don't think its your fuel pump, your afr wb 1 seems ok, like I was saying you need to stay in 95 - 105, you need to look more into your data logs,
all your map1 fuel targets should be in closed loop, 14.7:1 at idle, and you have so much variations
99-125 at 888 rpm
94-103 at 850 rpm,

I would do a leak down test on bank 2 tdc on cylinder 2,4,6
make sure you plugged in the right wires to the injectors,
check that the wires are connected to the coils, in the right order
check spark plugs,

 

I was thinking it may be the tune, but my tuner said its something with my car, I was able to compression test my car with all of the cylinders at around 150-155 but ill see if I can get a leakdown test done.
All wires seem to be in the correct areas for injectors and coils.
Spark plugs look all okay but a bit white

 

Unplug both VTC solenoids and do a run to check. I had similar and one of the seals in the vtc cam covers got pinched and worked a groove in it stopping VTC from running on one side.

 

Here's the pic that wouldn't attach:

 

Hmm Alright you had this similar issue?
Will the car still run without the VTC ?
Ill check all this out tomorrow as its been raining today

 

Yes, I had no VTC on passenger side. It can definitely cause the AFT differences between banks. We couldn't fix the problem on the dyno (swapped in new solenoids, changed the sensor, etc, etc). I ran it a whole year with no VTC with both connectors to the solenoids unplugged (and taped off). Found the problem in the pic over the winter and had to wait until next dyno session to get it tuned right.

I'm on Haltech, so I don't know if the stock ECU would throw a code, but it will run fine, just kills low end torque. Your tuner should be able to disable any codes. But you're best bet is to start by unplugging both and see if the imbalance goes away. If it does, you know it's VTC and can start troubleshooting. I'd then plug one side in at a time and see which side recreates the problem, that's the side that's working. If you've checked the solenoid for clicking, and the sensor at the back (it's a pain), pull the VTC cover off and check that seal piece.

 

you're running a single turbo right? how far away from the turbo is your wb sensor? on your down pipe, with one wb you will always have variations on 1 wb, at idle,

 

you have a lot of knock at 4335 rpm

if you have your rom send it to me

 

3rd gear pull knock strength almost goest to 3000

 

1. Okay sounds good! thanks for the info!

2. How do you want me to send you the ROM? and is it looking like its being more of a tuning problem? than a mechanical problem?
It is a single turbo, im not sure exactly how far the turbo is from the wb sensors, but its a lot closer to the turbo on bank 2 than bank 1