Strup test pipe installed.
Just had the Strupp test pipe installed. The initial sound was very nice, but as the RPM rose, it got kind of raspy. I'm not sure if its normal or what not. the test drive impression was definitely well worth doing. It felt some lower end was lost, but top end was pretty impressive only after 4000 rpm. It kept on pulling through redline. Not sure what the HP increase is, but definitely noticeable. John from Exact motorsport told me to reset the battery because it might run a bit rich after the install. So i did what he told me, and wow, defintely sounded a bit different, and the car felt a bit stronger. Quality of the test pipe was top notch. Its a must for those who want na power.
Photos would be nice but...
Test pipes are a proven performance bolt-on. I’m sure that you looked at the OEM catalytic converters OFF the car. Its a wonder that any exhaust gets through them.
Test pipes are a proven performance bolt-on. I’m sure that you looked at the OEM catalytic converters OFF the car. Its a wonder that any exhaust gets through them.
taking the bolts off the cats is just rediculous not to mention not having the proper tools. im gonna try again this weekend. when you do something like this, you have to reset the ecu?? if so, how do you reset it??
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reset the ECU to learn the testpipe's increase flow. The car ran a bit sluggish before the ECU reset. After the reset, the car ran so much better and the power was more noticeable.
The rasp is normal with those test pipes. It only happens at around 3500 till 4500, and after that the engine really takes over. I know what you mean by the huge power boost after 4000 rpm. It feels like VTEC, and ironically the power is felt as soon as rasp starts.
Is it also normal to have exhaust fumes inside the cabin with the ac drawing air from outside? I can smell the fumes when it is drawing air from outside. But as soon as i have the air set to recirculate, the fumes stopped. Do i have a leak? I also noticde water drops from one of the connecting point of the exhaust at the rear.
Originally Posted by Changvi
You can reset your ECU by simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and wait for about a minute or so, then reconnect the battery.
Need to be disconnected for 24 hours, my friend, not a minute or so... IMO, with test pipes, your better off with a reflash or piggyback...
ECU Gas Pedal Reset Procedure:
1. Turn ignition switch to on.
2. Wait 3 seconds
3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds.
4. Wait 7-10 seconds
5. Fully depress accelerator pedal for approx. 10 seconds. The SES light will start to blink quickly indicating diagnostic test mode has started.
6. Release accel. pedal and wait 5-10 seconds.
7. Fully depress the accel. pedal for 10 seconds. The SES light will change to blinking slowly, indicating erasing ECU memory.
8. Release accel. pedal and turn ignition switch to off.
9. Restart the engine. The ECU has been reset.
The above is how you reset the ECU without disconnecting battery for 24 hours. Timing is key, and if by step 5 the SES doesn’t blink, your timing is off so start again. Just remove the key for 10 seconds and try again.
1. Turn ignition switch to on.
2. Wait 3 seconds
3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds.
4. Wait 7-10 seconds
5. Fully depress accelerator pedal for approx. 10 seconds. The SES light will start to blink quickly indicating diagnostic test mode has started.
6. Release accel. pedal and wait 5-10 seconds.
7. Fully depress the accel. pedal for 10 seconds. The SES light will change to blinking slowly, indicating erasing ECU memory.
8. Release accel. pedal and turn ignition switch to off.
9. Restart the engine. The ECU has been reset.
The above is how you reset the ECU without disconnecting battery for 24 hours. Timing is key, and if by step 5 the SES doesn’t blink, your timing is off so start again. Just remove the key for 10 seconds and try again.
i just had Apexi afcII installed instead of reflash. I had it set at 8% lean because i'm running a bit rich. The car felt a lot stronger, and the acceleration was quicker. Some people have said that it doesn't really do anything, but i don't think thats entirely true. AFCII is well worth the investment if it is tuned and programmed correctly. I'm going have my car dynoed and adjust the afc after. I'll keep you guys up to date.
well, actually with test pipes, the smell of ur exhaust will increase and the car will smell more often. Depending on how bad the smell is really, you could have a leak, but often, most people who had installed their test pipes mentioned bad smell of fumes.



