Optimal timing retard after 5,000 rpm?
#1
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Optimal timing retard after 5,000 rpm?
hey was wondering what the optimal timing redard settings are after 5,000 rpm? Example: 2 dregree at 5,000rpm 1 at 5,500rpm and 2 at 6,000 and 3 at 6,500 rpm = total of 8 degrees?????
I heard the VORTECH split second box from the factory is like 10 degrees retarded and A/F is under 10:1.
I want the best knowledge i can get when I go into tuning my car? I also heard A/F should be 11.9 or lower, is this correct?
Enthuzed, please email me your MAP settings........sure would help me alot.
I heard the VORTECH split second box from the factory is like 10 degrees retarded and A/F is under 10:1.
I want the best knowledge i can get when I go into tuning my car? I also heard A/F should be 11.9 or lower, is this correct?
Enthuzed, please email me your MAP settings........sure would help me alot.
#2
Where did you get that info about the Split second box? 10 degrees of retard seems like quite a bit and 10:1 A/F ratio is super duper rich. Right now I'm retarding 4 degrees total. I'm at a high elevation though.
Don't go any higher than 12.5:1 A/F ratio unless you're absolutely sure each of your cylinders is getting the same amount of air. Anything higher and you're asking for trouble. It's all about how close to the edge you want to tune. Power VS. Safety of the engine.
Don't go any higher than 12.5:1 A/F ratio unless you're absolutely sure each of your cylinders is getting the same amount of air. Anything higher and you're asking for trouble. It's all about how close to the edge you want to tune. Power VS. Safety of the engine.
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Originally posted by jesseenglish
Where did you get that info about the Split second box? 10 degrees of retard seems like quite a bit and 10:1 A/F ratio is super duper rich. Right now I'm retarding 4 degrees total. I'm at a high elevation though.
Don't go any higher than 12.5:1 A/F ratio unless you're absolutely sure each of your cylinders is getting the same amount of air. Anything higher and you're asking for trouble. It's all about how close to the edge you want to tune. Power VS. Safety of the engine.
Where did you get that info about the Split second box? 10 degrees of retard seems like quite a bit and 10:1 A/F ratio is super duper rich. Right now I'm retarding 4 degrees total. I'm at a high elevation though.
Don't go any higher than 12.5:1 A/F ratio unless you're absolutely sure each of your cylinders is getting the same amount of air. Anything higher and you're asking for trouble. It's all about how close to the edge you want to tune. Power VS. Safety of the engine.
#4
We're all playing with our timing settings. I'm sure at one time he was at -16 degrees, but I'd assume that as I have done. He has also changed his numerous times to find the perfect timing for his setup.
Timing retard depends on a lot of things. Elevation, boost levels, engine compression, fuel octane, A/F ratio, Intake temps, RPM. I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but can't think of them right now.
To give one "This is the optimal setup for 7PSI" would be bogus. That's why I chose to go with a setup that would indicate to me when my engine was knocking so I'd know to retard it a little more.
Timing retard depends on a lot of things. Elevation, boost levels, engine compression, fuel octane, A/F ratio, Intake temps, RPM. I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but can't think of them right now.
To give one "This is the optimal setup for 7PSI" would be bogus. That's why I chose to go with a setup that would indicate to me when my engine was knocking so I'd know to retard it a little more.
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I ended up taking out 8 degrees at redline with my Procharger at 7psi, I probably could have gone less to like 6 or 4 or something but I never really played around with it. Like Jesse said, there's no optimal setup really, your just going to have to find what's best for you, but you can always play it safe and just take out more then you would need to, sorta like I did. Another reason I like the J&S, if your not taking out enough, it will for you. Good luck.
#6
Originally posted by ravaz
Another reason I like the J&S, if your not taking out enough, it will for you.
Another reason I like the J&S, if your not taking out enough, it will for you.
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I'm planning to set my Vortech timing retard map to look something like this:
4000rpm = 1 degree
4500rpm = 2 degrees
5000rpm = 3 degrees
5500rpm = 4 degrees
6000rpm = 5 degrees
6500rpm = 6 degrees
My tuner had the customized my settings at 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6... but I have read that it's better to gradually increase retard.
What's this about the retard being additive?
--Steve
4000rpm = 1 degree
4500rpm = 2 degrees
5000rpm = 3 degrees
5500rpm = 4 degrees
6000rpm = 5 degrees
6500rpm = 6 degrees
My tuner had the customized my settings at 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6... but I have read that it's better to gradually increase retard.
What's this about the retard being additive?
