My Arias Forged Pistons: Show and Tell
09-13-2004, 06:53 PM
#5
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MMMMMMMMMMM PUUUURRRRRRTTTTTTTYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!! 
Your gonna get your car back from the body shop and put it into the engine shop!!!!!
You have one sweet setup!!!!
Who is going to do your buildup?
Your gonna get your car back from the body shop and put it into the engine shop!!!!!
You have one sweet setup!!!!
Who is going to do your buildup?
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09-13-2004, 07:26 PM
#9
Originally posted by Lorca@Z1
Are you going to have any coatings applied?
Are you going to have any coatings applied?
What type of coating do you recommend?
09-13-2004, 10:31 PM
#15
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wow.. very nice GQ. shiny and ready to be put into a motor. I've heard of Swain Tech coating or something like that.here's a link to provide some research material:
http://www.swaintech.com/autolc.html
Last edited by 350Now; 09-13-2004 at 10:35 PM.
09-13-2004, 11:08 PM
#16
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Awsum Pistons GQ
Originally posted by gq_626
the source of all things good...the wristpin....
the source of all things good...the wristpin....
Cheers Amy
- A work of art...
09-14-2004, 02:28 AM
#17
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Originally posted by axxizzer
do you have to get the Z overbored for the Job??
Will this add or subtract HP, how much more boost do you think you can run?
do you have to get the Z overbored for the Job??
Will this add or subtract HP, how much more boost do you think you can run?
but lowering the compression over a full point, combined with the added strength of the forged pistons, i dont see why 15 or so psi would be a problem, as long as the crank and rods can hold up to the extra cylinder pressure/ possible extra rpm.
from what i heard, the rods are the weak link now
09-14-2004, 04:39 AM
#19
Hehe...thanks everyone for the comments!
Correct, when you go .020 overbore, you need to bore the cylinders out .020 inches. It is a very small amount of material, and really designed to perfect the shape of the bore...not really to increase displacement. Although it does end up increasing displacement from 3.5 to 3.54L....immaterial in my opinion.
Yes, Pauter forged rods are still in in production, and should be here in a couple more weeks. I'll also be installing new rod and main bearings, ARP/SGP Head and Main Studs (that last GB I just did), minor porting and polishing, and a 5 angle valve job. I plan on running roughly 15-17psi and 550-600whp at the absolute max. I'll be upgrading injectors to 650cc or 750cc (GB coming!), and installiing the AAM fuel system I just ordered (possible GB!). Engine management will be a combination of eManage and TS Reflash.
I want to keep the car streetable, and long-living, so I'm not shooting for anything more than 550-600whp. I may go ahead and install Darton sleeves as well, for an added layer of strength, safety, and reliability.
Correct, when you go .020 overbore, you need to bore the cylinders out .020 inches. It is a very small amount of material, and really designed to perfect the shape of the bore...not really to increase displacement. Although it does end up increasing displacement from 3.5 to 3.54L....immaterial in my opinion.
Yes, Pauter forged rods are still in in production, and should be here in a couple more weeks. I'll also be installing new rod and main bearings, ARP/SGP Head and Main Studs (that last GB I just did), minor porting and polishing, and a 5 angle valve job. I plan on running roughly 15-17psi and 550-600whp at the absolute max. I'll be upgrading injectors to 650cc or 750cc (GB coming!), and installiing the AAM fuel system I just ordered (possible GB!). Engine management will be a combination of eManage and TS Reflash.
I want to keep the car streetable, and long-living, so I'm not shooting for anything more than 550-600whp. I may go ahead and install Darton sleeves as well, for an added layer of strength, safety, and reliability.
09-14-2004, 05:29 AM
#20
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The sharp edges around the machined valve pockets should be deburred to eliminate potential hot spots. A demmel and small cutters work well for this purpose. All thats needed is to reshape any sharp edges to a slight radius.