We still frying coils with the Ignition Harness ?
I just wanna know ... if I go that route - the modified (diodes) Ignition Harness route... is there any risk of me frying anything ?
Is that "cannot leave key in ON position" thing still true ??
-slay
Is that "cannot leave key in ON position" thing still true ??
-slay
You wont fry anything during normal operation of your car. You will still fry them if you leave the car in the key-on-motor-off position. This is the position that the dash warning lights are illuminating. The ACC position, so you can use the radio and stuff, is fine for any amount of time.
Just keep it out of the "on" position unless the car is running.
The latest eManage firmware upgrade is v.1.39, and I'm curious if the "Z33" support they claim, has solved the coil overheat issue.
Until them...install the diodes, and dont leave the car in the on position too long. If for some reason, you need to leave the key in on for a while, then just unplug your ignition harness from the eManage and you'll be fine.
Just keep it out of the "on" position unless the car is running.
The latest eManage firmware upgrade is v.1.39, and I'm curious if the "Z33" support they claim, has solved the coil overheat issue.
Until them...install the diodes, and dont leave the car in the on position too long. If for some reason, you need to leave the key in on for a while, then just unplug your ignition harness from the eManage and you'll be fine.
Okay this is an UPDATE...
I just spoke with someone at Greddy who seemed pretty knowledgeable. He said that you CAN retard timing on the Greddy kit but you need BOTH the ignition harness AND the "RPM Signal Harness".
I asked him why you needed that 2nd harness and was told that it allows for the signal/electricity to loop around ? Something along those lines...
Basically he assured me that the coils will only fry if you're missing this piece. Why am I the first one to post this little tidbit ?? Does this make sense ? I mean it's coming directly from Greddy... WHATS THE DEAL HERE?
I just spoke with someone at Greddy who seemed pretty knowledgeable. He said that you CAN retard timing on the Greddy kit but you need BOTH the ignition harness AND the "RPM Signal Harness".
I asked him why you needed that 2nd harness and was told that it allows for the signal/electricity to loop around ? Something along those lines...
Basically he assured me that the coils will only fry if you're missing this piece. Why am I the first one to post this little tidbit ?? Does this make sense ? I mean it's coming directly from Greddy... WHATS THE DEAL HERE?
Originally posted by slay2k
Okay this is an UPDATE...
I just spoke with someone at Greddy who seemed pretty knowledgeable. He said that you CAN retard timing on the Greddy kit but you need BOTH the ignition harness AND the "RPM Signal Harness".
I asked him why you needed that 2nd harness and was told that it allows for the signal/electricity to loop around ? Something along those lines...
Basically he assured me that the coils will only fry if you're missing this piece. Why am I the first one to post this little tidbit ?? Does this make sense ? I mean it's coming directly from Greddy... WHATS THE DEAL HERE?
Okay this is an UPDATE...
I just spoke with someone at Greddy who seemed pretty knowledgeable. He said that you CAN retard timing on the Greddy kit but you need BOTH the ignition harness AND the "RPM Signal Harness".
I asked him why you needed that 2nd harness and was told that it allows for the signal/electricity to loop around ? Something along those lines...
Basically he assured me that the coils will only fry if you're missing this piece. Why am I the first one to post this little tidbit ?? Does this make sense ? I mean it's coming directly from Greddy... WHATS THE DEAL HERE?
Gary
Agree with 7Eleven...that guys probably though you were were buying the eManage is a seperate unit, and not as part of the Greddy TT kit, which includes, and needs the harness to function.
Slay..I have run the ignition harness for about 4000 miles, and ETX has been running it even longer than that. No problems at all...
Our cars have direct ignition and the coils are attached over the plugs. If you look at the plugs, there is a black pack over it...that is the coil..and that is what frys when you leave the key in the on position and motor not running.
Most older cars use a distributor, and the coil is one seperate unit that powers ALL of the spark plug wires (looks like a smaller applifier). With the Z, we have one coil pack attached to each plug, and no distributor. The coils get their "pulse" directly from the ECU ignition wires.
