YEp thats right, i didnt remove the bumper for either one, the intake was an easy install, the passenger side side marker was a bit tricky, but doable with a litttle thought and some special tools. I used a screw driver "snake" to get to the top screw. Ill post pics a little later

 

Was there a noticeable difference after installing the Injen? I am still debating if the money spent equals enough horse power gained.....

 

The sound difference is not very big at all, i do notice a little more acceleration. and the RPMs dont drop as quickly between shifts. Its a must to disconnect the battery before doing this and resetting ECU to get the best gains from it. Ill have some dynos hopefully soon

 

I was told that there was no need to reset the ECU. Just drive around for about 15 minutes in a range of RPMs and the ECU will learn and adjust.

 

youll get more benefit from the mod if you reset the ECU, and you disconnect the MAP sensor with the battery connected it can cause a CEL to come on.

 

and a pics of the clear corners

Thanks to bhobson333 and the 2 guys from the local Z club for the help

 

actually the proper way to do a reset after a mod is to disconnect the battery or the fuse. restart the car and let it idle for about 10 mins or so and you are set.

 

or how about:

Install mod-----Start car-----drive car-----enjoy extra power

come on guys, this resetting the ECU stuff is all BS.

I've NEVER reset the ECU after a mod in ANY car I've owned, one other being a Nissan, and I always got the gains that I was supposed to get. I even installed a part and went straight to the track, and ran GREAT times.

At WOT the MAF senses the amount of air that enters the engine, and by this reading it puts the ECU into a PERMANTLY pre-determined A/F program for the amount of air that is sensed. By this it determines the amount of fuel that should be despensed. Air+fuel+spark=POWER. EXTRA air+EXTRA fuel+spark=MORE power.

The only time the ECU varies anything or "learns" is during partial throttle and cruising. During this time the ECU goes on O2 sensor readings to determine the amount of fuel that it should give the motor.

 

word..

 

 

WOW..that looks really good...

 

for those of you who are worried about hydrolock i see the perfect spot for a bypass valve. the 2nd piece of tubing from the top could be take out and replaced by it. just FYI

 

im not worried about it, unless you submerge your car youre not going to hyrdolock it. I had a CAI on my venge that was 2" from the grond and drove it a few times for HOURS in HOORID NC rainstorms and never a problem

 

same here and my crx currently is about 1inch off the ground. never had a problem but for those who are paranoid i was letting them know.

 

I have an automatic, will this still work just as good. I saw on one website that they only were refering to manual transmissions. Should I wait for the AEM that has a bypass valve that you add?

 

It all depends on what year your car is or was? all 02-& up are classified as OBD "III"
You will see a very good increase w/ the battery being disconnected for up to 30mins then driving instead of just hooking it up.Untill the ECU relearns all its Factory settings is where you will see the gains!Once it has relearned settings it will still show somthing but not as much as w/ a Upgrade or sort of "weird" mode!

RSX-S is the same exact way!
All mods Should see a Large increase once the ECu upgrade is released--
Off topic but heres an example:

HOndata just released a "Flash" upgrade for the RSX-S and they have been seeing Huge gains from bolt ons,more so then before and its a 2.0 liter--Stock RSX-S runs anywhere from(depending on driver & conditions)15.1-to 14-7's or 8's

W/ Hondata flash program and say a INjen SRI they are hittin 14-6's-14.4's w/ no sweat!

The 350Z needs this ohh sooo bad,.and once it is released,..it will be the ****,..we're talking a 3.5liter vs. 2.0 and we'll see a hell of a lot more gains from a little ol' Pop charger or INjen CAI
So FI will own all!
This comming from a modded RSX-S owner! I been through this ECU **** already!

 

Posted the same as Eric1h did a couple of weeks ago. I did the Injen CAI install without removing the front bumper as well. You can even remove the fresh air intake adaptor as well instead of squeezing Injen's intake hose through it. All of it is easy....

Don't know about the ECU stuff.... As soon as I got mine bolted together, drove it around at varying levels of HP and conditions. The low end torque is amazing.... As Eric1h stated, it seems to hold HP longer in gear shifts - almost like the old half-gear set ups we used to use on our old Detroit street rods.

Not arguing the benefit of disconnecting the battery or not - but I certainly noticed the power gains. As for sound, not a whole lot more - much more 'throaty-er'. Not a coffe-can sound, much deeper.... Heck, even noticed a gain on MPG

Bottomline - if you take your time, a DIY'er can install an Injen CAI without the fear of the effort in removing the front bumper and enjoy ALL the gains of a quality CAI.

 

the CAI was EASY to do without removing the bumper, it was the clear side markers that were a real PITA!!

 

Can someone Please email the instructions for doing this without removing the bumper at getmywebmail@yahoo.com??

Please?

As for the ECU, I will be resetting it.

At Sac Raceway they reset ECU's during runs (15 minutes) and my partner and sometimes driver builds race engines. On the LS1 F-Bods he pulls 2 fuses to reset.

I lost .5 with a Granetelli MAF, he reset the ECU and put back the stock descreened MAF (while we were back in line) and I regained the exact .5!

There was no time to "relearn", both will work but resetting is quicker, that's my 2 cents with real world proof.

P.S. Email me instructions?

Or a link or anything? I want mine on to post pics here and Dyno charts!

Thanks!!

 

3 questions...


- Where did you get the new lenses, how much?

- Are they actuallu "clear"? They honestly look like a silverish lens.

- Do you have any pics of installing showing how to do it w/o removing the bumper?