I have the GReddy Oil Catch Can


I have a tail of oil / smoke behind me when I get on it.
I must have a leak somewhere that is dripping oil on my exhaust or something.

 

Yes! However, I was too cheap to buy an empty $100 can so I made up my own in-line filter to strain out all of the oil and blow by vapors. It's inexpensive too! Here's what I did....

I ordered a clear, reusable fuel filter from Jegs for about $10. I'm sure you could get the same piece almost anywhere, Summit Racing for example. It is the kind that is round, and has barbed end caps which can be removed to access a 2-5 micron bronze filter element. I then opened it up and packed the dead air space in front of the bronze element with filter gauze, and then spliced the whole thing into the pcv hose just before it connects to the manifold. Because it is clear, at every oil change I remove the engine cover and inspect the gauze. If it has become oil and dirt soaked, I replace it. If not, I run it a little longer. So far it has proved very effective at actually filtering the nasty crankcase vapors that gum up your intake, etc. I still don't see how the catch cans would be nearly as effective as they have no way of removing the suspended vapors. It seems to me that all they would contain is the small % that actually falls out of suspension. Anyway, that's my .02 worth.

 

found out what the tail of white smoke was behind my car....
it was my rear tires rubbing.
Not alot, no gashes in the tires, just enough to leave a coat of black rubber on my inner wheel well and the slightest sign of it touching on my tires, but nice trail of smoke behind me...

Glad I found out what it was...

 

When I stomp on my greddy kit I have a puff of smoke too. I bet its blowback. It looks cheezy, and ricers are like, dude your car is on fire. So I guess I need a catch can. Is there any detailed install pages. I would like to do it myself, consitering it sounds pretty easy.
-Mike

 

yes a catchcan install write up would be good i want to put one myself

 

Okay, so I went to my mechanic who installed the PE kit with a print-out of this thread, and he couldn't understand what Gurgen was talking about.

The valve is not connected to the intake tube, as Gurgen mentioned was supposedly PE instructions, but is connected to the stock location.

The nipple on the intake tube has a rubber cap on it!

The installer and myself went through the original PE instructions and there isn't even a MENTION of how to connect these. Gurgen, maybe you could point out where in the instructions it says so? I couldn't find it.

Perhaps your installer made an assumption that it was supposed to be like that ? Sorry I don't mean to come off rude or anything, I just can't see it anywhere.

Anyway I took a picture of my engine bay (covers off), so you can see what I'm talking about. Is this the "final result" that you speak of ? If so, how could I still get oil sucked into the cylinders ?

 

This is the way they were installed! My installer told me so because there were no specific instructions he could find to do otherwise.. so that's the way he put them on.

 

slay

That IS the correct way.... Mine was the other way around (the cap was on that tube sticking out from under the plenum.. to which your hose was connected.

And Slay.... the way mine was originally installed IS in teh instructions. Page 16, step 16.: "Install the genuine blowby hose to the suction pipe R-side. Cover up the surge tank side with the blind mask" This is a horrible translation. Generally, in these instructons: genuine=stock, surge tank has got to be the intake manifold, while the blind mask is, I'm sure, the rubber cap.

Step 17 describes the left side, which is assembled just like the stock car is.

Gurgen

 

Gurgen, thanks for the response.

Yeah that sentence makes no friggin sense at all. Surge tank side ? BLIND MASK ? What the hell...

Anyway, if this was not the source of my problem, then why did I get oil into the cylinder(s) ? Do you think a catch-can would help in this case ?

My installer thinks that I simply over-rev'd the engine (7100rpm)... but shouldn't the engine be able to take that without such problems ?

Any ideas ? I dont want this happening again.

 

There was a lot of oil in my system when my car was NA, and so is the case in a few other G's and Z's that I asked about. It may be that the increased suction @ boost introduces much more oil.

Either way... I would install catch cans and route the blow by from BOTH sides of the engine to the catch can and back, and maybe even consider having filters (in a transparent case so that I can monitor how fast they competely clog up) on the outbound lines (awat from the catch can) to catch the oil vapors.

Gurgen

 

Hmm okay... on another note what exactly is blowby anyway ? And how does a catch-can operate technically ? Also, what are the outbound lines you speak of ?

 

Blowby is what gas and air mixture excapes through the rings and/or valve guides.

Blowby is obviously much worse in a worn old engine.

Usually a poor compression test result is a good prediction of blowby.

 

outbound = lines that come out of the catch can in the direction of the intake manifold and the d-side intake tube nipple (the two places where your current pcv system connects).

G

 

So Gurgen,

Do you think getting a catch-can would prevent this problem from happening in the future ? Or do you think it'll be a waste of money ?

 

Eeeeh. Catch cans are for catching Oil pushed out of the motor by blow by. The vapors are supposed to be sucked into the intake to be burnt off as required by the dmv to run clean.

 

So ETX, you think getting a catch-can would prevent my problem from reoccuring in the future ?

 

i think getting a catch can can only help.... the oil vapors are ok from what i have been hearing. And if you want to get rid of those those too, get a filter.

G