5AT (automatic transmission) Owners With Forced Induction Please Read
04-20-2009, 06:59 PM
#181
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is there a better place to pick up these parts? are they all needed?
The shop owner said he will call his people and see whats available, but that I should do research also, to find out how much work I want to do.
A quick total of all items listed put me around $2k in parts
the big items are TC, VB, and rebuild kit
$400 seems high for a rebuild kit that consists of 4 gaskets and a bunch of o rings
The shop owner said he will call his people and see whats available, but that I should do research also, to find out how much work I want to do.
A quick total of all items listed put me around $2k in parts
the big items are TC, VB, and rebuild kit
$400 seems high for a rebuild kit that consists of 4 gaskets and a bunch of o rings
04-21-2009, 05:58 AM
#182
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www.altousa.com 
More than likely GTM uses Alto parts...call Alto and get some prices. They have the kit for all the parts.
More than likely GTM uses Alto parts...call Alto and get some prices. They have the kit for all the parts.
04-21-2009, 06:52 AM
#183
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Install the Torque converter if you drag ,, if you dont drag dont bother with it,
as the use of the torque converter is to make the rpm rev faster, and you could make ur rpm 3,500 while youre hitting the brakes and gas ..
as the use of the torque converter is to make the rpm rev faster, and you could make ur rpm 3,500 while youre hitting the brakes and gas ..
04-21-2009, 09:51 AM
#184
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I have done a bit of drag racing in the car, but only to check tuning/improvements.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
04-21-2009, 01:18 PM
#185
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I have done a bit of drag racing in the car, but only to check tuning/improvements.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
04-21-2009, 02:03 PM
#186
I have done a bit of drag racing in the car, but only to check tuning/improvements.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
I wont be doing any sort of bracket drag racing, so I'll probably pass on the TC.
What are the weak points in our trannys? what would be upgrade priority?
I'm definitely getting the Transgo VB kit.
Thus, keeping transmissions temps under control is critical! Keeping the clutch packs from slipping is critical as that generates heat while wearing out the frictional elements.
To do that, you need to:
1. Monitor temps and add an appropriate cooler to keep temps in optimal operating range (175 to 200 deg F).
2. Employ a VB upgrade to prevent slipping the clutch packs.
3. Depending on the stress you subject the transmission to, upgrade the clutch packs with higher friction, heavier duty counterparts that can handle high heat, high input torque without degrading.
Nothing lasts forever. By employing what's recommended in steps 1, 2, 3 above (along with frequent ATF changes) you will lengthen the time to failure. Obviously the higher the input torque, the shorter the time to failure. Employ the modifications that you can afford. Good luck.
PS. Heat degrades ATF, with synthetic ATF (like matic-J) being more resistant. The ability for ATF to prevent component wear (by reducing friction) decreases over time. At 200 deg F, synthetic ATF may be good for 30k miles. At 250, it may be good for 5k. Change the ATF as frequently as your oil if you're running FI and you can also lengthen your time to failure. A drain/fill is so easy on our cars since we don't have to drop the pan. There's no excuse not to do it.
04-22-2009, 11:10 AM
#187
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Heat is the #1 killer of automatic transmissions. A valve body reduces heat caused by friction by provider for firmer, quicker shifts that are a bit more jarring, but prevent the gentle, slipping engagement of the clutch packs, which generate so much heat.
Thus, keeping transmissions temps under control is critical! Keeping the clutch packs from slipping is critical as that generates heat while wearing out the frictional elements.
To do that, you need to:
1. Monitor temps and add an appropriate cooler to keep temps in optimal operating range (175 to 200 deg F).
2. Employ a VB upgrade to prevent slipping the clutch packs.
3. Depending on the stress you subject the transmission to, upgrade the clutch packs with higher friction, heavier duty counterparts that can handle high heat, high input torque without degrading.
Nothing lasts forever. By employing what's recommended in steps 1, 2, 3 above (along with frequent ATF changes) you will lengthen the time to failure. Obviously the higher the input torque, the shorter the time to failure. Employ the modifications that you can afford. Good luck.
PS. Heat degrades ATF, with synthetic ATF (like matic-J) being more resistant. The ability for ATF to prevent component wear (by reducing friction) decreases over time. At 200 deg F, synthetic ATF may be good for 30k miles. At 250, it may be good for 5k. Change the ATF as frequently as your oil if you're running FI and you can also lengthen your time to failure. A drain/fill is so easy on our cars since we don't have to drop the pan. There's no excuse not to do it.
Thus, keeping transmissions temps under control is critical! Keeping the clutch packs from slipping is critical as that generates heat while wearing out the frictional elements.
To do that, you need to:
1. Monitor temps and add an appropriate cooler to keep temps in optimal operating range (175 to 200 deg F).
2. Employ a VB upgrade to prevent slipping the clutch packs.
3. Depending on the stress you subject the transmission to, upgrade the clutch packs with higher friction, heavier duty counterparts that can handle high heat, high input torque without degrading.