--Steve
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I don't know the factory programming--but since I had the Vortech installed on my G35 before there was a G35 program available from Vortech the factory maps were of no use. My installer probably saved a copy, though, so I'll look into it.
--Steve
--Steve
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Originally posted by SKiDaZZLe
my timing now is 16 degrees total at 4K, then rises to 19-20 degrees at redline.
my timing now is 16 degrees total at 4K, then rises to 19-20 degrees at redline.
#13
timing
Originally posted by zimbo
I'm planning to set my Vortech timing retard map to look something like this:
4000rpm = 1 degree
4500rpm = 2 degrees
5000rpm = 3 degrees
5500rpm = 4 degrees
6000rpm = 5 degrees
6500rpm = 6 degrees
My tuner had the customized my settings at 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6... but I have read that it's better to gradually increase retard.
What's this about the retard being additive?
--Steve
I'm planning to set my Vortech timing retard map to look something like this:
4000rpm = 1 degree
4500rpm = 2 degrees
5000rpm = 3 degrees
5500rpm = 4 degrees
6000rpm = 5 degrees
6500rpm = 6 degrees
My tuner had the customized my settings at 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6... but I have read that it's better to gradually increase retard.
What's this about the retard being additive?
--Steve
here is my timing map that i made for my z. second one is vortechs best effort. my car pinged between 5000 and 5500 rpm. after 3 trips to vortech and no changes i asked them for the software. i have not yet fixed the fuel part of the box. my car runs a 10.2 at 4700 and 10 or below from 4800 to 6600 rpm. the dynos meter does not read below 10. next week i will go to dyno and tune the fuel map. also people getting custom tuning should think about tuning with a.c. on. the timing was good until i ran the a.c. i will make a timing map for summer and for winter now.
#14
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Originally posted by etx
Is that 16 digrees of advance? or your pulling 16?
Is that 16 digrees of advance? or your pulling 16?
can someone with a stock car and an OBD2 logger find out what stock timing is like from 4K -> redline?
m
#15
How safe would it be to let the J&S take out the timing for you repeatedly??Like say you took out 2 degrees at redline, and relied on the knock sensor to pull the rest for you under certain conditions.Is this safe or using the J&S safty net should be of last resort??or am I asking a retarded question..
#16
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Ive been doing alot of asking about this . Asking any one that will send me there maps . I have one from [ cant remember ] that is only taking out 1.4 degree's at 10psi and 7000rpm . He is dumping alot of fuel in though and I would asume high octane gas .The stock ECU Ive heard is taking out 2 to 4 degrees . Ive got mine down to 4.2 at 9.5psi and 7000rpm's with A/F under 11.8 . with no pinging on 92 octane .The stock Vortech if I remember right is like 2, 4, 6 ,10 , 15. I know it jumps from 6 to 10 at one point [ think 6000rpm] . Ive redone mine to go by boost rather than rpm . So i can increase alittle at a tiime ..at 2.5psi... .3 .5 .8 1 1.3 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.8 3 an so on up to 9.5 psi .
Last edited by booger; 09-05-2004 at 05:20 PM.
#17
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I think if you could find out how much it retards once it does detect knock . Lets say you set it at 2 degree's at red line and it detects knock...the J&S retards it 2 degrees.....but it is still knocking...is it going to adjust again in time to save your motor ? Finding out how much and how fast it adjust would be the best way to find out where you could set it .
Originally posted by Daking350z
How safe would it be to let the J&S take out the timing for you repeatedly??Like say you took out 2 degrees at redline, and relied on the knock sensor to pull the rest for you under certain conditions.Is this safe or using the J&S safty net should be of last resort??or am I asking a retarded question..
How safe would it be to let the J&S take out the timing for you repeatedly??Like say you took out 2 degrees at redline, and relied on the knock sensor to pull the rest for you under certain conditions.Is this safe or using the J&S safty net should be of last resort??or am I asking a retarded question..
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The J&S is a great tuning tool......but its not meant to be a total timing solution. Instead, its there as a final safety net (programmable too!) in case the timing you have programmed still causes knock. It's not a substitute for proper tuning but instead something meant to augment it
adam
adam
#19
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
The J&S is a great tuning tool......but its not meant to be a total timing solution. Instead, its there as a final safety net (programmable too!) in case the timing you have programmed still causes knock. It's not a substitute for proper tuning but instead something meant to augment it
adam
The J&S is a great tuning tool......but its not meant to be a total timing solution. Instead, its there as a final safety net (programmable too!) in case the timing you have programmed still causes knock. It's not a substitute for proper tuning but instead something meant to augment it
adam