Hello everybody last weekend I picked up a motor from a junkyard, tore it apart cleaned it and am now ordering parts to have the engine properly build for a twin turbo setup. I will be using 2 20G TD06 ball bearing Turbos, and fabbing my own turbo manifolds. (Made the drawing in Autocad and im going to be welding using stainless steel)

in the engine will be going:

• Wiseco Pistons
• Piston Ring set
• Wrist pins
• Eagle Rods
• Nissan OEM gasket kit
• ACL Engine Bearings (Rods, Mains, Thrust)
• ARP Head And Main Studs
• Z1 Viton Valve Seals
• 1000cc injectors

I will be having a shop assemble the actual engine

I have a couple questions:

• I'm looking for fuel upgrade recommendations
• Should I also bore the engine any?
• What BOV would anyone recommend
• Any and all tips would be recommended as i have dealt with NA builds but not turbo builds.

I am shooting for 600-ish wheel horsepower on pump fuel

 

CJM Stage 2 FRS, 1000cc Injectors
just bore.020 over i think it puts you at 96mm.
Tial is good company
If i remember correctly 20G turbos are only slightly better than 18G.

 

In for pictures

 

Can I convince you that a twin turbo setup is going to be a few clicks harder than a front-mount or mid-mount setup? Especially if you are fabricating your own headers?

If you are building these headers based off a set of turbos you picked up along the way, it's probably not a great move...you'll have more heartburn and distress on fabricating headers for twin turbo than you would on doing a custom front-mount or mid-mount single turbo.

I came from the greddy twin kit, I sold that kit when I spun a bearing, and fabricated my own front mount kit and you will have to be incredible precise if you are doing twins as there isnt much room (left to right) coming off the headers ... like 1/4" between the engine bay and turbo housing.

my build (for reference) from day one of my greddy kit:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...win-build.html

my single front mount really starts around page 15 ...

I'd go with something other than Eagle Rods ... look into Pauter, Manley, Carrillo, Brian Crowler - Eagle Rods are great for NA builds but dont stand up well for anything more than 500hp.

what Conway said - CJM Stage 2 and 1000cc minimum, look at the ID1050 injectors.

I wouldnt bore the engine ... you can do what Conway said but a quick ball-hone is what I would do.

 

could I still hit the horsepower number I want to with only single turbo? Any recommendations for turbos?

Also I have cad drawings I will upload later (im on the road for work rn) I will have enough clearance as long as I weld everything to spec.

 

Of course! Conventional wisdom would say that twin setups are better bc they build boost quicker .... but with newer turbo technology a single, availability of ball bearing, with a newer compressor wheel designs, a single will spool just as fast.

Plenty of single turbos making the numbers youre looking for (if not more).

How much do you want to spend on a turbo? CX Racing, Rev9, and Kinugawa make great 'budget' turbos under $1000. Look at Precision, Borg Warner, and Garrett if you want to spend more. You 'could' spend $3500 on a blower if you wanted!


famous last words!

I did basic layout using autocad but you plan on building this on a spare block or on the car itself. Unless you can cut and weld to the precision you have sketched in autocad you are setting yourself up for failure. Plan on building it in real life.

Assuming youre gonna tig this? How much welding experience do you have?

 

I have about 5ish years of welding experience and im actually joining my local welding union shortly. I dont have any issues when I comes to welding and I have about 1k to spend on a turbo. Should I buy new or is it ok to buy used and rebuild?

 

Cool cool ... TIG experience? and you got fabrication experience too? Assuming you have a shop with a band saw, a drill press, angle grinder, etc?

Have you researched what turbo size you need to make your 600hp?

If I had $1k to spend on a turbo I 'might' scope facebook and craigslist to see what's out there and get a second opinion on anything you buy and if nothing comes up I would look into a Kinugawa with around a .8 to .9 AR ratio (shooting from the hip). I found my turbo used from a guy that had dyno time on it and a handful of runs on it before he cracked his block on his first run in Vegas and parted the build out - I paid about 1/3rd of what it cost new.

