opinions on n/a setup...
Oh jeez APS TT done right will cost you 15K. Something like 7500 or so for the kit. 2500 to 3500 for the install. And then all the odds and ends you will want and need installed like the clutch and gauges and fuel return and a good tune, etc., etc...
If you can wait 3 months you can wait a little longer. And if you're going to do a stroker too you better get all the forged ****. Or am I wrong?
If you can wait 3 months you can wait a little longer. And if you're going to do a stroker too you better get all the forged ****. Or am I wrong?
Last edited by ZON; Dec 8, 2005 at 08:39 PM.
well if he goes with the AEBS stroker it comes with forged internals and choice of 8.5 or 11 or 11.5 compression...thing is thats about 8gs itself! so 15k APSTT done right + 8gs...sheesh wish I had that kind of income LOL
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Fl.
definitely would one of only a few! i cant get any info on the stroker kit(or feedback from users). It just seems top notch and everything is covered. thenjust do it right with the TT, fuel, exhaust, intake, and drivetrain and it would be a beast! i wish there was one to compare it to?? i mean i see the guys with the built motors but no strokers with the crank and everything done up.....anyways i will definitely make a huge thread about it and how it goes....just need to get ahold of some more extra cash.....in other words need to play some more poker lol. just working it will take me about 3 months to save up enough for everything.....i might order the TT kit soon....but if i get lucky and win some money here soon it could be next month im up and running. well wish me luck itll just suck being stock for a while o well....
Just to let you know the set up that I suggestted, minus the test pipes and headers is the exact same as on my car and I put 273rwhp down after shariff tuned the EU at CPRace. So you can quess that when i have test pipes, headers and new tune that I should be over 300rwhp with stock internals(NO CAMS)
Originally Posted by 04evo2
i ran a 13.3 @104mph in my old z on dr's....im shootin for 12.9 in this one(no cams)
Watch th evideo in my in car link....Id be happy to see another Z with bolt-ons trapping 106/107mph havent seen any others. Many @ 104-105 range.
Originally Posted by zon
^ I think by that time he will have his ST kit installed. Yet another taken by the the FI demon.
Yesterday 05:12 PM
Yesterday 05:12 PM
Originally Posted by danimaldaisy
Hey alberto what's happinin.
I'm the one who PMed you about the powershifting and asked you for a little advice.
Well I kinda didn't want to swap out the stock cats and had to find an alternative.
And i really didn't think headers would get me anything. It was kind of a shot in the dark if you know what i mean.
all i had on the car before the headers was a drop in K&N.
And I really did feel those headers. It was a noticable difference.
It could possibly be that I had the worst set of stock headers on the entire planet earth.
i did get gains from them.
And as for other combinations with the headers I am unsure.
just wondering about you're comments on the headers.
Hey alberto if you had 7k to spend what would you spend it on assuming you had a base model???
I'm the one who PMed you about the powershifting and asked you for a little advice.
Well I kinda didn't want to swap out the stock cats and had to find an alternative.
And i really didn't think headers would get me anything. It was kind of a shot in the dark if you know what i mean.
all i had on the car before the headers was a drop in K&N.
And I really did feel those headers. It was a noticable difference.
It could possibly be that I had the worst set of stock headers on the entire planet earth.
i did get gains from them.
And as for other combinations with the headers I am unsure.
just wondering about you're comments on the headers.
Hey alberto if you had 7k to spend what would you spend it on assuming you had a base model???
Regarding the $7000 question, Id copy my mods list for about $2000, add a bored TB which is a few hundred, spend $1700 on a nice set of coilovers-or well under $1000 for springs/shocks, do an LSD, and a clutch/fw. Then with the rest of the money, buy some nice rims/tires. You would have a great overall Z, capable of 12's in the 1/4(with DR's or slicks), that handles great, and can easily smoke most any NA Z and weaksauce Stillen s/c Z's-if you can drive. And it would be reliable to boot
Originally Posted by G I Love My Car
Just to let you know the set up that I suggestted, minus the test pipes and headers is the exact same as on my car and I put 273rwhp down after shariff tuned the EU at CPRace. So you can quess that when i have test pipes, headers and new tune that I should be over 300rwhp with stock internals(NO CAMS)
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Inland Empire
No i did not do a baseline run, sorry.
when I do dyno it(11 miles away, and 3 pulls) I won't just post the best one, I'll post all 3 ok.
The dyno will reflect K@N, headers, y pipe, and plenum spacer.
I didn't feel any loss of torque, but at low rpm it seems to breath easier, but its all under2-2500rpm. which is nothing because nobody launches at a low rpm like that anyway.