If you blow them up, 6 coil packs will run you about $400. Sometimes, you'll only burn one out.
Again, the coils are not in danger unless you keep the car in the on position...and nobody should be doing that anyways. If you need to tune your eManage, and need the "on" position, then just unplug the timing harness from the eManage.
Slay..I have run the ignition harness for about 4000 miles, and ETX has been running it even longer than that. No problems at all...
Our cars have direct ignition and the coils are attached over the plugs. If you look at the plugs, there is a black pack over it...that is the coil..and that is what frys when you leave the key in the on position and motor not running.
Most older cars use a distributor, and the coil is one seperate unit that powers ALL of the spark plug wires (looks like a smaller applifier). With the Z, we have one coil pack attached to each plug, and no distributor. The coils get their "pulse" directly from the ECU ignition wires.
If you blow them up, 6 coil packs will run you about $400. Sometimes, you'll only burn one out.
Again, the coils are not in danger unless you keep the car in the on position...and nobody should be doing that anyways. If you need to tune your eManage, and need the "on" position, then just unplug the timing harness from the eManage.
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i am not a tuning expert, so I've just been playing with the settings to eliminate pinging...
Right now, I have about 5 degrees of retarding accross the board after 3500rpm, and over 4volts of MAF. So as the boost starts to kick in...maybe 3-4psi, the iginition gets retarded.
Originaly, I had close to 10degrees of retard at redline..this was way too much, and my power suffered. And based on my OBDII scan, my stock timing immediately drops to 20degrees of total advance at WOT...regardless of RPM.
Also note I am using 91 octane...if I had 93 octane, I could retard timing much less...and run more boost safely.
Right now, I have about 5 degrees of retarding accross the board after 3500rpm, and over 4volts of MAF. So as the boost starts to kick in...maybe 3-4psi, the iginition gets retarded.
Originaly, I had close to 10degrees of retard at redline..this was way too much, and my power suffered. And based on my OBDII scan, my stock timing immediately drops to 20degrees of total advance at WOT...regardless of RPM.
Also note I am using 91 octane...if I had 93 octane, I could retard timing much less...and run more boost safely.
Originally posted by gq_626
i am not a tuning expert, so I've just been playing with the settings to eliminate pinging...
Right now, I have about 5 degrees of retarding accross the board after 3500rpm, and over 4volts of MAF. So as the boost starts to kick in...maybe 3-4psi, the iginition gets retarded.
Originaly, I had close to 10degrees of retard at redline..this was way too much, and my power suffered. And based on my OBDII scan, my stock timing immediately drops to 20degrees of total advance at WOT...regardless of RPM.
Also note I am using 91 octane...if I had 93 octane, I could retard timing much less...and run more boost safely.
i am not a tuning expert, so I've just been playing with the settings to eliminate pinging...
Right now, I have about 5 degrees of retarding accross the board after 3500rpm, and over 4volts of MAF. So as the boost starts to kick in...maybe 3-4psi, the iginition gets retarded.
Originaly, I had close to 10degrees of retard at redline..this was way too much, and my power suffered. And based on my OBDII scan, my stock timing immediately drops to 20degrees of total advance at WOT...regardless of RPM.
Also note I am using 91 octane...if I had 93 octane, I could retard timing much less...and run more boost safely.
As on Dyno day.. Thinking of pulling out 2 degrees - With your
current pull-out mapping.. You are probably the avant-guard - E-Manage 350Z tuner...

You need to ask Tony a few questions - : What does your stock
Mileage read out..? 56 MPG
What is your favorite color.. ? Red
What is your monthly car Fuel Bill ? For the last three months.
What the f**k is E-01 reading last RPM 15,000 RPM ?
What is your Credit card number and your password?
What is rich, when you need to go to Huntington Beach and do a dyno?
The power is there.. in Wld350Z - but it's all software from here out... As you said..
You need to explain the most simple explaination, of how the E-Manage does override. And how each step.. varies the output..
Cheers Amy
- 
Your thesis my entitle you to a MA in TT Tuning.. Cheers Amy
-
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