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Stalling problems with pop charger and no heat shield

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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Default Stalling problems with pop charger and no heat shield

When I bought my car it had a pop charger with no heat shield. As the weather has got warmer and I started running the ac I have been having problems with sputering and stalling when the AC is blasting.

Do you think this is do to the fan blowing air into the filter and messing up the Mass air signal?

I also thought that maybe some filter oil had hit the mass air sensor itself and could be causing the problem.

Any idea's?
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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Many ppl have this problem, it's probably the MAF sensor...I don't think it has anything to do with the heatshield. I don't know if there's a fix but try searching...
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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doh, hope this doesnt happen with mine
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 03:44 AM
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heat soak.... Install a Air duct in your bumper. Helps the short ram air dramatically and looks superb also.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:06 AM
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well unfortunatly it does it when its cold too, as long as the ac or defrost is on it will do it. I think what is happening is the fan is blowing air into th mass air meter and causing it to not read correctly. Then the computer tries and compensate and it stalls. I need to just break down and buy a new pop charger with the heat shield, or maybe I can just buy the heat shield. THat should prevent the fan from blowing air right on the filter.

I tried clocking the meter last night I guess I will find out today if that made any effect.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:09 AM
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It has been theorized (on this site) that the stalling is due to air turbulance giving the airflow sensor false or confusing readings, causing the ECU to cut fuel and a resultant stall.

It is one of the reasons I took a pass on the JWT (although it is a fine product).
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BeejZ
well unfortunatly it does it when its cold too, as long as the ac or defrost is on it will do it. I think what is happening is the fan is blowing air into th mass air meter and causing it to not read correctly. Then the computer tries and compensate and it stalls. I need to just break down and buy a new pop charger with the heat shield, or maybe I can just buy the heat shield. THat should prevent the fan from blowing air right on the filter.

I tried clocking the meter last night I guess I will find out today if that made any effect.
Just call Stillen and get their CAI. Be sure to call on a Thursday as they run "Thursday Specials." I only called on a Thur. by coincidence, but it ended up saving me some cash.

I got mine for $159 and it is trouble-free, sounds great, and when combined with the MREV2 and spacer, makes the engine run smoother and behave better than it did stock... and this is BEFORE my tune from SGP.

Stillen shipped mine the same day I ordered it.

I can't recommend this filter highly enough.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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I would clean the MAF with some CRC MAF/Electronics Cleaner, then either replace your pop-charger with a Stillen Box, or an '06 Box with a K&N Dropin. You may also need to clean the butterfly valve on the Throttle Body as it too can get gunked up. Doing a TB re-learn procedure wouldn't hurt either...

Last edited by gothchick; Jun 6, 2007 at 07:23 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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Gothchick: Thanks to you for your studies on this filter and your efforts and time in posting your conclusions. Your research and input (and Mike's/Wired 24/7) was part of the reason I chose the Stillen myself (and now that I have it installed, realize it definitely is the best logical choice and LOVE it).

Now that I've held it in my hand and inspected the engineering, seen it on my car and how natural it looks and how well it integrates, I wonder why I ever considered anything else.

Stillen owes you a commission, Gothchick. Thanks again for your help and your time contributing such useful input.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gothchick
I would clean the MAF with some CRC MAF/Electronics Cleaner, then either replace your pop-charger with a Stillen Box, or an '06 Box with a K&N Dropin. You may also need to clean the butterfly valve on the Throttle Body as it too can get gunked up. Doing a TB re-learn procedure wouldn't hurt either...

done thortle body relearn, the car only has 30k on it, the t/b looks clean. My assumption is that it has to do with turbulance do to the fan turning onto hi speed with the ac on. I think with the heat shield it would help keep that turbulance to a minimum. we will see though. I did clean the mass air sensor as well, it looked fine though.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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Anytime th A/C engages, it lowers your rpm a bit. This is completely normal. If you have a low idle already, then you might have a stalling problem. You might want to clean your MAF, and bump your idle a few hundred by using a cipher tool or going to the dealer to do a 1 time complimentary thing.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 01:29 PM
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Let us know the results of cleaning the MAF (using spray cleaner) and/or throttle body (Carburetor cleaner)

That should help...
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
Let us know the results of cleaning the MAF (using spray cleaner) and/or throttle body (Carburetor cleaner)

That should help...
I did the K&N drop-in. It ran great for like 10 miles then started spuddering and losing power. Idle sucked too. I figured it was probably excess filter oil on the MAF so I got some MAF cleaner and cleaned it off. It's ran great ever since, and my idle is back to perfect.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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I have used K&N drop-in filters for quite a while with good results. I was always afraid that the oil from the filter would get on the MAF sensor and clog it up or something. I have 16k miles on my '05 G35 coupe.

I cleaned the MAF Sensor with the CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner and it helped a great deal. My G seems a bit more responsive and it raised the idle about 100 RPM or so. This might help the OP out.

It's easy to do. The only tricky part can be getting the bolts out that hold the sensor in. Some of them are Torx bolts with a security bit in the middle of them. They look like this.



If you have these bolts, get a set of these at an Auto Store... about $10.



Spray off the MAF Sensor and let it air dry. Don't try to start the car with the sensor out... Duh... Put it back in and you're ready to go...
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