What's up with the split lock washer in that picture of nuts and bolts?

Is that part of the kit or did someone add that later?

Chris

 

Ok so in summary then, the pic that z quicksilver posted has all the bolts that need to be purchased? What does the total for all that cost approximately? Also, is it pretty intuitive which bolt goes where? Hopefully hypersprite will be able to help me with the install but I'd like to have as much info going in so there are no surprises.

ravi

 

buying the bolts isn't really that big of a deal and only cost a couple of bucks more....i think the reward of the performance is worth it imo.

 

I was surprised people are using split washers on the aluminum plenum with bolts that are supposed to be torqued to a specific spec.

Chris

 

Is that a problem? Whats the difference between a split washer and a normal washer?

 

split washer has the rubber bottom. normal washer (which comes with the AAM) has integrated o-ring in the center of the washer.

when using a rubber split washer, the torquing is unaccurate cuz of the rubber's elasticity i think....

guys i highly recommend you check your bolts every so often. make sure theres no small leakage.

 

Split washers are not the rubber washers, they are the lock washers (pile of 18 in the picture).

Normally split washers are not used on aluminum because they mar the surface. This can create uneven clamping surfaces so that bolt head load is offset to one side or cause the torque wrench to miss read. This is probably not an issue here because the AAM spacer already assures the load is offset so it may not matter. So the splits might be used to offset the uneven mounting surface or something.

Properly torqued bolts with enough threads, that don't bottom out should not need lock washers of any type for this kind of application but if AAM recommends them, then go with them, it's their design.

Chris

 

Ravi,

You should not be too concerned about the torque being inaccurate while using the steel/lock washers or the metal/rubber washers for the center bolts.
I have screwed in thousands of bolts in my lifetime, stripping some time to time in certain applications. Over time your hand becomes very sensitive to what is snug, tight, beginning to strip, holly crap I stripped it... I did NOT use a torque wrench when tighting my bolts. I was not going to go out and buy an inch/pound driver and my ft./pound driver is too powerful. So I used a very small rachet wrench and torqued the bolts with my hand at the neck of the wrench, NOT at the end with all the leverage. I tighted all the bolts until the lock washer and rubber washers compressed and were snug or tight, but no more. This is the exact reason why I used the lock washers on everything. If the bolt is snug and the lock washers are completely compressed they will not loosen. You will not need to check your bolts every week...that's why they invented the "lock washer", peace of mind


Zquicksilver
ps i thought this would help too since you asked...

 

AAM does not recommend using lock washers... nor do they include or suggest replacing all bolts with longer bolts. They give you the necessary parts for a proper install. I just went the extra mile, I call it "my" peace of mind.
You guys are starting to worry me with this whole bolt and torque issue. Maybe you should have a professional install it if your are asking questions like this...I'm not trying to be a JA, I'm just concerned you may screw up the install. I was extremely careful accounting for all bolts and washers making sure I didn't end up short, which would mean I either lost one or it dropped into the engine. I can't emphasize this enough...be very, very careful when installing!! This isn't like throwing on a CAI or strut bar, or something else.

By the way, I also bought all new bolts for the strut bar, so there would be the same amount of seated threads as OEM. Excluding the two permanent bolts with nuts.

Zquicksilver

disclaimer: I used the extra parts and pieces under my own discretion...I am NOT taking any responsibility for what you do in your install.

 

i agree with you 100% on everything you have said regarding hardware....i would especially be concerned with the strut bar. i changed mine out here because there is barely enough thread to even get the bolt started. as far as the plenum goes, you could do an install with the hardware that aam supplies with the kit and be fine.

i too do not want to take any responsibility for anyone following my advice...it was my discretion to make the changes where i felt that they were needed.

 

I dont think you give yourself enough credit zquick. AAM's directions are really cutting it slim on some of the seated threads on the front side.
I am without my car tonight because I stripped on hole 18 trying to use the AAM recommended 25mm bolt.

The good news is (not really good news, just a chance for redemption), the bolt was so short that when it stripped it only took 1.5 threads with it. Which got me thinking...
Those front four 25mm ... they must only have 2-4.5 threads seated when finger tightened and properly torqued as per the aam directions.

Regardless, I am kinda screwed (no pun intended). Im going to go and buy bolts which more closely match what you have pictured above and hope i can get a sealed fit on 18.

Wish me luck.

On 12 and 17, arent those just studs? Or can they be removed from the bottom. The AAm directions just dont specify.

~AJ
"AkA Feather Touch"

 

I installed the spacer, following instructions to the letter and have had no issues whatsoever with anything. The only thing I found out is that it was easier to install by disconnecting the intake tube. Which wasn't mentioned.

these are the instructions ---> http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/ang...structions.doc
hope these are the ones everyone is following.

A minimum of mechanical competence and common sense is required for the install. It seems there are quite a bit of tollerance variances and revisions between all the 350z models and components. If you realize a bolt is too short don't use it, DON'T FREAKING THREAD IT!!!

If the instructions look like cinese to you, dear lord, STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR!!!

 

I've stripped around 3 threads from hole #7, I've used 40mm bolt and I was fine. There was plenty of thread left.

 

i removed these and replaced them with bolts....use the size specified by zquicksilver

this has been an interesting thread to say the least....lots of great information. however, seems that we are also scaring away some peeps that are not too sure about the install.

to me, the instructions were pretty easy to follow. the only recommendation i would make is to remove the intake tube but other than that they are pretty straight forward. you could get away with the bolts supplied with the kit but some have decided to put in longer bolts in some areas.

the perfomance gain of this mod is really incredible....i am glad i went with aam because you really get the best of both worlds. for one, you get to keep the factory strut bar. secondly, i feel this spacer vs one of equal thickness all the way around is a better design. the aam spacer compensates in the area where the plenum needs more volume vs just giving the plenum more volume all the way around where you would still have unequal air going to the front

glad i also got in on the group buy price too

 

40mm did the job. Im stoked. Thanks for all the good info fellas.

~AJ