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so pissed..got dynoed today

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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 10:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by diablo1356
you think it would be better to just take off the dual exhaust and put the oem one back in..then add hfc and a pulley?
It kinda seems like you know something is wrong with your car and your not filling us in. We are all giving you options, but your still looking at your car. Dude, relax, take a breath, have a beer, go race another G, but not in that order! lol!
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #22  
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Your problem is understanding how the ECU works and the Dynojet numbers seem accurate to me for the weather conditions that you described. Without getting too technical (in layman's terms), The stock ECU has several fuel & timing maps and selects the one that it sees most appropriate for your application and realtime conditions. Higher temperatures, lower octane and non-aggresive driving habits lead to the more conservative maps being selected to avoid knock or conserve fuel. Higher octane fuels have a higher resistance to preignition. Breather mods usually throw off the parameters that the ECU wants to see from the sensors monitoring your engine conditions. If your ECU doesn't like the voltages it sees, it will select conservative maps to preserve your engine. In a nutshell, you need a piggy-back and a good tune to extract power out of almost any bolt on mod.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:06 PM
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I don't know the stats of your G, but a few things pop into my mind (and not stating what has already been mentioned on this post):

1. What size rims are you using? If you have 20's on.................
2. What type of gas were you using? With gas prices today, I'm not surprised people try to use regular gas and hope the car performs the same.
3. Is your traction control on during the test?
4. Was your A/C on during the test?
5. Was your parking brake completely released? (Might be quite obvious when you burn up your parking brakes).
6. Do you drive your G like a grocery getter everyday? The ECU will pick up your driving habits.
7. Did the dyno operator use the big airflow fan to dyno your car?
8. Have you tried reseting your ECU after you installed your mods?
9. Was the dyno charts given to you SAE corrected for the hot weather and humidity?
10. O well, list is getting too long............
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #24  
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maybe u need to put on all the stickers of the parts u bought, i heard thats how you activate them. oh and make sure the stickers are all one on top of each other on your door.
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FLZ_Boy
I don't know the stats of your G, but a few things pop into my mind (and not stating what has already been mentioned on this post):

1. What size rims are you using? If you have 20's on.................
2. What type of gas were you using? With gas prices today, I'm not surprised people try to use regular gas and hope the car performs the same.
3. Is your traction control on during the test?
4. Was your A/C on during the test?
5. Was your parking brake completely released? (Might be quite obvious when you burn up your parking brakes).
6. Do you drive your G like a grocery getter everyday? The ECU will pick up your driving habits.
7. Did the dyno operator use the big airflow fan to dyno your car?
8. Have you tried reseting your ECU after you installed your mods?
9. Was the dyno charts given to you SAE corrected for the hot weather and humidity?
10. O well, list is getting too long............

1.stock 18s
2. always use premium
3. vdc was off
4. ac was off
5. pk was completely off
6. drive my car hard most of the time
7.nope. no fan
8. yeah i always reset.
9. no
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Aldweik
Your problem is understanding how the ECU works and the Dynojet numbers seem accurate to me for the weather conditions that you described. Without getting too technical (in layman's terms), The stock ECU has several fuel & timing maps and selects the one that it sees most appropriate for your application and realtime conditions. Higher temperatures, lower octane and non-aggresive driving habits lead to the more conservative maps being selected to avoid knock or conserve fuel. Higher octane fuels have a higher resistance to preignition. Breather mods usually throw off the parameters that the ECU wants to see from the sensors monitoring your engine conditions. If your ECU doesn't like the voltages it sees, it will select conservative maps to preserve your engine. In a nutshell, you need a piggy-back and a good tune to extract power out of almost any bolt on mod.

according to the dyno my a/f was fine..there for i wouldnt need a piggyback right?
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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a civic with a G35 badge doesn't give you more HP
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bacalhau16
It kinda seems like you know something is wrong with your car and your not filling us in. We are all giving you options, but your still looking at your car. Dude, relax, take a breath, have a beer, go race another G, but not in that order! lol!

i feel that there is something wrong with my car now..like something is making it lose power...thats why im contemplating adding hfc,pulley, and putting the oem stock exhaust back...
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:33 PM
  #29  
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From: dartmouth
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How long ago did you add the exhaust though. I mean something like that, the power lost wouldve been noticed right away. Did your car ever feel slower after putting on a new mod?

