Connecting Rods
#1
Connecting Rods
Hey Guys,
A few posts have indicated the need to upgrade connecting rods in the 350z when going FI. As you know, I am planning to go with an HKS setup (which also recommends upgraded C-Rods). My question to you, the 350z elite tuners, is what are YOUR recommendations for the best connecting rod?
A few posts have indicated the need to upgrade connecting rods in the 350z when going FI. As you know, I am planning to go with an HKS setup (which also recommends upgraded C-Rods). My question to you, the 350z elite tuners, is what are YOUR recommendations for the best connecting rod?
#4
Re: Connecting Rods
Originally posted by ReavTek
Hey Guys,
A few posts have indicated the need to upgrade connecting rods in the 350z when going FI. As you know, I am planning to go with an HKS setup (which also recommends upgraded C-Rods). My question to you, the 350z elite tuners, is what are YOUR recommendations for the best connecting rod?
Hey Guys,
A few posts have indicated the need to upgrade connecting rods in the 350z when going FI. As you know, I am planning to go with an HKS setup (which also recommends upgraded C-Rods). My question to you, the 350z elite tuners, is what are YOUR recommendations for the best connecting rod?
#7
Yeah, we did a big group buy on Pauter Rods...good stuff. I agree that with the basic HKS kit, it's doubtful you'll need new con rods, especially give the linear nature of most SC's. With the TT's it's a good idea to change out rods, becuase the trq hits incredibly low in the power band.
Phunk was able to tune his car with HKS Pro F-CON to over 450whp on the stock internals, but opinions differ on the longetivity of high boost on the TT kits. Several memebers have snapped rods at very modest boost pressures...well under 400whp and purportedly, proper tuning. So who really knows at this point.
That said, to my knowledge, nobody has snapped rods with any SC kits. They have blown rings, and burned pistons...but the rods seem to be holding up fine for the SC.
If you are set on getting rods...contact me...I am a prefered vendor now with Pauter.
Phunk was able to tune his car with HKS Pro F-CON to over 450whp on the stock internals, but opinions differ on the longetivity of high boost on the TT kits. Several memebers have snapped rods at very modest boost pressures...well under 400whp and purportedly, proper tuning. So who really knows at this point.
That said, to my knowledge, nobody has snapped rods with any SC kits. They have blown rings, and burned pistons...but the rods seem to be holding up fine for the SC.
If you are set on getting rods...contact me...I am a prefered vendor now with Pauter.
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#9
You dont necessarily want lighter when you go forced induction. Strength is the most important factor...rather than weight. If you look at the skinny wimpy stock rods, there is no way you'll get a stronger rod without additional weight. Pauter and others are using the strongest 4340 chromoly steel to make their rods, and that is the recommended material for F/I. When my rods arrive, I'll photograph them side by side, and you'll know what I mean.
Pauter makes a lighter weight rod, but its only recommending for non F/I and higher reving applications.
Pauter makes a lighter weight rod, but its only recommending for non F/I and higher reving applications.
#10
Originally posted by gq_626
You dont necessarily want lighter when you go forced induction. Strength is the most important factor...rather than weight. If you look at the skinny wimpy stock rods, there is no way you'll get a stronger rod without additional weight. Pauter and others are using the strongest 4340 chromoly steel to make their rods, and that is the recommended material for F/I. When my rods arrive, I'll photograph them side by side, and you'll know what I mean.
Pauter makes a lighter weight rod, but its only recommending for non F/I and higher reving applications.
You dont necessarily want lighter when you go forced induction. Strength is the most important factor...rather than weight. If you look at the skinny wimpy stock rods, there is no way you'll get a stronger rod without additional weight. Pauter and others are using the strongest 4340 chromoly steel to make their rods, and that is the recommended material for F/I. When my rods arrive, I'll photograph them side by side, and you'll know what I mean.
Pauter makes a lighter weight rod, but its only recommending for non F/I and higher reving applications.
#11
Originally posted by gq_626
Oh, and if you MUST have lightness with strength...then Pauter makes a titanium forged rod...for a mere $800.....PER ROD. wow..that's like $4800 for the set!
Oh, and if you MUST have lightness with strength...then Pauter makes a titanium forged rod...for a mere $800.....PER ROD. wow..that's like $4800 for the set!
#13
Originally posted by ravaz
We took a picture of the stock rods next to some pauter rods. I'll have to post a picture of them tomorrow. They are like 3 1/2 times the width of the stock rods, beefy f*ckers.
We took a picture of the stock rods next to some pauter rods. I'll have to post a picture of them tomorrow. They are like 3 1/2 times the width of the stock rods, beefy f*ckers.
#17
Sorry guys. I would have uploaded them yesterday but the board was hosed up. Anyway, here are the pics. I lied,they are like twice the width or so of the stock rods and alot heavier...
Stock rods/pistons vs Pauter rods/CP Pistons:
Threw in the last 2 for the hell of it... Enjoy.
Stock rods/pistons vs Pauter rods/CP Pistons:
Threw in the last 2 for the hell of it... Enjoy.
#19
Originally posted by gq_626
Damn....they look incredibly beefier than stock. Very nice...can't wait till ours arrive.
Damn....they look incredibly beefier than stock. Very nice...can't wait till ours arrive.
#20
Originally posted by MIAPLAYA
Now that PM I sent looks more and more definite doesn't it...
Now that PM I sent looks more and more definite doesn't it...