Any clutch recommendations for FI......
Originally posted by gq_626
They are night and day in terms of streetability. THe tilton clutch and flywheel is incredibly grabby for the street. I drove Jason's car at Performance Nissan, and I stalled it twice. It has an instant on/off feel to it....it does NOT slip...it chatters like a mo fo.
The Stage 3 probably feels also like stock in terms of pedal pressure, and streetability. But the Stage 4 puck style design will be notably grabbier....but not nearly as bad as the tilton.
Also, the Stage 4 uses a carbon disc, which provides great heat dissapation, and would help up better for repeated track use/abuse. The Stage 3 is a Kevlar disc...FYI....not as good for heat dissapation.
Overalll, I have heard great things about CM clutches, and lots of Honda folks and Evo people beat the crap out of these inexpensive clutches, and are very pleased with the performance and longevity. Like I said, they are cheap....so you could replace them 4 times for the price of 1 multi disc carbon racing clutch....at least parts only.
They are night and day in terms of streetability. THe tilton clutch and flywheel is incredibly grabby for the street. I drove Jason's car at Performance Nissan, and I stalled it twice. It has an instant on/off feel to it....it does NOT slip...it chatters like a mo fo.
The Stage 3 probably feels also like stock in terms of pedal pressure, and streetability. But the Stage 4 puck style design will be notably grabbier....but not nearly as bad as the tilton.
Also, the Stage 4 uses a carbon disc, which provides great heat dissapation, and would help up better for repeated track use/abuse. The Stage 3 is a Kevlar disc...FYI....not as good for heat dissapation.
Overalll, I have heard great things about CM clutches, and lots of Honda folks and Evo people beat the crap out of these inexpensive clutches, and are very pleased with the performance and longevity. Like I said, they are cheap....so you could replace them 4 times for the price of 1 multi disc carbon racing clutch....at least parts only.
Just to chime in on the streetability of the Stage 4. It is not extremely difficult to drive, but it grabs instantly. The clutch is not too noisy, compared to my old OS Giken clutch. It does tend to make some noise when trying to slip the clutch and when the pucks grab, it jumps if you're going slow. Not too good for a daily driver in traffic, but fun on the street!
Originally posted by Speedracer
I've heard good things about Exedy for RACE applications. Went to their webiste....didn't seem to street friendly. If you know otherwise, please elaborate.
I've heard good things about Exedy for RACE applications. Went to their webiste....didn't seem to street friendly. If you know otherwise, please elaborate.
), but it isn't streetable. So I may get the Clutchmaster Stage 3 clutch, or ACT clutch (with JUN flywheel). On gscmotorsports.com it says that the ACT holds up to 517ft./lb., 6-puck disc holds 662ft./lb. So I don't know for sure yet. Maybe i'll get the ACT street disc first until it can't handle anymore and then get the race disc, ACT is very reputable from what i've heard.
Whos got an opinion on which aftermarket clutch is as quiet or quieter than the stock clutch? The following are the items in order of importance that will dictate which clutch I buy.
1. QUIETNESS
2. Drivability
3. Power handling
Anyone have an opinion on what I should buy?
Jeff
1. QUIETNESS
2. Drivability
3. Power handling
Anyone have an opinion on what I should buy?
Jeff
The choice largely depends on what your target rwhp is.
In my case , I'm targeting >600rwhp from a built long block and APS TT turned up over 1bar. So I am seriously considering a Carbon-carbon setup from either ATS or RPS. It meets the streetablity criteria with a little noise due ot lightened lfywheel, but these are both very pricey ar >$2300. For an NA or low bost FI this woufl be enormous overkill. At the <400rwhp level there are many many choices.
In my case , I'm targeting >600rwhp from a built long block and APS TT turned up over 1bar. So I am seriously considering a Carbon-carbon setup from either ATS or RPS. It meets the streetablity criteria with a little noise due ot lightened lfywheel, but these are both very pricey ar >$2300. For an NA or low bost FI this woufl be enormous overkill. At the <400rwhp level there are many many choices.
Originally posted by G3po
The choice largely depends on what your target rwhp is.
In my case , I'm targeting >600rwhp from a built long block and APS TT turned up over 1bar. So I am seriously considering a Carbon-carbon setup from either ATS or RPS. It meets the streetablity criteria with a little noise due ot lightened lfywheel, but these are both very pricey ar >$2300. For an NA or low bost FI this woufl be enormous overkill. At the <400rwhp level there are many many choices.
