Technosquare has a generic ECU map for most modification combinations, but they can not predict every little tuning need. Not every engine is the same, nor do they all respond the same to mods. One cars ECU map does not necessarily mean that it will work for another, but it should hopefully be close. The reason you may have to send it back and forth is to get it right. If you live close to TS then you can go there and have it done the right way. Its too bad our ECU is difficult to manipulate because it is the key to making very good power with the NA mods as well as FI. It is not that bad to send it back and forth, and its worth it since tuning your car after multiple mods is highly important for power and for reliability.

 

I think Im more worried about the costs associated with continuing to send it back and forth.

 

So, after one gets the reflash, how does one know when it needs to be sent back to ts for further tuning?

 

lower a/f means RICHER situation, not leaner; his ecu is adding more fuel. 10.5 is way rich. I think 13 is stoichiometric.

 

It is not very expensive to send it back and forth as you only have to pay for it to be sent out. The way you know if it needs tweaking is by monitoring the A/F ratio and timing. Anyone who is afraid of having to do this should not be modifying their cars too aggressively as you could create a lean situation which will either harm the car or cause the ECU to compensate and performance could suffer maybe even worse than stock.

 

I remember reading something a while back from TS that if you give them a specific list of your mods and possibly a dyno sheet,that they would be able to program the ECU for A/F and Timing, so with that said what would be the reason to have to tweak it again? Wouldn't it be right on the first time?

 

I got my car dynoed today w/ the topspeed headers on it, only differance from yours if mine is a 6mt.



I have everything listed in my sig image, and am also putting down lower numbers then I would think from these mods.

Also, my A/F seems to be just fine which makes me worry on finding a fix...

I don't have a baseline to work from.

Andrew

 

If TS does not have your car in the shop on the dyno watching the A/F and timing as they adjust the ECU, then there is no way they can always get it right the first time out. Like I said, you may have headers but those headers may result in different needs than another brand of headers and so on. It is still worth every penny to have your ECU reflashed to get your A/F and timing right. If your car is not running better after "good" modifications, then the ECU needs to be on your short list of reasons. There are other solutions such as a stand alone or ECU piggyback setup, but this will still require some knowledge and ability to monitor A/F ratio and timing while making adjustments.

 

As much information as you can provide TS with about your car and how it is performing, the better. If you have dyno sheets, then send them along with A/F curves and timing information. This will definately help them to reflash your ECU with a flash that will work for your setup.

 

Right, so if his dyno shows his pull starts lean at 14 and then richens to 13 isn't his stock ECU doing it's job or is anything over 13 dangerous?

And if 13 is the target why does TS want to set it 10.5-12.5. Safety margin?

 

Andrew, I don't see HF cats in your sig...that from what I understand is a bigger bottleneck than the stock headers. Might want to consider this for your next mod.

 

First off 14.7 is the stoichiometric that is 14.7 parts air to one part fuel....

Second most NA cars should run 14-13.3 ish for max power and proper setup...

Turbo car should run somewhere around 12 to allow for the higher pressure in the cylinder.

So anyone who is tuning a NA car for 10.5 is lossing power and is also gonna be smoking like a bit*h... Maybe if a car is gonna run a dry nitrous set up but that still sounds very rich to me.

Last no 13 is not lean at all and is pretty ideal on most NA cars...

Also I know that after riding in RAR's car before and after the headers the butt dyno says there is more pull in the middle RPMs....

 

Well that settles it...when i get my reflash, i'm not gonna mail it in; i'm driving up to Torrance to have it done in person. My baby is worth 8 hours of vacation pay.

 

Hey Zach,
Could you please weigh your stock headers to give us an idea of wt savings? I know my topspeeds weigh 6.5 lb ea.

 

With this car you want your A/F to be 12.8 to 13.3 NA. One thing that the ECU will do to prevent detonation when running a bit lean is to pull timing which will make the A/F ratio look good but performance wise, you are losing out. Without monitoring your timing at the same time you can not tell the whole story. If you loose power with "good" mods and your A/F looks ok, then either that dyno is messed up or timing is being pulled something terrible.