Not sure if no fan is all that big a deal, but I cant imagine that it would help you. When a car is moving, its designed to flow air to cool off various aspects of the car, including the cooling system, which if for some reason it was overheating just a tad, would reduce power and such.

In any case, you still need to relax and go race. Put it on video too, so we can all watch!
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Old Jun 25, 2006 | 11:37 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by bacalhau16
How long ago did you add the exhaust though. I mean something like that, the power lost wouldve been noticed right away. Did your car ever feel slower after putting on a new mod?

Not sure if no fan is all that big a deal, but I cant imagine that it would help you. When a car is moving, its designed to flow air to cool off various aspects of the car, including the cooling system, which if for some reason it was overheating just a tad, would reduce power and such.

In any case, you still need to relax and go race. Put it on video too, so we can all watch!

my car never felt slower...i did feel a slight loss in low end pull put after 3k my car would pull hard..i recently took out my pop charger though and felt a slight gain in the low end..im thinking that doing the oem exhaust would give me back my torque and the hfc would more than compensate for the lack of true dual exhaust
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 12:17 AM
  #31  
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hey bro, I think that custom exhaust is draining your power. I would get a better exhaust and a better intake (put the popcharger back in). You prolly gain 25whp right there, since you're gaining back the power you're losing from the exhaust + the gains on top of that. Something's definitely not right about your numbers. I've gotten massive gains with my boltons on my 5AT.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 08:07 AM
  #32  
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If it wasn't SAE corrected, that is probably why you think its reading low. Like others have said, without a baseline you really don't know if you gained or lost power. 215 uncorrected HP/tq on a hot day is not bad. I think I put down about 221 uncorrected on a hot day in Phoenix.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #33  
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I would dyno another time on a dynojet with a fan, so it can be realistic. At 120-140mph with no airflow causes the car to get hot as hell.

P.S. I would be pissed too

-Awad (Just dynojetted a 251/240 with mods at 95 degrees)
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 10:54 AM
  #34  
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Wow.. so you dyno'd without a fan, which could explain some power loss due to heating AND the dyno wasn't even corrected.

Get the damn thing on a dyno with a fan and get the results corrected this time. You should do a bit of research first before posting on here or getting the car on a dyno. You should've known about those things. SAE correction will probably show higher numbers, since you said the car was on the dyno on a hot and humid day with no fan to cool the already hot car.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #35  
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My car made 200rwhp uncorrected and 235rwhp corrected. So go back and get an SAE corrected dyno sheet this time.


Plus to whoever said that a 5AT should be dynoed in 3rd gear is wrong. You dyno the 5AT in 4th and the 6MT in 5th.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #36  
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215 uncorrected should get you mid 14's in the quarter. I only dynoed 200hp 195 tq uncorrected and i can get 14.9's. 215 isn't that bad, just like everyone said the heat is killing you.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
+1 on Z > G

With those mods you should definitely be puttin down a bit more than 215 whp, but then you do have a G so I dont know.
Definately not true.

The Z and G should be getting the same dynos. The only difference being weight, which is the only reason why the Z is a little bit faster than the G. Something is definately wrong with this dyno, for a G, you should definately be getting 250+ since most 05-06 G35 6MT dyno at around 235-245 whp
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 08:39 PM
  #38  
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Damn people calm down. I was kidding about the Z > G. Did you not notice the smiley face? Sheesh, people can't take a joke.

Also, I heard that the G has a slightly more restrictive exhaust system than the Z. Any info on that?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 08:42 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
Damn people calm down. I was kidding about the Z > G. Did you not notice the smiley face? Sheesh, people can't take a joke.

Also, I heard that the G has a slightly more restrictive exhaust system than the Z. Any info on that?
Some G owners are pretty sensitive about Z > G or faster or handle better.....Please keep that kind of comments away
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #40  
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Haha, fine. I don't want to make them cry.. JK

But, it is true though. Stock for stock, performance wise, Z > G (right, due to the weight blah blah)
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