That's just the problem though, there's hardly any frontal space when you factor in the A/C Condenser, Intercooler, and radiator. You can try pushing things more forward but then you run into issues trying to fit a factory bumper or even aftermarket in some cases.

 

Legit question, is the front bash bar necessary?

 

My radiator and IC got pushed forward about 2 or 3 inches and the bar that holds my IC hits my front bumper still.

Just visualize where things are going to go … 3" seems really big to fit around the PS and AC.

I was surprised how loud my hood exit exhaust wasn't … I thought for sure it was going to be loud but it seems quieter than my twin turbo rear exit exhaust. I think a good amount of sound energy is lost in the individual path of each exhaust runners and the turbo does a good job on absorbing the sound down. I think a side exit exhaust would be most practical for you Riggz

Please don't do anything in theory or on paper … live in reality...

you may find that pushing the exhaust down and past the OEM mounts (with the 6shooters) has a good amount of room. I have also considered making my own brackets (that mount to the block and the top of the mounts) as theres a little room to be gained here.

I've highly considered using the MR2 PS pump and mounting it in the trunk and running lines up. If you do it, I'll do it too!!

I've considered running individual coolant lines (like two 3/4" hose away from how OEM routes it) but I was able to make mine work.

I deleted all HVAC and the heater hoses on the drivers side do take up room.



+1 … I went with a single 10" spal fan and it does fine on keeping my setup cool.

The OEM front end isn't going to work well … I had to redesign my front end to accommodate my setup.

Yes, it's necessary and provides some rigidity to the front end. With that being said, I removed mine and incorporated a revised front bar that hangs my IC and my radiator.

 

Hey yall i know exactly what i am gonna do in terms of my turbo setup but i need an answer on one thing: Pictured below is a hard line that runs to the radiator. This is the primary issue on the passenger side currently and i wanted to know what i could do to remove/shorten it. (14053M)

 

yea … remember me saying running individual coolant lines^^ (maybe I wasn't clear?)

I have both shortened mine and ran a steel braided hose from the back corner to the radiator and with my current I think I melted it and I extended it all the way forward to my radiator with an aluminum pipe.

Is it safe to assume this ISNT your daily driver? Do you have like a truck or another vehicle you can drive for a few months? Get the Z up in the air and just start taking things off ... this will give you the best idea of what you have to work with. You can design this in CAD, design it in the forum, design it on paper but when the rubber meets the road you gotta be able to build it.

 

Thats the thing I have another vehicle i can use but I will officially start tearing stuff apart when all of my parts come in so I can test fit, etc.
Can you elaborate or show pictures of what you did with the braided line. Also what is the premise of the coolant lines. Do they have to stay the same size or does size and placement not really matter so long as it gets where it gotta go.

Yeah im starting to realize I'm just gonna have to essentially wing it in terms of fitting **** in the engine bay. Also ive decided on a front bumper exhaust (out of each side) to make this a little less of a headache

 

^^ I don't think the coolant lines really matter if they are the same size or not. On my old setup, I had a different radiator with Spal Fans and routed the coolant lines differently, slightly shorter than oem. You should be ok. Only thing these engines don't like is air pockets.. so make sure you properly bleed the system.

 

Waiting for parts to come in sucks, however I saw something that I havent thought about. What about a setup like this. It seems a lot more easy but I don't necessarily like the turbos being directly up front.

Can i get some opinions on this.
Also in terms of exhaust im either going to do hood exit or out the front bumper in front of the wheels

 

Yea - I would imagine he is running the exhaust pipe under the engine mounts. I dont think this setup has AC and I'm not sure how he pushed the pipe around the alternator (if he is even running an alternator). Look up Meatbag's 350z - very similar setup. I still think your best bet is to get the car up in the air and start taking things off and see where your room really lies and build off your car and not necessarily off what you see on the internet.

Obviously this wont clear a front bumper and you're asking for problems with your turbos this close the ground and unprotected (I assume you'll run air filters) from dirt/debris. I can only assume this is a drag car that doesn't see street / daily driving use.

