Wired, since we got you on here. Are the torque specs I listed correct, to your knowledge? 61 inch lbs.

 

According to the service manual, SOME of the bolts around the plenum are right around 61 inch-lbs, other bolts on the plenum are 9-10 ft-lbs. So that converts to about 108-120 inch-lbs.

I would play it safe and follow the instructions you have if they tell you to use 61 inch-lbs for everything. If you have leaks (which seems doubtful) you can double check torque specs.


Don't use any goo. Using a new gasket could make the job a bit easier, although it's generally not required. Unless the old gasket is damaged in some way.

You're not going to be creating any serious high pressure or high vacuum seals, so the original gaskets should be adequate for preventing leaks at low vacuum.

 

Thanks for the info. I might just stop by the dealership and pick up a new gasket to be on the safe side. It won't hurt.

 

IIRC they want you to step up the torque slowly...torque everything to 30, then 60, then 90 in-lbs.

*since we're on the subject of plenums...here's a preliminary shot of my modified OE plenum (it still needs a few more coats of paint and elbow grease before it's finished...I can't wait to get this installed)

 

Wow, no center bolts at all... I've never seen anybody do that before... What did you do, weld them up?

 

does the 5/16 isothermal plenum sapcer fits on the 2006 z?..wat r the pro and cons?...whatelse do i need after installing the spacer?wats the nxt mod?thanks for your help......

 

If u dont screw it up --the top perimeter Gasket is reusable ---But as a precaution ( whether new or not ) I use CRC Spray Sealant and let it tack just before the install and torque

 

I used JB weld ... I did lots of research on welding those holes, but it sounded like a big pain - 1) cast alimunim alloy is hard to weld with b/c different alloys will melt at different temps...so you need to try to match the alloys if possible. 2) since it's such a big peice of material, getting the right temp is even harder (heat is dissapated quickly)

*when it's done, I'll create a new post w/ pics through the whole process.

-Peter

 

That's a good idea too.

 

the only reason I say that is, I know if the old gasket is deformed or has any kinks, it is not the easiest thing to reinstall it...

 

I called the dealership today. None in stock. 5 business day turn around. I need it by Saturday. The local auto parts stores don't carry them either. Looks like I'll have to be real careful with the original gasket. The car has really low mileage on it. Everything should still intact.

I gotta pic up a small torque wrench too. I don't think my old one is good anymore. It's seen better days.

VO(has his fingers crossed)

 

I completed the install this weekend. Was pretty easy. Had to pick up a new Craftsman toraue wrench @ Sears on Saturday morning.
A buddy came over and we installed it in about 3hrs. Of course this included beer breaks in between.

Only difficult part I found were the little retaining clips that hold the hoses in place. Sometimes it was hard getting my hand into little crevices, inorder to remove the clips. It's not impossible, just time consuming. While I had everything off I took the time to spray some car cleaner in the throttle body and clean off some of the built up carb deposts & dirt that accumilate over time.

I had no problems with the gasket. In fact, it didn't even come off the engine block. It was a thin, hard, black metal gasket that is actually attached the the engine block with some type of metal plate...

Everything looks great. No leaks. Torqued everything to 61 inch lbs using the diagram I snatched up from another website. I torqued the bolts in three sets, like someone mentioned earlier: 20 inch, 40 inch, then 61 inch lbs.

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll post pics tomorrow.

(attached is the bolt tightening sequence)

 

glad to hear everything went well!

 

as promised...

 

nice!!! love the look w/ painted engine cover!

 

thanks
Here's the rest of the engine.