I figured it was a dumb question but I had to ask. I want it done right but also try to save money where I can. College isn't cheap

 

Gotcha ill get name brand gaskets.

I already have a regulator. I just need to get a pump, an fittings, braided stainless line, and rails correct? I was going to mimic this

 

I hear ya … we all want nothing but the best for ya!

There will be places to economize and places to spend the extra money.

I really like OEM HR MLS gaskets and I have never had a problem with them. (said this before, but) no head gasket, regardless of price paid, will save your heads from a bad tune.

pump: TI/Walbro 450 or 525 - least expensive and will drop into the OEM basket and both will provide adequate fuel. You may need CJM's fuel correction kit ($100) and CJM's OEM fuel connection fitting. Get them at the same as shipping is expensive.

lines: probably get steel braided … I'd get 1/2" or 3/4" feed and 3/8" return. I would buy an American made, quality line (like earls, aeroquip, Russell, etc.) specifically made for fuel. If you want to spend a little more money consider getting legit fire sleeve for the 8ft to 10ft portion that runs down the block, under the car, and up the fuel tank. I really like Aeroquip (the orange stuff) and you could probably fit both the feed and return lines into a 1" or 1.25" dia sleeve.
fittings: same brands as the line. fittings from overseas are noticeable cheaper and use softer aluminum. Can you use them? yes, yes you can and they may work but for something as important as fuel it'd be wise to spend the extra money.

rails - at your discretion … you can get inexpensive rails no problem. When I put my custom kit together I found a deal on a set of used CJM rails. If I didn't have these I would have bought a unbranded set, used high quality fittings and sealed with fuel-rated gasket maker.

I also added an inline fuel filter (as I don't run the fuel sock in the tank) and I think that's a smart move.

 

What is the pros vs cons on this
i was originally looking into dry sump systems but didn't think it was worth it.

 

Extra safeguards are always good to have.

I'm running a fuel sock and an inline filter, and as bealljk mentioned, I would also consider a heat sleeve for the fuel lines. Cool fuel > hot fuel.

If you're budgeting, then I would highly advise against a dry sump. It's not needed unless you're doing heavy track use. (circuit racing)

 

Word to the wise, don't copy that routing for the feed on the y-adaptor. Mine's up much higher, and still gets in the way of stabbing a trans easily. Short runs of braided line do not flex much.

 

Extra safe guard and another layer of physical protection against road debris.

Aaarrrgggg - Yea, I knew that going into my build and I made some short runs and it was a pain.

 

Hey yall im having some trouble getting the crank pulley bolt off. Tried strapping it and using regular 1/2 inch rstchet after torching it. Impact dont work, a lot of elbow grease dont work (even with bracing it with wood) anyome got any advice on how to take this sumbitch off?

 

can you use a pulley removal kit?

 

I need the bolt off before using the pulley puller unless you are talking about something else

 

You need to find a way to brace the flywheel then get a 4 or 5 foot breaker bar and just go slow and pray you don't snap the bolt. I always tried to break the bolt free in the car before ever removing the engine.

Can you or do you know anyone that can weld? Fab up a piece of metal that will mesh with the teeth flywheel so it doesn't move.

 

Gotcha - just saw 'bolt' after 'crank pulley' - my bad … don't heat the bolt, that's a step in the wrong direction.

maybe go pickup a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a cheater bar and do what Conway suggests.

 

If I recall I had similar issue on the engine stand. Used several flywheel to crank bolts threaded in (not reused later) and used those to wedge a breaker bar in the back to the stand so crank wouldn't rotate. Then hit it with a corded impact tool.

I think the exhaust cam bolts were worse.

 

Hey everyone been some time since I've updated yall.

I stripped the engine down to the block and dropped it off to my shop. After talking to the shop they advised me to go with a 9.0 to 9.5 compression ratio to help reduce turbo lag.

Correct me if I'm wrong but to be on the safe side dont you want to be around 8.8 to keep it reliable and safe? Opinions appreciated.

Also after relocating my coolant overflow tank, deleting the washer fluid reservoir and moving my intake and some stuff around I figured out the tolerances and clearances for the turbos and im happy to say IN THEORY it will work.

Build is coming slow as college takes a lot of time and is quite expensive.

 

Low compression for turbo is kind of a thing of the past or for extremely high boost pressures. For sub 800hp I would absolutely go with a higher compression. Possibly even higher than 9.5 with a 10 or 10.5. Just my 2 cents though.

 

I'd agree with GreyZ - with the continued development of better and more capable ECUs that can control boost levels and control the engine in knock/detonation/pre-ign conditions is far better than it's been before. Don't hesitate to get into the 9 to 10 : 1 compression ratios.

 

10.3+ or bust!
its 2020 we have amazing tuning software, knock detection, and fuel.

 

Compression decisions should take into account the type of fuel and availability in your area.

 

I would run E85 but there's none in my area so ill use
regular 93 pump gas

 

Water/Meth and 11:1 why not