Small update, I decided to go ahead and add the second can. I also ground out my restrictor plate to 60mm. I ground it out in the event the tuner thinks the torque down low is too much. I didn't want to completely choke it out, just reduce the boost slightly. Hopefully I won't need to use it.

I purchased a universal can from Radium, got their -10an orb fittings for the inlet and outlet, and picked up some pushlock fittings and some fuel hose from amazon. I have it just kinda sitting next to the traction oil reservoir, doesn't seem to move about too much with the hoses pushing on it, but I'll just get a big hose clamp and attach it to the reservoir so it'll at least stay level. Currently seems like the best way for me to do it since I don't know how to properly make brackets or anything. Will it work? yea. Is it ugly? Also yea lol. Anyways, I still don't have an oil cooler, but I'm probably gonna go ahead and schedule a tune anyways. I think it'll survive without it for now. I've got an in-pan temp sensor that I can use to keep an eye on the oil temp. I'll take notes on what they are like before and after cooler. Still not entirely sure what size I will get, but I do like the way these guys installed theirs:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...-pictures.html
and
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ispreloading=1 (this one look at page 3 and look at djtimodj's post)

I like the idea of fastening the cooler to the crash bar in order to get it more in the path of air. The first guys setup has a pretty small 16-row cooler, width like a 1-series setrab. The other guy has an equivalent 6-series 24-row, but most of the cooler isn't even in the air path, and had to cut holes in his bumper. I'd rather not cut holes in my bumper because I like the idea of keeping an OEM look. What would be more effective: a smaller cooler that is almost entirely in the path of airflow, or a larger, wider cooler where only a small portion of it is in the path?

 

THE RESULTS ARE IN: First graph is stock power - 262hp/207tq @ ~6550rpm
Second graph is the first pull - made 337hp/267tq @ ~6750rpm
Third graph is the final - 392hp/305tq!! @ ~6750 rpm
The photos only show peak power, with peak torque occurring at ~5k, but its probably not too much more than what is shown.
Test and tune are a little over one year apart and on the same dyno. I'm glad I could get back in with the same guy because the comparison from stock to FI is more meaningful.
The tuner only mentioned one problem when going over the car. When smoke testing to find leaks, they found a small leak at the MAF sensor housing (put in an Uprev GT MAF btw). They changed the supplied spacers with some smaller ones and it sealed up nice.

Car runs like hell! It just pulls harder and harder all the up the range. Feels very smooth, supercharger isn't super loud but makes cool noises. Cruising is very nice and easy and has lots of oomph when you hit the gas.

BUT, as I was almost home I started having high idle, was around 1500 rpm when I decided to pull over and check out the engine bay. Didn't see anything super noticeable. When I started the car back up I had a CEL, scanned it and got p0507 - high idle condition, which I believe is a direct result of the p1084 - Engine bank 2 exhaust timing sensor circuit code. I'm gonna call the tuner tomorrow and pick his brain a little to see what the best course of action is. As far as I've read, it could have oil on it? I did replace the valve cover gaskets, pretty sure I did a good job but I guess I'll find out. I suppose it could be just dead considering the mileage, age, and now a 130hp and 98 lb increase in power! XD

Regardless, I'm super hyped its finally running and driving!! I'll update when I can figure out my sensor problem. Thanks everybody!!

 

Were the last numbers from tuning or did you open up the restrictor? Do you know what psi you were at?

 

Just tuning, I brought the car unrestricted. I gave him the plate just in case though. And no idea, I don’t have a gauge and I honestly didn’t even think about asking. I could ask come Monday if he was able to see psi.

 

Nice, what pulley you running again?
Interested to see what the outputs are on the various pulleys without the restrictor.

 

This is the 110mm. Also, I should've listened to you and timboj and put a check valve on that pcv catch can, I have oil in all the same spots that timboj did in his post a couple years ago.

 

I did bring it up lol. I've contemplated getting the CNC valve covers for the car because they have 2 ports per bank which can help with crankcase pressure.

 

I'll have to read through the thread later, I'm really curious about power on a stock block and cams with 110/100/90mm pulleys.

 

yeah ya did.. lol, I drove around today after cleaning the cam sensor and erasing the codes, seemed okay for a bit, did some pulls. After awhile my idle started to slowly creep back up again. Once it was around 1200-1500 I knew I would have the codes, though I still didn't have the CEL, but when I shut the car off and turned it back on, I got the codes. Same ones. The tuner mentioned going back to 5w-30 to see if it clears up so I'll try that next. Also, I noticed my dipstick didn't come out, but the oil seems to be coming from the valve cover, maybe I didn't do as good of a job as I thought I did. I'll still clean up and put the check valve in and see what happens.
And my motor is a bone stock rev up (minus injectors and spark plugs), I can only imagine cams bringing out more power.

