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maximum rwhp our engine can handle?

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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 05:12 PM
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Default maximum rwhp our engine can handle?

can you guys tell me the maximum rwhp our engines can handle? im planning on doing a turbo and want to know the engine's limit (so i dont push it). what do you guys think is a safe amount of rwhp without doing internals? thanks
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:52 AM
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probably 350whp
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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I have seen a few threads of people posting dyno's of over 400rwhp on the stock internals, but I don't necessarily believe this is a safe level. I just would say whatever your car makes at 8psi would be the max I would go on the stock internals. I would relate it to the amount of boost you are running rather than the power you are making, cause everybody's engine is a slight bit different than the next guy's. Just make sure you are tuned right before running more boost though. Alot of it is based on tuning as well.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 01:24 PM
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At least 420rwhp. The guy who built Tim Goodman's car (featured in Sport Compact Car) is the same guy working with me. Tim Goodman's Vortech S/C recently had a pulley swap (Vortech 2.87) done and is currently at 421rwhp. He primarily drives the car on the track and competes in the 155mph+ class. The car is driven hard and to this date has had no problems. He is making approximately 10.5psi boost.

I am currently at 351rwhp and I am going to do the pulley swap next week.

Then again, every car is different and will react differently to mods.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 01:43 PM
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It will vary from engine to engine, as all the components may have their own failure point. The question you asked is not an accurate one...The question should be "how much whp can our engines handle for long term use"? and your answer will be ZERO..There are no garanties that your engine will not fail at 5whp or at 500whp.My friend broke a completely bone stock engine, and I have pushed mine into the 400 hp range for over 12,000 miles now...It really is a little bit of proper tuning and ALOT of luck in my opinion..
The engine was never designed for FI in the first place and this is tha main limiting factor to start with. When you add a turbo onto an engine that was designed to operate at 10.3:1 compression ratio NA, you are naturally increasing the cylinder pressure and temps. beyond what the parts were designed for. Remember when Nissan designed this car, cost was their MAIN target, NOT power. They may have cut costs in anyway possible by using cheaper metals to make the engine components or by cutting back in the quality of materials.So you just dont know what you have to start with.
Also keep in mind the engine is their common "cookie cutter" engine that they throw in most of their cars, and it is MASS produced, so there are bound to be a few questionable ones floating around out there.Now compound that by adding boost and what you have is a time bomb..
Some people will disagree and say "the VQ engine is one of the top ten engines" blah blah blah...It is a good engine and very big for a V6, its basically the big block of the import world..However, it is tuned in the Z for NA and is probably on the ragged edge of knock in stock form for most power output. I feel that if your going to look to boost the Z you must build the engine to do so safely and for longevity..All these guys on stock bottom ends running 400+ WHP are eventually going to post here how they blew their motors up and blame their tuners, when in fact its their own fault for pushing the engine to TWICE its designed power output...
Just my input..
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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I just detonated the # 4 cyl. with the 3.12 pully at 9.5 psi . Just make sure you dont get to aggressive with the timing like I did .
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 02:06 PM
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If your going to boost why not just get new pistons that can handle it. Also, its not the compession that is not meant for boost, it is the materials they used, and the way they built the motor. I have seen many people run boosted cars that started at 9:1 comp and they switched it up to 10:1 and where running around 10psi. You can not boost as much, but they wanted it to feel streetable and to keep that extra power from the high comp with boost.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 02:16 PM
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Originally posted by Daking350z
It will vary from engine to engine, as all the components may have their own failure point. The question you asked is not an accurate one...The question should be "how much whp can our engines handle for long term use"? and your answer will be ZERO..There are no garanties that your engine will not fail at 5whp or at 500whp.My friend broke a completely bone stock engine, and I have pushed mine into the 400 hp range for over 12,000 miles now...It really is a little bit of proper tuning and ALOT of luck in my opinion..
The engine was never designed for FI in the first place and this is tha main limiting factor to start with. When you add a turbo onto an engine that was designed to operate at 10.3:1 compression ratio NA, you are naturally increasing the cylinder pressure and temps. beyond what the parts were designed for. Remember when Nissan designed this car, cost was their MAIN target, NOT power. They may have cut costs in anyway possible by using cheaper metals to make the engine components or by cutting back in the quality of materials.So you just dont know what you have to start with.
Also keep in mind the engine is their common "cookie cutter" engine that they throw in most of their cars, and it is MASS produced, so there are bound to be a few questionable ones floating around out there.Now compound that by adding boost and what you have is a time bomb..
Some people will disagree and say "the VQ engine is one of the top ten engines" blah blah blah...It is a good engine and very big for a V6, its basically the big block of the import world..However, it is tuned in the Z for NA and is probably on the ragged edge of knock in stock form for most power output. I feel that if your going to look to boost the Z you must build the engine to do so safely and for longevity..All these guys on stock bottom ends running 400+ WHP are eventually going to post here how they blew their motors up and blame their tuners, when in fact its their own fault for pushing the engine to TWICE its designed power output...
Just my input..
For the first time in the history of MY350Z.com, I agree (for the most part) with DAKING...
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 02:30 PM
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I just dynoed at 348HP running 4.9 psi untuned, GReddy TT kit. Yeah be very afraid of damaging your engine with FI. Work on your internals and you can up the boost if you need that many horses. I kept my HP and Torque curves almost exactly the same as my NA setup with just UR Pulley Set, Pop Charger and RT Cats. Be sure to get new connecting rods and pistons 9.0 if you're going high boost, those are the weakest link. Changing your cams would add greatly to your hp but may make your engine louder (bigger lope). But I'm almost positive most aftermarket cams will be made of better material than the stock setup.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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play it safe, lower compression and get forged rods
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 08:23 AM
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"If your going to boost why not just get new pistons that can handle it."

Why? Are you buying?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 06:40 PM
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400 rwhp average.
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