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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Default cat/test pipe install

any DIY info on Test Pipes? Mine didn't come with gaskets or sealant.. should I use an extension and gets the bolts out from the top? I want it to be painless and short.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 10:43 AM
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always good idea to use new gasket.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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a. For a quality job use new gaskets. The damn things are outrageous from Nissan: about $40/4.
b. You can reach the exhaust manifold - test pipe connection from under the car (see photo above).
c. Remove oxygen sensors from OEM catalytic converters after the catelitic converter is off the car. There is a special socket which allows you to do this without crushing the wire.
d. Liberal use of penetrating spray
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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when you take off your O2 sensor, go easy on them. They are EXPENSIVE to replace ($140/EACH)
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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e. Throw away several of the supports for the OEM catelitic converters. Most likely they will not fit.


f. Have a big rubber hammer handy in case things get stubborn.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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thanks for the inputs.. will help a lot!
should I wait til I get my exhaust? I thought it'll take less than an hour..but seems like it'll be more.. anwhere cheaper for the gaskets?


also, what is a pentrating spray?
what is the special tool that I need for the o2 sensor?
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:30 PM
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wait for your exhaust then do it all together.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cannysage
thanks for the inputs.. will help a lot!
should I wait til I get my exhaust? I thought it'll take less than an hour..but seems like it'll be more.. anwhere cheaper for the gaskets?


also, what is a pentrating spray?
what is the special tool that I need for the o2 sensor?
Penetrating spray like Liquid Wrench. It breaks-down corrosion.


A open end wrench may work, but a socket such as the one above will get you some serious torque.

Last edited by davidv; Apr 7, 2006 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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7/8" wrench is all that is needed to remove an o2 sensor
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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Est. Time to do it yourself?
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Zivman
7/8" wrench is all that is needed to remove an o2 sensor
yeah I might suggest just using a crescent wrench as opposed to getting an O2 sensor wrench. I bought one and it didn't really help because the cut out for the wire kept flexing and allowing it to slip.

as for the time estimate, a shop with a lift and air tools would be able to do it in maybe 20 min. but if your doing this in the driveway with a friend (which you will need) then I'd say a couple hrs (if its your first time). just make sure to take your time and make sure everything fits right, nothing rubs and you torque to the proper specs otherwise you could end up with leaks, rattling or a cracked pipe.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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Thats what im talking about! This is really helpful. thanks a bunch

G
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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I have 18k on my car. any idea about the condition of the stock gaskets? I'm going to get new ones, but was just curious. I can I get correct torque specs without airtools? I'm pretty precise in all my installs. exhaust system would be a piece of cake, as long as fitment is good. I've ordered exhaust and will be installing everything this weekend.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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What year is your car? Did you buy the non-foulers for the the O2 sensors so the CEL doesn't come on (supposedly 2004.5+ model cars have this problem).

I bought the non-foulers just in case, but haven't done the install yet. I should hopefully be doing this on Friday.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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spray liquid wrench (or somehting similar) the night before...I did that and all of the nuts came off easy.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 350Track
What year is your car? Did you buy the non-foulers for the the O2 sensors so the CEL doesn't come on (supposedly 2004.5+ model cars have this problem).

I bought the non-foulers just in case, but haven't done the install yet. I should hopefully be doing this on Friday.
resonated tp won't throw a cel.. my tp didn't even come with any gaskets.. wth..
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dave079
I would definately suggest a couple of 20" extensions to get the bolts that connect to the top of the header from the top of the engine bay. You will save yourself a lot of time, busted knuckles, and swearing.
+2. it's a pita removing all the bolts from working underneath the engine bay.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:36 PM
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Out of curiosity, do you guys use high-temp anti-seize on the bolts when you work on the exhaust?
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:07 AM
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wd40 on all nuts n bolts
get the top bolts from the engine bay. its a bzitch otherwise.
i used a crescent wrench on the sensors without problems.
loctite prolly not a bad idea.
i used the old gaskets and had no problems.
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