 

Maybe you should try to remove the can and see if the problem persists.
Cams are about 30hp according to HKS.
if you want to do some troubleshooting, I'd say get an oil cap with a vacuum/pressure gauge and monitor it during some driving/pulls to see what kinda numbers you get.

 

Alright, so I put the oem pcv hose back on to test if that was the issue. I found out I apparently did not do a good job on my valve cover gaskets... this sucks. I don't seem to have leakage from where I placed RTV, its straight up the gasket that is leaking, and it leaks a ton. I followed the manual to a T as well.. another valve cover job is in my very near future. Not sure what I could differently.

 

Alright so I spoke too soon about the valve cover gasket. I took the supercharger off to clean up the valve cover and get a better look. I then noticed how the dip stick was sitting. During the initial install I routed the supercharger oil lines between the valve cover and inlet pipe. This made checking the dip stick annoying but I dealt with it thinking that was the best way to route them. Since I had one of those lines sitting on top of the dip stick, it was pulling the dip stick down against the supercharger and slightly opening the hole and causing oil to splatter out against the valve cover. I figured this had to be the cause since I had oil on the valve over and not the inlet pipe. I re routed the line to go in between the inlet pipe and shock tower, making sure there is no stress on the line. I also bought a new dip stick for good measure. Two test drives later and I have no new oil on the valve cover and no new oil on the A/C compressor. I also got a check valve from Radium to go with my PCV can, I ran that today and still no new oil on the cover or compressor. I'm calling this one fixed! I still want to do some more test drives and clean up some more just to be sure but I am very confident that was the issue.

In other news, I got the sensor in today and installed it. I performed the pedal position, throttle valve position, drove around for a little bit, then did the idle air re learn. I'm happy to report that I currently have no CEL after probably 45 min of driving and a few pulls. Idle without the A/C sits around ~850 and with the A/C on its about 1k, and it did not go any higher. The tuner let me know that my idle was raised to 800-850. So all seems fine for now. Its time to get to work on an oil cooler next! My temps after driving for a while sits at 210 on the gauge I installed, so its probably higher at the OEM sensor.

 

Howdy, so installed an oil cooler about 2 months ago and it's been working really well, especially considering it's a lot smaller than most people normally get. I went with a Setrab 1 Series 25 row oil cooler, -10 an lines, all setrab fittings, and a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. I mounted it to the crash bar and ran the lines through it so they wouldn't be hanging towards the ground. My pan gauge generally will sit at 180, way better than it used to be, but it will climb after some hard driving usually to around 190-195, to be expected of course. From the OEM sensor it will still get pretty high (I need to take the time to datalog the temps some more), but not as bad and the oil cools down so much faster. I started running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40. This is just a street car, so I'm not ******* it constantly for a significant period of time like a track car would, so I think the cooler is enough for my needs. Still running a stock radiator but since the oil cooler isn't between the intercooler and A/C condenser I haven't really had any significant coolant temp issues. It's definitely higher than it used to be of course, but it doesn't seem dangerous at all. Usually sits around 190-195 sitting still in traffic with the A/C on, and it'll hit probably 210 after ******* on it. We'll see how the temps act once we get back into Summer. I think now I need to focus on making my exhaust not sound like a bunch of ball bearings in a tin can...

 

That oil temp is too cold, oil needs to reach 210-230 degrees to burn off contamination. I truly think a DE would have decent temps when retaining the stock heater/cooler and using a better radiator to cool the engine and oil for street applications.

 

At the OEM sensor its generally over 190 or so when I'm cruising, and it'll hit over 210 after romping around a bit. I just have an Autometer gauge in the pan, the OEM sensor normally is around 20-25 degrees higher than the temp gauge. I believe the OEM sensor is set right before the OEM cooler (which I still have on), but I may be wrong about that. You think the pan temp should be at 210?

 

DEs typically don't have an oil temp sensor, as long as the oil temp is allowed to rise properly it should be fine.
I'd probably aim for a pan temp of 200-210 degrees at the lowest, most synthetics are good for 250 easy. As long as it can stay below 250-260 when driving hard you are good.

 

Mines a Revup so it's got one, I have to use Uprev to see the output though. Sounds like a green light to run it harder!

 

Hey Matt, how's the car been running? I just picked the kit up from CZP and I'll be installing it on my 06 RevUp next weekend. Definitely checking out your posts for your experience on the install.

 

Nice! Cars runs great! Kit itself has been awesome. I have been dealing with a P2A00 but I’m pretty sure my exhaust is the problem. If you have any questions during your install lmk! I tried to be detailed in all my posts but after re-reading I definitely start rambling. Did you get a dyno test done before hand? It’s cool to see the before and after.

 

No dyno before hand unfortunately. Looking to hit right around or under 400whp to stay on the safe side. How does the HKS BOV sound? Since it's a recirculating set up does it have much of a sound? Full VTA sounds a bit obnoxious with a S/C but I wonder about those GFB valves where you can set party VTA and part recirc.