hey was wondering what the optimal timing redard settings are after 5,000 rpm? Example: 2 dregree at 5,000rpm 1 at 5,500rpm and 2 at 6,000 and 3 at 6,500 rpm = total of 8 degrees?????

I heard the VORTECH split second box from the factory is like 10 degrees retarded and A/F is under 10:1.


I want the best knowledge i can get when I go into tuning my car? I also heard A/F should be 11.9 or lower, is this correct?



Enthuzed, please email me your MAP settings........sure would help me alot.

 

Where did you get that info about the Split second box? 10 degrees of retard seems like quite a bit and 10:1 A/F ratio is super duper rich. Right now I'm retarding 4 degrees total. I'm at a high elevation though.

Don't go any higher than 12.5:1 A/F ratio unless you're absolutely sure each of your cylinders is getting the same amount of air. Anything higher and you're asking for trouble. It's all about how close to the edge you want to tune. Power VS. Safety of the engine.

 

Skidazzle mentioned he is at -16 degress with J&S????

 

We're all playing with our timing settings. I'm sure at one time he was at -16 degrees, but I'd assume that as I have done. He has also changed his numerous times to find the perfect timing for his setup.

Timing retard depends on a lot of things. Elevation, boost levels, engine compression, fuel octane, A/F ratio, Intake temps, RPM. I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but can't think of them right now.

To give one "This is the optimal setup for 7PSI" would be bogus. That's why I chose to go with a setup that would indicate to me when my engine was knocking so I'd know to retard it a little more.

 

I ended up taking out 8 degrees at redline with my Procharger at 7psi, I probably could have gone less to like 6 or 4 or something but I never really played around with it. Like Jesse said, there's no optimal setup really, your just going to have to find what's best for you, but you can always play it safe and just take out more then you would need to, sorta like I did. Another reason I like the J&S, if your not taking out enough, it will for you. Good luck.

 

Very good point and this is definitely an advantage that J&S has over the other systems available.

 

my timing now is 16 degrees total at 4K, then rises to 19-20 degrees at redline.

hth,
m

 

I'm planning to set my Vortech timing retard map to look something like this:

4000rpm = 1 degree
4500rpm = 2 degrees
5000rpm = 3 degrees
5500rpm = 4 degrees
6000rpm = 5 degrees
6500rpm = 6 degrees

My tuner had the customized my settings at 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6... but I have read that it's better to gradually increase retard.

What's this about the retard being additive?

--Steve

 

Zimbo, do you remember what the factory set the split sec box at as far as timing retard?

 

I don't know the factory programming--but since I had the Vortech installed on my G35 before there was a G35 program available from Vortech the factory maps were of no use. My installer probably saved a copy, though, so I'll look into it.

--Steve

 

thank you Steve!

 

Is that 16 digrees of advance? or your pulling 16?

 

here is my timing map that i made for my z. second one is vortechs best effort. my car pinged between 5000 and 5500 rpm. after 3 trips to vortech and no changes i asked them for the software. i have not yet fixed the fuel part of the box. my car runs a 10.2 at 4700 and 10 or below from 4800 to 6600 rpm. the dynos meter does not read below 10. next week i will go to dyno and tune the fuel map. also people getting custom tuning should think about tuning with a.c. on. the timing was good until i ran the a.c. i will make a timing map for summer and for winter now.

 

those numbers are total degrees advanced....

can someone with a stock car and an OBD2 logger find out what stock timing is like from 4K -> redline?

m

 

How safe would it be to let the J&S take out the timing for you repeatedly??Like say you took out 2 degrees at redline, and relied on the knock sensor to pull the rest for you under certain conditions.Is this safe or using the J&S safty net should be of last resort??or am I asking a retarded question..

 

Ive been doing alot of asking about this . Asking any one that will send me there maps . I have one from [ cant remember ] that is only taking out 1.4 degree's at 10psi and 7000rpm . He is dumping alot of fuel in though and I would asume high octane gas .The stock ECU Ive heard is taking out 2 to 4 degrees . Ive got mine down to 4.2 at 9.5psi and 7000rpm's with A/F under 11.8 . with no pinging on 92 octane .The stock Vortech if I remember right is like 2, 4, 6 ,10 , 15. I know it jumps from 6 to 10 at one point [ think 6000rpm] . Ive redone mine to go by boost rather than rpm . So i can increase alittle at a tiime ..at 2.5psi... .3 .5 .8 1 1.3 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.8 3 an so on up to 9.5 psi .

 

I think if you could find out how much it retards once it does detect knock . Lets say you set it at 2 degree's at red line and it detects knock...the J&S retards it 2 degrees.....but it is still knocking...is it going to adjust again in time to save your motor ? Finding out how much and how fast it adjust would be the best way to find out where you could set it .

 

The J&S is a great tuning tool......but its not meant to be a total timing solution. Instead, its there as a final safety net (programmable too!) in case the timing you have programmed still causes knock. It's not a substitute for proper tuning but instead something meant to augment it

adam

 

So I am better off tuning using the unichip thats gonna come with the APS TT then just utilizing the KR part of the J&S in CASE I detonate under the tuned conditions??

 

Well, I use my J&S as my timing solution, not just for knock retard, but it is the only thing I use for timing.