stupid cold airs....for the last time
yes ive searched and researched about cold airs vs. pop chargers...but i still dont understand people on here saying that pop chargers give you more power....wouldn't it be more logical that you can more power through colder air from the front bumper vs. hot air from the engine just like every car? theres never been a straight forward answer....and for those who say that pop or stock air box gives you cold air, where does the cold air come from, the little slit right below the hood? I've had cold airs in other cars and they were nothing but gains....dont understand y everyone went pop?
I screws up the throttle response with the cold air...I think it's too long or something. You get a ton of cold air with the pop charger bc if you look straight down it's all open and there are little vents where the fresh air and rush right up through.
Air is hot even if its from the bumper, people really think its cold air its not, its slightly cooler air than underhood. Now to put it simply try this and post your results.
Imagine you have 2 cups of water, and 2 straws. One is LONG say 12" the other is short say 4". Both are the same diameter, now if you could suck the water out until the cup is dry which one do you think would win? Same with the intakes IMO, and on my car Pop-charger proved 10whp better than an AEM and a Crawford plenum. Case dismissed...
Imagine you have 2 cups of water, and 2 straws. One is LONG say 12" the other is short say 4". Both are the same diameter, now if you could suck the water out until the cup is dry which one do you think would win? Same with the intakes IMO, and on my car Pop-charger proved 10whp better than an AEM and a Crawford plenum. Case dismissed...
I went with the PC, more because performance from any intake is minimal on these cars, so why pay more.
Regarding cold air with PC or stock, I won't say it's cold but it ain't bad. I've monitored intake temp with an ODBII tool and see less then 10 degrees over ambient when moving, but it climbs much higher at long stops. I don't know where the thermistor is, but a lot of that 10 degrees from engine heat soak and would be seen with a CAI as well, but can't say for sure.
Regarding cold air with PC or stock, I won't say it's cold but it ain't bad. I've monitored intake temp with an ODBII tool and see less then 10 degrees over ambient when moving, but it climbs much higher at long stops. I don't know where the thermistor is, but a lot of that 10 degrees from engine heat soak and would be seen with a CAI as well, but can't say for sure.
The air moves through the intake tube pretty quickly so it doesn't get much of a chance to heat up. It probably heats more in the plenum and intake manifold than anywhere else.
As mikead_99 pointed out, the temperature rise of the intake air is not that much. I measured it to only be about 5ºF at highway speeds. BTW - the temperature sensor is part of the MAF assembly.
As mikead_99 pointed out, the temperature rise of the intake air is not that much. I measured it to only be about 5ºF at highway speeds. BTW - the temperature sensor is part of the MAF assembly.
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I pull cold air from behind the grill. The problem is that it is pulled through a hot metal tube.
Also consider the problem of dyno testing long ram: the car is stationary with no ram effect.
Also consider the problem of dyno testing long ram: the car is stationary with no ram effect.
When I had a Z.. I made more than 10whp with my AEM intake, I thought it was the s*** till one day in the rain
I had to drive slow if I wanted to keep moving. I installed the bypass valve.. and showed 8-9whp gains.. so its still not bad for an intake, even though I would suggest just droping in a K&N Filter.
I had to drive slow if I wanted to keep moving. I installed the bypass valve.. and showed 8-9whp gains.. so its still not bad for an intake, even though I would suggest just droping in a K&N Filter.
Sadly, this wont be the last time for "stupid cold airs".
If you get the Popcharger, make sure you don't run the car up to 100 and drop it in to neutral (this should not be done in any case, regardless of what intake you choose but), it seems people do it anyway and Zs with Popchargers tend to stall.
Just so you know what to expect when it happens, all the warning lights will come on, your steering will get stiff, and you will have one shoot at the brakes while they still have vacuum, after that, they take a lot more effort than the original posters search, so make the first stab count.
Chris
If you get the Popcharger, make sure you don't run the car up to 100 and drop it in to neutral (this should not be done in any case, regardless of what intake you choose but), it seems people do it anyway and Zs with Popchargers tend to stall.
Just so you know what to expect when it happens, all the warning lights will come on, your steering will get stiff, and you will have one shoot at the brakes while they still have vacuum, after that, they take a lot more effort than the original posters search, so make the first stab count.
Chris
Originally Posted by Alberto
Imagine you have 2 cups of water, and 2 straws. One is LONG say 12" the other is short say 4". Both are the same diameter, now if you could suck the water out until the cup is dry which one do you think would win?
Are you saying that a sorter pipe flows more? Unless you can specifically site a scientific principal, I'm throwing the flag.
I'm not an engineer or anything but I can see how the shorter intake would be better for throttle response. it takes less time for air to travel the length of the shorter air intake therefore it would take less time for the fresh air to reach your engine.
just a theory.
just a theory.
i would bet the big venturi (the silver funnel shaped thing under the filter) has more to do with increases in power than the filter etc. air will flow along that smoothe curve much better than a 90 degree corner found at the filter end of most cold air intakes.
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