Since you are knocking on 12's anyway, why don't you get some headers.
I see your point in not getting them since you have test pipes, but I really Think you can get a good gain from them. at least enough to get into the 12's
also what about the final gearing mod????
I know you would have to learn how to hook up again, but it shouldnt take that long.
I'm assuming you're exhaust comes with a y pipe.
And the final touches could be cams.
I chose headers with equal length tubing, but half of them out there do not have equal length tubing(I hope those companies did there homework so that the exhaust gasses don't colide with each other as they reach the collector in the header)
what do you think??
I found this on the net and wanted to know if you knew more about it
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ine&prodid=922
it's a NISMO VTC Pulley.
Thanks.
when I do dyno it(11 miles away, and 3 pulls) I won't just post the best one, I'll post all 3 ok.
The dyno will reflect K@N, headers, y pipe, and plenum spacer.
I didn't feel any loss of torque, but at low rpm it seems to breath easier, but its all under2-2500rpm. which is nothing because nobody launches at a low rpm like that anyway.
Since you are knocking on 12's anyway, why don't you get some headers.
I see your point in not getting them since you have test pipes, but I really Think you can get a good gain from them. at least enough to get into the 12's
also what about the final gearing mod????
I know you would have to learn how to hook up again, but it shouldnt take that long.
I'm assuming you're exhaust comes with a y pipe.
And the final touches could be cams.
I chose headers with equal length tubing, but half of them out there do not have equal length tubing(I hope those companies did there homework so that the exhaust gasses don't colide with each other as they reach the collector in the header)
what do you think??
I found this on the net and wanted to know if you knew more about it
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ine&prodid=922
it's a NISMO VTC Pulley.
Thanks.
Actually I did not have the clutch or flywheel when we tuned the car, It was done at CPRace on a Dynonamics Dyno, which I believe is a load bearing dyno. The 1 thing that I did forget to add was a kjr pulley also. And yes my dyno was 273rwhp
I am going FI but not until I get some dyno's & my full NA setup built. I would love to have one of the fastest NA Z's in the 1/4. But all the strips around here are at 2000FT and unkept. I might have to make the trip down to englishtown.
dont let these guys make you think you should go FI with $7k to spend. you will need alot more than that if you factor in install, tuning, and problems that might (probably will) arise. if you have $10k to spend i'd say FI might be good. you also have to look at the reliability of FI vs NA. ther eis no comparison. NA is more reliable. period. even with a tune you still run risk.
staying NA is not bad. you can easily get close to 300whp if you pick and choose the right parts. dont forget that wheels and tires will eat money, too
staying NA is not bad. you can easily get close to 300whp if you pick and choose the right parts. dont forget that wheels and tires will eat money, too
yeah you'll wanna do FI the right way if you do it. Doing it cheap is potentially asking for problems. NA parts aren't as exotic or glamorous or have the dyno bragging rights, but your car will handle better and probably have way bettdr traction.
FI isn't that great without traction.
If you've ever played any racing video games - like GT4 or Forza motorsports that let you mod cars, you'll know what I mean if you go big power and don't have enough money for the other stuff needed to support that much power
FI isn't that great without traction.
If you've ever played any racing video games - like GT4 or Forza motorsports that let you mod cars, you'll know what I mean if you go big power and don't have enough money for the other stuff needed to support that much power
Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah you'll wanna do FI the right way if you do it. Doing it cheap is potentially asking for problems. NA parts aren't as exotic or glamorous or have the dyno bragging rights, but your car will handle better and probably have way bettdr traction.
FI isn't that great without traction.
If you've ever played any racing video games - like GT4 or Forza motorsports that let you mod cars, you'll know what I mean if you go big power and don't have enough money for the other stuff needed to support that much power
FI isn't that great without traction.
If you've ever played any racing video games - like GT4 or Forza motorsports that let you mod cars, you'll know what I mean if you go big power and don't have enough money for the other stuff needed to support that much power
Originally Posted by sentry65
hehe nah sorry man, I just mess around with cars with it - helps get rid of some of that car craze itch
Unfotunalty to compete you have to run a CRX SiR lol
I installed TS non-equal length headers on my car and found very little HP improvement.
A buddy of mine did the same with DC headers and found the exact same results.
Maybe others can do better but I havn't personally dynod it. I'll do some header exploration/development myself to see what potential may or may not be there.
A buddy of mine did the same with DC headers and found the exact same results.
Maybe others can do better but I havn't personally dynod it. I'll do some header exploration/development myself to see what potential may or may not be there.