wanna turbo my 350z, but its my daily driver.........want relaibilty but more power, should i go F/I and if so which system should i go with, was thinkin about vortech, and greddy tt setup???? had anyone blew there engines yet? is it really safe to boost at 5.5 psi ......??? i am so confused,


help me
jon

 

Any FI system is risky if it's not tuned properly. Tune it right and your good to go. I'm running the greddy TT on my Z and it's a daily driver. Er, more like bi-daily because I try to keep the miles off of it.

 

My opinion: If you don't have the money to rebuild and you don't have a back up car, you probably should not boost.

my 2 cents.

 

if you blow your engine with the greddy kit....you will be the first.

There are a dozen of us with the kit...using it as a daily driver at 5.5-8.5psi with proper tuning. Tuning is EVERYTHING. Detonation is many many many many times more a destructive force within the cyclinder chamber than any amount of boost. Tune it right...no pinging...and you'll be fine.

If boost 5psi or so....i dont see any issues..just make sure to check your A/F and listing for pinging....just to double check.

 

exactly what is a wideband af guage? is it the same as a a/f guage? i have a really good guy for tuning.......and i plan to not go beyond 5.5 psi i just love the blow off sound and always wanted a f/i car........what clutch is good to go with the tt setup? i plan to get the greddy tt setup with intercooler, polished plenum, iridium spark plugs, u/r pulleys, ground wires, stillen catback, and random tech cats......is this a good combo or is it over kill? also how does the greddy evo2 exhaust sound by the way? werent you scared of blowing your warranty out the water? just looking for your thoughts.

 

A look of companys make A/F guages but they dont use true wideband O2 sensors...they use the standard type O2 sensor like the OEM ones on your cat. Those are worthless for measuring below 13:1 or so...which is where we live in the F/I world. We need accurate measurements in the 11:1-12:1 area....and normal A/F gauges dont cut the mustard. Just make sure it is true wideband. They are much more expensive, but, manditory for proper tuning. If you arent going to mess with tuning much, then just have your dyno guy run the wideband for you. You wont actually have to buy anything.

Clutch is fine for normal driving. It just doesnt like to be repeatedly launched at high RPM's.

 

jon, go the TT, though make sure the engine is tuned for the gas you are using. This is the KEY to reliable engine operation, keep the turbo pressure sensible (5 to 7 psi) and make sure that you have a safe tuning strategy in terms of air/fuel ratios and ignition timing retard under high rpm/load conditions.

Go the TT for sure, dont waste your time or money on Centrifugal blower which has pathetic low to mid RPM power, the TT performance will blow your mind.

Peter

APS

 

Mr APS........pathetic is pretty harsh dont you think? I cannot say enough good things about my Centrifical Vortech Unit. Each type has there positives and negatives.

 

I think APS has a little bias for TT set ups. Considering his company is making one. hehehe

 

To date I know of nobody thats blown an engine do to the boost pressure exceeding the sterngth of the internal engine componets with a Turbo kit. Every blown motor i 've seen were either NOS or Spercharged engines thet blew due to inproper tuning (a/f ratios way to lean in the high revs and boom!) not boost pressure.

If you run a boost 9lbs or less with proper tuning you should not have to worry about blowing the engine as the tensile strength of the internal engine componets can handle it plus the 350z block is built from the factory with nice thick cast iron sleves.

It looks to be that the con rods are the weakest link in the VQ engine but should be ok up to a max of 450 rwhp roughly which is 10 -11 psi roughly ...however if you constantly run your engine to the max you could be playing with fire its too early to tell right now as there are a few people boosting 10-11 psi with stock engines ...they will be the first to know!!

 

If you really want a truly safe TT car then sell your Z and buy a car that comes stock with it. That way you get a factory warranty and no worries about blowing an engine or yourself up. I would seriously consider the Audi TT. It is only a few grand more than the Z new. So by the time you do a TT mod on a Z you have spent way more than the initialy cost difference of the Audi. Admittedly the Audi isn't as nice looking as the Z but it is not bad.

 

My apologies if my post offended you, that was not my intention, though to be frank I am not a big fan of the centrifugal S/C on medium size engines with high rpm operation (6000 + rpm) for many reasons.

The lack of low to mid range torque/power is the most obvious problem with the centrifugal S/C approach (positve displacement S/C on the other hand have quite reasonable low/mid rpm power).

The fact that this approach has no real control of positive pressure at high engine rpm is also a fundamental design problem in my view ( the harder you rev the engine the more positive pressure is developed to the point that it is very dangerous to the engine)

I have driven and tested two brands of supercharger systems and two brands of TT systems during the APS development program and I can assure you that the TT systems are far superior in every facet of performance.

In any event we are all entitled to our opinion and I respect your opinion, my comments are based on engineering data and having the opportunity to test the most common types of F/I to suit the 350Z.

Regards

Peter

 

hugh? Are you kidding? The TT is several grand more than even the most expensive Z. You can buy an Enthusiast Z these days for $28K new. And gee....I think I have about 200 more ponies under the hood....at the wheels! There is no comparison between an Audi TT and a TT Z.

 

you're joking right????

 

ok enough about audi tt's and super chargers......what i wanna know is, if i run a greddy tt setup and never go past 5.5psi, and i have it tuned very well, and the car is checked on once a month and the oil is changed every 1000 miles. using only super gas.......is it safe? mind you i drive pretty calm, just like to hit it every now and then, dont wanna put my tt setup on and the engine blows a month later....how does it feel having the tt setup on the first day? i heard your suppose to break it in for 1500 miles? does it bull are the blow off valves loud? these are the things i need to know!!!! was anybody worried about putting the tt kit on there car?

 

Yes it is safe change your oil every 3000 miles 1000 is overkill
i dont know if a break in period is required. The B.O.V is loud but its a noise that you will love. I personally am not afraid to put a TT kit on my car i believe anything undre 9 psi is fairly safe 5.5 psi is not much but i believe the greddy kit runs out of the box 4.6 psi 334 rwhp 339 rwtq which has safe tuning across the board.
You dont need to tune the greddy kit if you leave it the way it is sef from the factory you only need to tune the system if you want to run more boost.

 

What is psi and how does it work with the TT kit?

 

Audi TT (TT sure doesn't stand from TWIN TURBO)

ROFL

 

PSI (Pounds per square inch) is a unit of measure. PSI measures pressure.

I can tell you how PSI related to the TT kit. PSI is the pressure created by the TT kit.

 

so the greddy tt kit is a go.........i will leave it on factory settings and i change my oil, and i shouldnt have any problems?