Nothing lasts forever. By employing what's recommended in steps 1, 2, 3 above (along with frequent ATF changes) you will lengthen the time to failure. Obviously the higher the input torque, the shorter the time to failure. Employ the modifications that you can afford. Good luck.
PS. Heat degrades ATF, with synthetic ATF (like matic-J) being more resistant. The ability for ATF to prevent component wear (by reducing friction) decreases over time. At 200 deg F, synthetic ATF may be good for 30k miles. At 250, it may be good for 5k. Change the ATF as frequently as your oil if you're running FI and you can also lengthen your time to failure. A drain/fill is so easy on our cars since we don't have to drop the pan. There's no excuse not to do it.
Clutch packs are burnt up, I'm guessing from what you posted, it ran too hot and slipped too much. The new fluid maybe has 2,000 miles on it.
Now the shop is telling me I need to replace the Valvebody also.
Stock Rebuild:
- Master kit
- filter kit
- electronics
- valvebody (pewter),
- new tc
Quote: $3822.63
Upgrade Rebuild:
-Stock Rebuild
-2800 Stall Torque Converter with High pressure balloon housing
Quote: $4073.73
My other options, would be to pick up the GTM tranny for $4500 shipped with upgraded clutch packs, valvebody, Torque Converter, or buy a used 04.5 Tranny Ive found for $1200 shipped. I'd do the install myself, or pay the shop to do it.
I'm leaning towards the GTM tranny, I'll have to call the shop back and see how much it will cost to pay for the work they've already done on the old tranny, and drop the new one in.
04-22-2009, 12:35 PM
#191
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OK the plan is to order the transgo vb kit and GTM trans cooler, unless it can be proved to me that the plutch packs, and other upgrade parts GTM sells are not OEM replacement.
My shop says no one makes upgrade parts for this transmission, and that even the Torque Converter will be custom built.
My shop says no one makes upgrade parts for this transmission, and that even the Torque Converter will be custom built.
04-22-2009, 12:59 PM
#193
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Ok just got off of phone with shop again.
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
04-22-2009, 01:18 PM
#194
Ok just got off of phone with shop again.
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
As noted heat is the #1 killer of an auto trans.
I'm having the transgo VB put in some time next week to see if that solves my slow shifting problem.
I have been told that we have the Titan 5AT in these Z's. Anyone know anything about that? If so they are rated for 350# of torque.
04-22-2009, 01:33 PM
#195
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Ok just got off of phone with shop again.
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
, please some reviews of the GTM cooler when installed,, + pics of where exactly its mounted cause im ordering one soon Guys how often do you change ur tranny oil NA ? and how about FI ?
i change my tranny oil every 40,000 Kilometers,, about 25K miles ,, thats what the dealer ship does to nissan cars
04-22-2009, 01:58 PM
#197
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If you aren't racing it , that should be good enough. I have hundreds of 1/4 mile passes on my tranny, but I have always used a aftermarket tranny cooler.
As noted heat is the #1 killer of an auto trans.
I'm having the transgo VB put in some time next week to see if that solves my slow shifting problem.
I have been told that we have the Titan 5AT in these Z's. Anyone know anything about that? If so they are rated for 350# of torque.
As noted heat is the #1 killer of an auto trans.
I'm having the transgo VB put in some time next week to see if that solves my slow shifting problem.
I have been told that we have the Titan 5AT in these Z's. Anyone know anything about that? If so they are rated for 350# of torque.
I'm going to let them put in the built TC with 2800 stall
04-22-2009, 02:26 PM
#198
You could email him and ask. Rob would probably know off the top of his head.
04-22-2009, 07:04 PM
#199
Ok just got off of phone with shop again.
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
Told me the cause of the problem was with the Torque Converter failing and need keeping high enough oil pressure in the tranny, which lead to higher heat and burning up up clutch packs and the likes.
The plan is to let them rebuild it back to oem specs, install valvebody upgrade kit, and GTM cooler
Last edited by rcdash; 04-22-2009 at 07:06 PM.
04-22-2009, 07:51 PM
#200
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Yes I will definitely ask for all stock parts.
It seems as though the shop is telling me whatever they have to so that I buy more parts. At first he said the Clutch plates wore out, then it was the torque converter.
Everything he may be telling me may be accurate, but with no experience with automatic transmissions, I really have no idea.
I'm leaning towards buying a used tranny for $1200, having him install it for $1000ish, and removing the vortech until I can afford something that can hold the power (MT)
It seems as though the shop is telling me whatever they have to so that I buy more parts. At first he said the Clutch plates wore out, then it was the torque converter.
Everything he may be telling me may be accurate, but with no experience with automatic transmissions, I really have no idea.
I'm leaning towards buying a used tranny for $1200, having him install it for $1000ish, and removing the vortech until I can afford something that can hold the power (MT)