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The bov isn’t too loud, it’s certainly noticeable but not overwhelming. Same with the whistle/whine of the supercharger. I really enjoy the sound of it.
Yeah I’ve got two. I have the Radium Engineering PCV kit with their check valve on the can and the OEM PCV drilled out. Haven’t checked crank case pressure but I think it’s alright since I’m running the 110mm pulley. For the CCV I’ve got a universal Radium can that I strapped to the hks oil reservoir, and ran some -10an line from the output of the supercharger to the can, to the ccv port of the driver side valve cover. I do not have any check valves on the ccv side can. Not sure if I need to or not, seems fine. I can post a better picture of the setup if need be.
Did you end up figuring out the most successful dual can set up on the HKS? I would love some sort of diagram if possible. I'm pretty sure I understand the PCV side can (besides drilling out the PCV valve, I am not sure what all that entails). I am installing the S/C this weekend assuming it gets to CZP before Friday. I'll be picking up two Radium cans I am just not sure exactly how to set them up. I've been reading these forums but I still feel a bit unsure on the specifics. Thanks!
Did you end up figuring out the most successful dual can set up on the HKS? I would love some sort of diagram if possible. I'm pretty sure I understand the PCV side can (besides drilling out the PCV valve, I am not sure what all that entails). I am installing the S/C this weekend assuming it gets to CZP before Friday. I'll be picking up two Radium cans I am just not sure exactly how to set them up. I've been reading these forums but I still feel a bit unsure on the specifics. Thanks!
That question is a bit complicated, every build will have different needs, although the consensus was one can is too restrictive. The way he ran it is a good start, however i wouldn't drill the OEM valve, get the AN replacement from CZP and then use a Radium PCV valve on the can.
Awesome thanks for that clarification. I’ll start with just the PCV can and the AN connector. Then I’ll try to do more research on the set up for the second can a little later. Just picked up with S/C from CZP today so this weekend will be fun!
Kit is on! Your written experience was invaluable, thank you! Finishing up putting the intake back together, then oil cooler and fuel pump and she will be towed to the Dyno for tuning next week.
Funny enough I didn't have to cut the dipstick area at all for the kit to fit. Maybe they slightly updated the kit? The hardest part was getting the DE idler pulley on, we ended up shaving a little but off the side that slips into where the spacer came out of and then used a hammer and mallet to tap it into place. The next challenge was getting the new serpentine belt on, it was pretty tight. I just got it started and then spun everything until it popped into place. Third was probably the piping, getting everything lined up perfectly and the directions here leave you scratching your head a lot trying to figure out what they are saying.
I went with the 110mm pulley and no restrictor plate. Walbro 255 and ID 1050 injectors. I plan to stay under 400whp for safety on the stock block.
The best thing I did was to read and re-read each instruction a couple times, and then go forward a few pages to see how this step affects the next steps. Also the instructions are terrible at explaining what each bolt is, so taking the time to organize and label them is really smart. I'll update with Dyno numbers soon. It'll be on a Mustang Dyno so the numbers will be about 15% lower than others.
That question is a bit complicated, every build will have different needs, although the consensus was one can is too restrictive. The way he ran it is a good start, however i wouldn't drill the OEM valve, get the AN replacement from CZP and then use a Radium PCV valve on the can.
Throwing my hat in. I'm still running one can and haven't had a problem since I replaced my old dipstick, where the rubber was too hard. No leaks since then.
My setup is the CJM AN valve cover adapter, on the right cover. Both covers are routed to the Radium single can kit using a Y-fitting, and the can is routed to the SC inlet. To be safe, two cans will be more effective than one, but just saying mine is working fine.
It was around a year between checking my can and there was about a fingernail depth of water and a tiny bit of oil. Pretty surprised actually.
That said, I don't like the vapour build up over time in the blower so I'm considering running a PCV venturi in the right exhaust bank and route the can to it. Something like this:
Throwing my hat in. I'm still running one can and haven't had a problem since I replaced my old dipstick, where the rubber was too hard. No leaks since then.