 

I know you already bought the turbos but maybe reconsider your original plan of having the turbos in the OEM header location. Yes it is a headache, but with your ultimate goal of having two turbos and retaining PS/AC, it is the best option in my opinion. You do not have to modify anything in the engine bay, no shortening hard pipes, no deleting anything, no crazy exhaust setups. Maybe a crazy exhaust is what you want, but personally I prefer to look and sound (mostly) normal so the cops don't ticket me with a fix-it-take-your-turbo-kit-off ticket. Not to mention, many race tracks these days will not let you run with a loud setup. There are pros and cons with both setups, but front mounts are very tough to execute and keep the car civilized. For fabrication of the manifolds, look up The Aussie Shed on youtube. An older Australian gentleman who fabricated his twin setup for his g37 coupe by himself in his garage, to include the turbo manifolds. He would do you some good for inspiration on how it might go, but he did have a lift which made it very straight-forward for him. I love watching fab builds, I wish you luck and don't forget to post pictures!

 

I don't see how that car would have A/C, unless they added a very sharp 90 degree bend on the downpipe which would be pretty dumb.

If he wants to keep everything and have a somewhat easier time, I think his best bet would be to fabricate a twin mid-mount/rear-mount setup or go all in and fabricate an entire front end tube chassis. Then you'll have all the space in the world.

 

Found a really good deal on Manley rods due to store overstock. these should hold up to my goal. I am also considering instead of fabbing my own headers to just do a front mount and use the Jim Wolf Technologies Headers i can purchase and toss the turbos i bought as i believe they should fit ( i have to do a little more research). I also may just do a whole tubular front end as i have a buddy who owes me a big favor.
Also update I got the engine up on a stand and drove all the way from NJ to MD and had to wait for some help from friends to get it up on the stand. Going to be tearing apart and then getting the bottom end sent out to be built and machined.

In terms of fuel management, should just larger injectors and larger fuel pump be ok?
do i need to replace the fuel rail? do i need a pressure regulator?

 

For how extreme your build is.. I wouldn't want to skip the fuel return / fuel pressure regulator. Add that to your list

 

I’m not sure if CJM is out of stock on the twin pumps, but their stage 3 fuel system should be plenty.

if you plan on going above 400ish, then a fuel return is a must.

*edit*

Looks like the twin pumps/stage 3 kits are out of stock.

Id consider looking into the new DW440 brushless fuel pumps. (Better(IMO 640lph vs 470lph @40psi) and shorter than the 525 hellcat pumps so it’s a lot easier to fit)

 

Hey yall wanted opnions on something, so I can go with

• Wiseco Piston and Callies Connecting Rods for $1300
• Wiseco Pistons and Brian Crower Sportman
  Connecting Rods for $1500

which would yall recommend?

 

Both rods have good record. I believe the Brian Crower rods are rated for higher HP, 200-300HP per cylinder and sit at about 541gram. I think Dynosty has used the BC in many of their high HP builds. Tough choice.

 

Flame me if it is deserved, but i am rebuilding a used motor to put in my car as previously stated and i was looking for a full gasket set/kit and i found one on ebay about a half to a third of a price of the one on other Z performance based websites. could these gaskets be used or should i say screw it and buy the gasket kit i know would be at least oem quality.

 

You’re looking at 1200$ rods but trying to save 200$ to get no-name gasket sets?

 

Yep. Get the right gaskets.. there are no shortcuts in this business.

For fuel, for your power goals you will certainly need a return setup. As others have stated CJM is the go-to for this. A vacuum-referenced regulator and a gauge is required. The gauge is used to initially set the pressure, then it's pretty much just there from then on. Don't mess around with fuel.. do it right and forget about it. DE guys correct me if I'm wrong, you shouldn't need fancy fuel rails but you could certainly go this route if you wanted to spruce up the bay. This setup combined with big injectors, a big pump, some larger gauge wire/relay for your fuel pump should get you to 600 whp.

 

Plenty of shortcuts ... just none that will take you where you want to go!

yea, Z1 is three times as much but theres a reason (ie they use legit stuff), you get what you pay for, and support the companies that support our platforms.

+1 to what Abog is saying ...

I found a set of CJM rails after I sold my CJM stage 2 but I think you can 'economize' on rails if you have to (no moving parts, get good AN fittings w/orings or use a touch of gasket maker.

yea, 600hp using 18 to 20psi on pump fuel is completely reasonable...