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Car's been fantastic, although I just started the tear down of the current engine to swap the cams into the new engine.
The 8555 is honestly such a good kit. Perfect street/track power with the 100mm pulley and stock engine. I'm high confidence I'm bleeding combustion into the coolant system in at least one of the cylinders but I'll know more once the heads are off.
Probably long overdue for an update so I'll come back with something soon.
Did you ever play with venting to atmosphere? How did that go and what did you end up settling on? Some sound is cool, but I've also heard some S/C Z's that sound like fighter jets and it would get quite obnoxious.
I have a different view point on this, say you are doing a pull, whole system is at 8 psi, and you let off, the throttle plate closes....do you honesty this there will be no reversion in the intake? I'd want to closely monitor AFR before committing to anything, or just tune on MAP, it'll be infinitely better anyway.
Reversion would exist for recirc too. Ie. pre-throttle intake would lose pressure/volume in either solution. In full recirc, it's just going back into the pre-blower pipe, some of which would push back out the filter.
In either case, even if there were no functions in the ECU to deal with off-throttle conditions (of which there are several, such as overrun fuel cut), the ECU would think there is more air than there is and therefore add more fuel to a couple of cycles. So the worst case would be the car would run a little richer momentarily. Nothing unsafe about that.
Agreed MAP is more accurate method, but I don't see any danger in atmo blow-off with a MAF.
Reversion would exist for recirc too. Ie. pre-throttle intake would lose pressure/volume in either solution. In full recirc, it's just going back into the pre-blower pipe, some of which would push back out the filter.
In either case, even if there were no functions in the ECU to deal with off-throttle conditions (of which there are several, such as overrun fuel cut), the ECU would think there is more air than there is and therefore add more fuel to a couple of cycles. So the worst case would be the car would run a little richer momentarily. Nothing unsafe about that.
Agreed MAP is more accurate method, but I don't see any danger in atmo blow-off with a MAF.
How's your Z plans coming along anyway, Dark?
Not saying it is dangerous, just not something I would be willing to do. There is a little bit of danger running rich, but should be ok-ish.
My car is stagnant at the moment, kinda considering throwing on the kit with a restricted 110, and go for 325hp or so, not sure yet. Building engines has become very expensive post covid.
I hear that. I'm most of the way through tearing down the old engine and rebuilding the new one.
Quick update on what's happened since my last:
Finished up the bumper ducting with aluminium sheeting
Installed Nismo tail lights
Installed SPAL puller fan on my oil cooler. Yes, it's a slight restriction under normal circumstances, but helps with reducing temps at low speed
Next step for the oil cooler is add temp sensors for inlet and outlet so I can understand its efficiency
Installed sound deadening through most of the cabin and ceiling
Powertune dash in the cubby that replaced my 2 x AEM gauges
Did a track day in Dec and destroyed my throttle body gear (months of dealing with a PID oscillation issue). Replaced TB...
Installed Radium surge tank
Installed PPE LTH. They're amazing but coupled with the Motordyne TDX2, they are too damn loud. Going to get a custom exhaust made eventually
Found a new/old stock Nismo V3 rear bumper so that's on a shipping container from Japan. Sold the diffuser before it was ever installed.
Got all my parts back from the machinist and started building new engine
Started tearing down old engine
Old engine is in shockingly good condition. Cylinders are mint for a 22 year old, never meant for boost, engine. Head journals are in okay shape, bit of gouging. My replacement head journals are in slightly better condition.
New engine is waiting on 8 lifters on order but hopefully they'll be here early November.
To rehash, engine specs are:
96mm Wiseco 12:1 CR pistons + Manly H-beam rods
Ferrea +1mm valves and springs, retainers etc
Juke TTY bolts
JWT C2/C8 cams
Dynosty HR/VHR head gaskets
Dynosty girdle
Boundary oil pump gears
The other power bits are PPE headers and I'm going to run a 95mm blower pulley (YOLO)... I'm also going to upsize the traction oil cooler. I'm hoping to land somewhere around 530hp, but cracking 500hp will be nice.
Question about the Powertune Dash. Did you have to disconnect/eliminate your stock cluster for it to work? I can't remember if you're running the stock ECU with Uprev or if you went with an aftermarket solution.
Sick build! Wish I could do something like this in CA.
Cheers!
-Icer
I've got a Link G4X so the Powertune is running off CAN. CAN is a no brainer for me where it's available.
My Haltech WB2 is using CAN as well. And recognising that it's total overkill, I'll be using individual cylinder 02s as well. So that will be 3 x WB2s daisy chained on the CAN network.
I've been tuning the car as is and there's already a delta between banks. I've always been curious about what that looks like per cylinder. And of course you can immediately identify a failure if a plug, injector or coil goes. Or add another layer of automatic security to limit ign timing/RPM if one cylinder is too out of range from others etc.
Nice, I'd say the whole build is overkill, but should come out nice I wouldn't even consider LTH unless running NA personally. Can't wait to see the final numbers.
Overkill as, but thankfully it's getting closer to the end. Ideally the car will be back on the road by Dec and then I can run it in/road tune it for a while before it hits the dyno. Body stuff some time next year when I can get around to it.
What's your thought process on the LTH? Better flow and scavenging over shorties/HFCs should be a benefit to NA or SC. Or have I misunderstood you?
Overkill as, but thankfully it's getting closer to the end. Ideally the car will be back on the road by Dec and then I can run it in/road tune it for a while before it hits the dyno. Body stuff some time next year when I can get around to it.
What's your thought process on the LTH? Better flow and scavenging over shorties/HFCs should be a benefit to NA or SC. Or have I misunderstood you?
They are definitely better, it's just a preference. I still have cats, and will always have cats. I don't like the fumes and extra noise that comes with them, there are some LTH with cats, but for the price, I like my Tomei headers.
I think I'm misunderstanding why you'd use them in NA but not SC'd?
Oh, simple mindset really. They are a NEED for NA applications if you want to get anywhere near 300whp or higher.
Catted LTH are along the lines of $3k, and they aren't a need for SC applications, unless you want every bit of power out of it. I'd take that money and get a sprayer system or CryO2 system before LTH. For reference, with the OG 7040 kit, a CryO2 system on the dyno matched the output of the kit almost (<30whp)