My setup is the CJM AN valve cover adapter, on the right cover. Both covers are routed to the Radium single can kit using a Y-fitting, and the can is routed to the SC inlet. To be safe, two cans will be more effective than one, but just saying mine is working fine.
It was around a year between checking my can and there was about a fingernail depth of water and a tiny bit of oil. Pretty surprised actually.
That said, I don't like the vapour build up over time in the blower so I'm considering running a PCV venturi in the right exhaust bank and route the can to it. Something like this:
I would like to see your crankcase pressures, if any.
I wouldn't recommend that setup on the new build, IMO the stock system isn't good enough for 500whp+ but i have yet to do any testing. Best practice will be to measure pressure/vacuum, ideally you want vacuum at all times.
Remove the PCV valve, and run hoses directly from the valve cover to the catch can, and basically end there. You can allow the catch can to vent to atmosphere, and then on the intake side you'd just cap off the ports and SC port The crank case then doesn't see ANY positive pressure or even really vacuum. It's just allowed to breath into the catch can as needed.
Least restrictive, but vacuum > no pressure. I'll put up a quick search of what the benefits of vacuum are, it's only popular because people are generally misinformed/want the easy way out, or it's on a race engine that gets rebuilt regularly
For NA engines, constantly under vacuum, then sure. For a boosted engine it's both unnecessary and for those with superchargers, it means those dirty vapours are making their way into the internals. Unnecessary because under boost (ie when you're making power) the delta in pressure between the case and outside will force the air out. It doesn't need vacuum. That's where the least restriction is the best option.
The benefit of PCV vacuum for a boosted car while it's out of boost would be immaterial.
There are other factors for consideration, of course:
On paper, we can go back and forth about it, but I've researched the topic and even people running 40 psi on a EVO saw and preferred the vacuum. My other car (GTI) will actually drink its own oil if the crankcase isn't under vacuum while in boost (because yes, it stays in vacuum 90% of the time).
I've researched it on top of my knowledge of 16 years of mechanical work. I won't run, nor recommend a VTA system. That being said, you are welcome to run whatever you want based on your knowledge.
If you've got more conclusive research to share, this is a great place for it.
I don't think anyone would disagree that some vacuum is better than no vacuum, but how much benefit you gain from that is going to depend wildly on different engines and applications- like your examples. If you're able to determine that benefit with some accuracy, you've still got to weigh that up against trade off feeding it back into the SC. Maybe the Radium doesn't do a very good job with oil/air separation, but after a couple of years of build up in my intake from recirc, I'm done. I should've taken some photos but you get the idea.
The exhaust venturi is the best of both worlds but comes with it's own complications and trade offs. I'm undecided if I can be bothered but I'll have to make the call soon.
If you've got more conclusive research to share, this is a great place for it.
I don't think anyone would disagree that some vacuum is better than no vacuum, but how much benefit you gain from that is going to depend wildly on different engines and applications- like your examples. If you're able to determine that benefit with some accuracy, you've still got to weigh that up against trade off feeding it back into the SC. Maybe the Radium doesn't do a very good job with oil/air separation, but after a couple of years of build up in my intake from recirc, I'm done. I should've taken some photos but you get the idea.
The exhaust venturi is the best of both worlds but comes with it's own complications and trade offs. I'm undecided if I can be bothered but I'll have to make the call soon.
IIRC, you have a single can with a Y into the inlet right?
I strongly believe one can isnt enough and I do believe Radium cans are good, that being said, there is a company who's products I was looking into. They claim that most cans only capture about 60% of contamination, I don't know the veracity of that statement tho.
Theirs supposedly does better, but you know how it is.
I know the Mishimoto does a good job of pooling the oil, but I have yet check the outlet, I will do this on the off season and will report back. You'd figure a catch can would mean no vapor but I guess that's not the case.
I wonder what Matt's experience has been like with the double can setup?
