to $1k)
Fab Work ($1kto $2k)
Misc Stuff ($1k)

My last question is - do you want to blitz $15k to $20k for a car that makes 600hp?

 

I will tread lightly as the FI newb. Why not simply call Nick Soho or Jon @ Z1 and ask for a short consult? No offense to our talented foks here but you may gain some insight.

 

Youre a seasoned expert …

It's not a bad idea … I'll echo this idea and call Kyle at IPP too. Short consult for rough pricing and what you can expect. If nothing more you'll get a real good and wide range of opinions and options from people that are top of the game on the VQs.

I'm just a hack … don't listen to me!

 

I scan the hell out of fb marketplace, and found these parts for these prices. Of course used parts, especially like the used built engine I got, can be risky. But with all the money I've saved I could easily buy a new built longblock straight from an engine builder.

Need to buy:
-ebay Turbos ($200)
-ID2000cc injectors ($450)
-Haltech ECU ($1.1k)
-Tuning ($500-1k)
-Exhaust Fab Work ($200-400)

Already own:
-SFR Twin Turbo Kit ($3k, currently being shipped to me)
-DIY fuel return system, and 255 twin pump basket ($600)
-Greddy 3" true dual exhaust($275)
-Mishimoto thermostatic Oil cooler($500)
-Exedy twin disc clutch/Flywheel ($350)
-Used longblock w/ built bottom end and stock heads and cams ($2.6k)

This still adds up to 9575, which is definitely a lot of money compared to other platforms. The main reason I'm staying with this platform is nostalgia and wanting to accomplish something different. My G35 is my first car, I learned how to drive manual with it, and I'm such a sucker for this car lol. There are of course a lot of other parts I will be adding, but for now this is the meat and potatoes of everything. I appreciate different views from everyone, so thank you all for the help. I have talked with Nik at soho briefly, but haven't taken the time to really go over each detail. I hope to do that soon though

 

I'm one to hedge my bets...

If you go with a ebay / overseas turbo, buy them new ... you're doubling your risk by buying used ebay turbos ... serious, look at what CX Racing has for unbranded turbos - if you ask me, this is your best bet.

If you get used injectors make sure you trust the seller and get them clean and flow tested (maybe $150)...ask the seller to take $150 off the asking price to account for this.

what haltech are you looking at for $1100?? really look at link g4+ ... I paid $1300 for mine new and damn they have really good customer service ... I did subsequently spend another $500 in sensors to get most out of the ECU... but, do what your tuner is most comfortable with and Haltech is a great platform.

Do you intend to install the turbo kit yourself? Twins are one very very very labor intensive on both the install and the maintenance side - you're best bet is to pull the block and install then reinstall the engine (which you might have to do for the clutch/flywheel?) ... My greddy kit was nice (ehhhhh, enough?) but I'll never do another twin setup. If youre committed, youre committed...make the most of it.

I dont blame you for moving forward with this build - all bs aside, you have one the sexiest G35's I've seen(IMO) ... nothing on it is overstated and a 600hp engine will give you the best of both (show & go) worlds ... just know it'll be work, pain, blood, sweat, tears, money, feelings, emotions ... but if you're cool with it, dive in head first...it'll be the most rewarding journey of your life.

because you have 75% of the parts, it's my opinion that the big three wont be able to help you much ... your best resource is probably this forum.

 

If you’re only seeking 600hp, the billet girdle isn’t really necessary until you’re pushing past 800.

I also suggest looking into the Link G4+, the support/community is amazing. Honestly I don’t think a twin pump is necessary. Look into the new brushless pumps by Deatschwerks. I wish I knew about this before I dumped a lot of money into a twin pump.

https://www.deatschwerks.com/blog/de...and-controller

Personally I think you’ll hit 600hp without cams on e85 although your turbo efficiency won’t be at its best. (Honestly doesn’t really matter if you’re going eBay turbos anyways) I could be wrong because the very low compression might hurt.

I can attest to uprev being too stubborn on E85 on high power. Without flexfuel management, I’ve had too many problems with the tunes being unstable with any chance of a steady idle. (On 2200cc injectors)

Best of luck though, there’s a lot of boost gurus here that’ll help you out since a lot of them helped me as well.

 

I'm definitely not buying used ebay turbos. The ones I found were $100 a piece new, and have my desired .63ar exhaust size housing. Of course if these break my life won't be a complete pain however, because mid mount twin turbos can be removed fairly easily, and without having to pull the engine. Heres a link to the turbos I want to use, I'm just guessing on sizes. Let me know if you think I should go with a different size other than the .63:
I know a local shop that offers injector cleaning so I'll hit them up.

The haltech I was looking into was the platinum pro pnp standalone, seller said he'd ship for 1100. But y'all definitely got me considering the link. Still haven't gotten around to doing research on that yet, but I'll let you know what I decide.

I'm gonna be pulling my stock engine and tranny with a friend of mine who has done it a few times. I'm swapping in a cd009, even though my trans is doing well and not grinding I figured it would be worth it for me to make the upgrade.

What header gaskets do you recommend? I'm leaning towards oem.

I appreciate it! My g was vinyl wrapped as a diy project of mine, and I'm getting ready to change the color again because I'm getting bored of it lol. Your single turbo setup is easily the best design I've ever seen. Can't wait to see what kind of numbers you make.