Also check out Ace Race Parts - they arent cheap (but they are crazy expensive either) and their quality is top notch. I used sch10 2" exhaust runner (which has a .11" wall) I would not use 16ga steel as I think it's too thin for anything before the turbo and anthing that needs to hold serious pressure. I run 16ga after my turbo (meaning the exhaust). You might be able to get away with 14ga (.08") ... do it nice or do it twice.

I had about 40feet of the 2" sch10 tube in hand (free) and I probably spent another $500 on flanges, bends, flex hose, V-bands, etc. My collector (granted it was a twin scroll and I needed a dual 4:1 and it was impossible to find) was a little over $400. You can probably get away with spending around $100 to $200 for a collector depending on how you setup your runners/waste gates. Add $300 to $500 for stainless/v-bands for the exhaust side if you can connect to your existing mid-pipe/muffler (or add another few hundred dollars if you ware gonna build a complete exhaust).

How are you doing the intercooler? and intercooler piping? My IC setup is around $500 to $600 complete

what about oil lines and coolant lines, a way to feed oil to the turbo and a way to return oil to the pan? Same thing with coolant (if applicable)? Add $300 to $500 for these

Do you have waste gates? This can run into the $300 to $500 range all in.

Do you have a blow off valve? Another $300

How are you going to tune? Uprev will be your best bet and you can plan on $600 to $1000 for license and tune. If you wanted to spend more you could look into Haltech, Link, AEM but those are double or triple what Uprev will be.

factor in another $500 to $1000 through the build process for things that will need to get updated / mod ... fresh oil/filter, coolant, spark plugs, misc fittings, vacuum line, etc.)

 

I still have a lot of research to do on turbos im mostly familiar with NA builds any resources or tips on what size turbo i could use would be appreciated.

I have a trusted tuner. Runs me about 600-800 but I may do uprev

 

After much research and contemplation I still want to do a twin turbo setup. with that being said I am interested in a few turbo options
(i ditched my original turbo cad drawing and i am making a new one where both turbos will sit behind the headlights and i will cut vents into the bumper for proper airflow)
Turbo options: I want to stick with ball bearing turbos incorporating garrett's oil and water cooling and around my area I am finding well priced turbos on Facebook and craigslist.
I am still a little lost, would a what ar should i be looking for in a twin turbo setup i was thinking .7 ar. TIA

 

what type of work do you do? Are you professional welder?

Uprev will be just fine and plenty of people have used it with success.

You can do this and I've seen a few builds that have moved the turbos forward and I did this on my single turbo build.

There really isnt room behind the headlights to put turbos unless you completely eliminate the headlights. Your better option will be to move them as forward as the headlights (possibly a little back), down alittle to clear the hood, and closer to the centerline of the car.

a few things to consider...
You will likely lose air condition and power steering ... may not be a big thing to you. It wasnt for me and I can do without AC (even though I mostly drive the car in the 'hot' months here in colorado) but not having power steering does suck and it likely means I can never road-course this engine setup.

You will likely have to build a custom front clip for the radiator and intercooler and you may have issues fitting a front bumper. But you can use this towards your advantage (keep reading).

by moving turbos to the front of the car you will alter the weight distribution...you can counter-act this by installing a lightweight aluminum radiator, ditching AC compressor & condenser, OEM shroud, and OEM front bumper(if you chose to eliminate it).

do you have emissions to worry about?

where are you going to route your exhaust? conceptualize how the hot side takes exhaust in and then shoots it out ... how are you going to orient the turbos so you can evacuate exhaust out of the housing and out of the car?

as far as turbo sizing goes you gotta get blowers as small as possible that will meet your 600hp-700hp desires. Research what turbos can push 300-350hp each and go with the smallest ones you can fit as space will be very very tight where you want to put these blowers. I would look into as small as a .55 to .70. Anything bigger than this and you may not have space (assuming you want a closing hood and a front bumper).

It may be wise to re-design / re-route your coolant lines (I have revised mine twice) and eliminate some of the additional / non-essential heater hoses.