The choice largely depends on what your target rwhp is.
In my case , I'm targeting >600rwhp from a built long block and APS TT turned up over 1bar. So I am seriously considering a Carbon-carbon setup from either ATS or RPS. It meets the streetablity criteria with a little noise due ot lightened lfywheel, but these are both very pricey ar >$2300. For an NA or low bost FI this woufl be enormous overkill. At the <400rwhp level there are many many choices.
Originally posted by Lorca@Z1
We are doing the same setup with the same targeted goal and have decided to go with the RPS Max Street. Based on our experience with RPS clutches they are significantly underated as far as capacity, i.e., my 490 rated Sport Street clutch has had zero problems holding 530-580 rwhp.
We are doing the same setup with the same targeted goal and have decided to go with the RPS Max Street. Based on our experience with RPS clutches they are significantly underated as far as capacity, i.e., my 490 rated Sport Street clutch has had zero problems holding 530-580 rwhp.
Is the RPS Max street easy to slip and how much stiffer is the pedal.
Thanx much.
The Max Street is easier to slip than the Max 6 Puck and just a little harder than the Sport Street. I have not driven a 350Z with the Max Street on it but on the 300ZX it is about 1/4 stiffer than stock, still very well within the daily driver limits in my opinion.
Hope that helped!
Hope that helped!
Originally posted by Lorca@Z1
The Max Street is easier to slip than the Max 6 Puck and just a little harder than the Sport Street. I have not driven a 350Z with the Max Street on it but on the 300ZX it is about 1/4 stiffer than stock, still very well within the daily driver limits in my opinion.
Hope that helped!
The Max Street is easier to slip than the Max 6 Puck and just a little harder than the Sport Street. I have not driven a 350Z with the Max Street on it but on the 300ZX it is about 1/4 stiffer than stock, still very well within the daily driver limits in my opinion.
Hope that helped!
So basically so far it's between the clutch masters stage 3 and the RPS max street for streetablility? Price wise the clutch masters seems to be more expensive..so can i safely say it's better? or are they still equivalent. Also what are the options from ACT for this type of level also? i went to their website and it was kinda vague with no pictures.
the ACT is on our site http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=1149
Very easy to drive, and holds to 517 lb feet of torque
Very easy to drive, and holds to 517 lb feet of torque
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
the ACT is on our site http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=1149
Very easy to drive, and holds to 517 lb feet of torque
the ACT is on our site http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ne&prodid=1149
Very easy to drive, and holds to 517 lb feet of torque
I use ATS triple carbons in many of my setups as they can handle 1000 HP with ease even with the lighter pressure plate. They are very smooth and you can order a soft type if you want perfectly easy to drive type engagement. Those are rated at 800 HP capable. The nicest part is that they last for a super long time. I've never had to rebuild one but you can order the parts to if need be. With carbon composite disc material you get triple life expectancy over cero-metallic disc clutches plus higher thermal resistance. The ACT is an excellent choice for a street milder person who doesn't plan on going crazy with the car.
Originally posted by MEGA_BB6_Turbo
So basically so far it's between the clutch masters stage 3 and the RPS max street for streetablility? Price wise the clutch masters seems to be more expensive..so can i safely say it's better? or are they still equivalent. Also what are the options from ACT for this type of level also? i went to their website and it was kinda vague with no pictures.
So basically so far it's between the clutch masters stage 3 and the RPS max street for streetablility? Price wise the clutch masters seems to be more expensive..so can i safely say it's better? or are they still equivalent. Also what are the options from ACT for this type of level also? i went to their website and it was kinda vague with no pictures.
I like the twin-plate clutch from or triple if your horsepower numbers require it.
I will be running a Cusco Twin Plate on my 240SX putting out about 400 at the wheels.
OS Giken
Ogura Racing Clutch
Cusco
Exedy
HKS
BL/TZ
ATS
are some Japanese makers of the Twin-Plate carbon clutch.
I will be running a Cusco Twin Plate on my 240SX putting out about 400 at the wheels.
OS Giken
Ogura Racing Clutch
Cusco
Exedy
HKS
BL/TZ
ATS
are some Japanese makers of the Twin-Plate carbon clutch.
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