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I hear ya on AC, yeah, and in Texas that's damn near a must!
I didnt care that they were mild steel! they were $70 or so? and had them in stock and mated up to the Sch10 pipe - good enough for me! Yea, I have some 3/16" 309 that I picked up off facebook market place to bridge the two.
I put about 15seconds worth of thought and a call into JGS (where I got my WG) and had a 5min convo to sort mine out.
I like it! I think you have your work cut out for you and you have a pretty good plan! In for results!
Explain where the waste gates will be located? I'm not 100% following you?
Yea, I put a 1/8" hole in my thermo plunger mostly to help bleed and to have a constant flow of coolant (as I removed that bypass pipe).
glad you mentioned the bypass pipe, I plan on making a custom feed plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate to replace the oem coolant piping on the drivers side cylinder-head but instead of deleting the bypass pipe i will use the port to supply water to the wastegates
its kind of hard to describe how I'm mounting the wastegates so i just went out into the garage and held them on the manifold in the general area where they will go and took pics for ya.
right now I'm waiting for a 45* 1.75od 11ga piece for the mounting the second wastegate, I want to tac them at the same time to make sure they end up level with each other
I gotcha ... is your turbo water cooled or just oil cooled?
I fed my blower from that coolant port as well, just welded a AN-8 male fitting on a plate. I strapped this plate down when I welded it and let it cool but it warped ever so slightly around the OEM gasket so I put a layer of coolant-rated RTV on it and it sealed up. It was a botch remove, drain coolant, clean, and then reinstall ... maybe consider doing the same? I also did this with the thermostat housing just to be sure it sealed - I can access it from behind the exhaust runners but it's still a hassle.
I think this is pretty standard to feed from this port.
the S362 SX-E is oil cooled only
hmm that's interesting I wasn't thinking about warp maybe i will just tap the plate and use a npt to AN fitting instead of welding
hmm that's interesting I wasn't thinking about warp maybe i will just tap the plate and use a npt to AN fitting instead of welding
In my mind, that's one more fail-point and I would weld it like you mentioned - I think that's the right move. But, hell, I vice-gripped it to a 1/4" piece of stainless, I tried not to put too much heat into it, and let it cool naturally and it still leaked … wasn't but a drip a minute and RTV'ing-it sealed it up fine - but that was my experience. It cost me a day or so worth of work (and when I was doing this I was extremely time crunched already). good stuff, keep up the Lord's work!
In my mind, that's one more fail-point and I would weld it like you mentioned - I think that's the right move. But, hell, I vice-gripped it to a 1/4" piece of stainless, I tried not to put too much heat into it, and let it cool naturally and it still leaked … wasn't but a drip a minute and RTV'ing-it sealed it up fine - but that was my experience. It cost me a day or so worth of work (and when I was doing this I was extremely time crunched already). good stuff, keep up the Lord's work!
Looking good - excited to see how things come together!
expect a lot more pics soon, I’m waiting for a new turbine housing, I originally started with a 1.10 a/r housing but I was concerned that with the 1.10 it would take too long to spool-up so I ordered a new turbine housing that is .91 a/r and decided to get it ceramic coated at the same time. Also according to borg Warner’s match bot program I will be closer to the center of the compressors efficiency map with the .91 a/r housing
.91 a/r and decided to get it ceramic coated at the same time.
I think this is a smart move … a .91 will spool very fast (especially how close the turbo is to the exhaust valves) and for your power goal you'll be fine. 550hp will be 15 psi or so and you'll hit that (I speculate) around 3k to 3.5k rpm with a little bit of engine load.
Started shaping the passenger side turbo manifold
I’m critically low on argon right now so I plan to fab everything up and then I’ll weld it up at work so I can take advantage of the free gas to backpurge.
I also removed the glove compartment, I plan to relocate the battery there along with the additional electronics and I already have 0/0 gauge wire running there for both positive and negative. And then I’m going to put the surge tank and fuel pump where the oem subwoofer would go. I sealed the subwoofer compartment years ago with sheet metal and fiberglass When I was using it for an aftermarket subwoofer and since it’s sealed off should be the best place for the fuel components
Are you making this into a log style manifold due to space constraints?
What is the plan to limit the heat build up under the hood?
you hit the hammer right on the nail especially on the drivers side where i have the manifold, turbo, 2 wastegates, the down pipe, and the outlet tubes for the wastegates, not to mention the cold-side charge pipe, there are other reasons too such as the cost and skill associated with fabricating an equal length manifold
and of course with all of that so close together comes of course a lot of heat concentration. in order to keep the heat under control i will need to prevent as much radiant heat transfer as possible. to do this I am ceramic coating everything, then I will wrap the headers in PTP's Lava Exhaust Wrap, they also make heat blankets specifically for my waste-getes and turbo which i plan to use. finally I plan to fabricate heat shields to some capacity from 304 stainless sheet, I have a good bit of it laying around so i might do two or three revisions as needed. and of course my hood is vented as well
Are you making this into a log style manifold due to space constraints?
I know log style manifolds are good and all but don't they also heat up the quickest?
What is the plan to limit the heat build up under the hood?
It does look fcking fantastic though!
I believe it's log style Conway! Should be pretty nice for sure!
They'll get hot, he's using the same schedule 10 runners that I used ... ***** .11" wall ... so think the material will take it. Would be smart to vent the hood though!
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
there are other reasons too such as the cost and skill associated with fabricating an equal length manifold
yea, tell me about it...fml - I should have done a log-style!
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
and of course with all of that so close together comes of course a lot of heat concentration. in order to keep the heat under control i will need to prevent as much radiant heat transfer as possible. to do this I am ceramic coating everything, then I will wrap the headers in PTP's Lava Exhaust Wrap, they also make heat blankets specifically for my waste-getes and turbo which i plan to use. finally I plan to fabricate heat shields to some capacity from 304 stainless sheet, I have a good bit of it laying around so i might do two or three revisions as needed. and of course my hood is vented as well
You'll get further if you vent the hood ... ceramic coating helps as does wrap and blankets but those will heat-soak at some point after a given amount of engine run time. The heat will infiltrate the intake and artificially heat your intake charge. Plain & simple, you gotta give the heat somewhere to go.
Prior to my hood vents, hot starts were very difficult with the haltech - after running the car for anything over 30minutes the engine bay was excessively hot. I cutout the hood and installed the vents and the passive air flow from the front of the car evacuated heat extremely well. So much that the plenums went from being too hot to touch to mildy warm to warm/hot even after spirited runs in the hotter hours of the day.
My hood is the astek model from VIS and conveniently enough has 10 vents between the 2 sides that sit right above the headers. I will take note of the heating issue bealljk. It’s is certainly going to be one of the hurdles for this project. I’m just going to have to take it slow and really think about heat management