Eliminate your tensioning pulley and fabricate a bracket for the alternator that you can manually tighten.
Look into solid engine mounts. The OEM mounts are pretty big and take up precious space in that area.

Be very cautious of your fuel lines...Fuel lines near hot exhaust pipes is not a good combo.

If the engine is out of the car, you can trim the false fire wall - it'll give you more space for fuel lines, pressure regulator, catch can, overflow tank ... anything and everything you can relocate out of the engine back will help / give you extra room to work with.

 

I will be keeping AC and power steering not a fan of removing them.

I have 2 options that would like to share and get opinions on

1. The turbos I have purchased from we have a 7 by 7 by 7" footprint If I remove theWiper fluid reservoir, relocate the Coolant overflow tank and relocate the power steering reservoir I should have more than enough room behind the passenger side headlight. That being said I do run into an issue coming off of the headers there is a coolant pipe that is a hard pipe, I can fabricate/bend it out of the way and run The pipe joining the Turbo and the headers straight to each other. My other option is coming straight up from the Headers to To a 90ﾟ elbow that will go under the engine Bay brace and over to the Turbo. Which would be better? I'm leaning towards moving the hard pipe and running straight from the headers to the turbo.

2. I could attach the turbos front mount basically right on the intercooler and pipe accordingly

Things I have bought

• Turbos
• Bov
• 2 Wastegates
• Intercooler
• Metal for downpipe and headers

 

Riggzie--- Good luck with the build. Where in NJ are you? and who are you using to tune the beast? Sean@ivey? I am looking for a new tuner around our area.

 

Good luck on the build.

Keeping A/C is going to be a headache if you’re fabricating your own kit.

In for pictures .

 

Hey i go to j tuned performance in Newark DE im in south jersey (williamstown to be specific). He's a tad outta my way but great guy, and knows the VQ in and out

 

Thanks will have to check it out!

 

Somethings gotta give … I wouldn't set your hopes high if you think you can do this without removing either AC and Power Steering. I hope you can pull it off but there is only so much room in the engine bay and Nissan didn't design much empty space in the front end. You will need to route 2" (possibly 2.5") exhaust pipe somewhere to the front of the engine - anything less and you wont be able to flow enough exhaust gas to make power.

Are you going to run traditional headers and U-turn them (where the cats are?) to go forward for the turbos? or do you plan on running reversed headers pointed forward?

How are you going to run your exhaust after the turbos? side exit? hood exit? I don't think there will be room for a rear exit exhaust.

Is it your intention to run an unmolested OEM bumper and unmolested OEM hood?

Have you considered what intercooler and radiator you are going to run?

Moving forward, I don't think you can design this on paper/in CAD, I think you will be best served by taking the front end of the car off and building back on the car. fabricate your radiator and intercooler and build around those items.

I can see how this can be done as you have described but your life will be far easier if you delete AC, delete power steering and go with Z1's 6-shooter engine mounts (as this will clear up a lot of room).

Upload some pictures and I'm in for pics / the build / the results!

 

I was able to squeeze a bit more frontal room by using thin radiator shrouds and spal fans. Still had to delete A/C.... hahahaha

 

1. Going with revised headers pointing forward.
2. Looking into an optimal exit that isn't too obnoxious so I don't get ticketed when I go to H2OI lol
3. I may make my own hood but holes will be cut in front bumper for airflow ( ill try to not make it look like crap)
4. Yeah intercooler and radiator will mount up and work just fine (in theory)
5. i will buy the 6 shooter mounts and i will try my absolute hardest to not delete ac or power steering.
6. Very unusual idea but not impossible what about using the Toyota MR2 electronic steering and deleting power steering.

I appreciate all help (is there any other things I could relocate / chop to gove room?

Also would going tube front end help? Would require more fabbing but would give me a lot more room.

Making my own headers in 3inch OD ans .125 inch wall thickness 304 SS this should be fine for all hot sude applications. What can i use for cold side? Would aluminum be ok?

 

Re-doing the front with tubing and using Spal fans / thinner shrouds should definitely add a few more inches to your front end package lol